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Swirl flaps are a BMW system that has been introduced to help burn the fuel mixture in the cylinder better due to the fact that diesel engines do not have throttle valves and it is not possible to adjust the air-fuel ratio. A diesel engine without vortex valves operates between a poor and a rich fuel mixture, because the only way to regulate it is through fuel injection.

Design of the first generation swirl flaps that are made of made of metal.
 


Unfortunately, swirl flaps are responsible for countless damaged engines and costly repairs due to design errors or metal fatigue. Once damaged, the cylinder sucks them in and causes great damage.

This is how damaged valves damage the cylinder.
 


Typical swirl flaps  suction damage.
 


The vortex valves are positioned in the inlet and are controlled by vacuum (DDE 4.0) or electrically (DDE5.0 / DDE6.4) by the engine ECU.

Effects of malfunctioning valves:

  • Swirl valves are  stuck in open position: Deterioration of exhaust gas performance at lower speeds.
  • Swirl valves are stuck in closed position: Approximate power loss of 10% at high engine speeds.

How swirl flaps work:

 

Performance characteristics:

The vortex valves are in the closed position, at low engine speeds and small amounts of fuel injected (controlled by the ECU card).

They open under the following conditions:

  1. coolant temperature <14 ° C OR * fuel quantity> 24 mg OR
    2. engine speed 2250 rpm OR
    3. inlet air temperature <-5 ° C.

BMW and Pierburg have decided to produce diesel engines with metal vortex valves. The speed at which the pistons in the diesel engine operate is at least 60 rpm, so a sucked vortex valve will break and cause a number of damages inside the engine.

In most cases, one or more pistons are severely damaged, as a bonus you get valves, in some cases a head or turbocharger. And this combination with a BMW engine is like a cumulative jackpot  🙂

In 2004, BMW began work on the problem and improved the design, however, a number of owners reported ongoing problems in this area.

The solution to this problem is by removing the vortex valves and plugging, which does not affect the performance of the engine and at the same time, you can safely pass the exhaust test.

Engines:

M47 (136hp VP44 fuel pump) has no valves.

M47N common rail engine (including M47N / M47TU / M47TUD20) (150hp. Face lift model from 2001 -) has valves.

M57 engines (M57D) (525d & 187hp. 330d) cars with manual transmission do not have valves, but those with automatic have.

M57N engines (M57TUD) (525d & 330d 204hp) have vortex valves.

Ruined swirl flapss:

 

The plugs that replace the vortex valves are easy to find on the internet, but you can also find them here on our website.

Typical plugs:

Disassembly of vortex valves:

 

The vortex valves can be safely dismantled and in most cases if they are  removed properly no loss of power is felt.

Final list of models for which vortex valves are installed:

Engine: M47N/M47TU/M47TUD20

Applications:

* 110 kW (148 hp) and 330 N·m (243 lb·ft)

o E46 320d 2001-2005

o E83 X3 2.0d (up to end of 2006)

Engine: M47TU2D20

The engine was updated again in 2004 as the M47TU2D20. Still at 1995 cc, it produced more power across the range.

Applications:

* 120 kW (161 hp) and 340 N·m (251 lb·ft)

E60/E61 520d

E87 120d

E90/E91 320d

E83 X3 2.0d (end of 2006 onwards)

Engine: M57/M57D25

M57D25 was introduced in 2000.

Applications:

* 166 PS (122 kW; 164 hp) at 4000 rpm, 350 N·m (260 lb·ft) at 2000-2500 rpm with a 4750 rpm redline, models:

2000-2003 E39 525d *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY*

Engine: M57N/M57TU/M57TUD25

M57TUD25 was introduced in 2004.

Applications:

* 177 PS (130 kW; 175 hp) at 4000 rpm, 400 N·m (300 lb·ft) at 2000-2750 rpm models:

E60/E61 525d

Engine: M57/M57D30

M57D30, also called M57D29, was introduced in 1998.

Applications:

* 184 PS (135 kW; 181 hp)@4000, 390 N·m (290 lb·ft)@1750-3200 models:

E39 530d *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY*

E46 330d/330xd *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY*

* 184 PS (135 kW; 181 hp)@4000, 410 N·m (300 lb·ft)@2000-3000 models:

E38 730d *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY*

E53 X5 3.0d

* 193 PS (142 kW; 190 hp)@4000, 410 N·m (300 lb·ft)@1750-3000 models:

E38 730d

E39 530d

Engine: M57N/M57TU/M57TUD30

M57TUD30 was introduced in 2002. It originally produced 160 kW (215 hp) at 4000 rpm and 500 N·m (370 lb·ft) at 2000-2750 rpm, but was tweaked for 150 kW (201 hp) at 4000 rpm and 410 N·m (300 lb·ft) at 1500-3250 rpm for 2003 and again for 200 kW (268 hp) at 4000 rpm and 560 N·m (410 lb·ft) at 2000-2250 rpm in 2004.

Applications:

* 204 PS (150 kW; 201 hp)@4000, 410 N·m (300 lb·ft)@1500-3250 models:

E46 330d/330Cd/330xd

E83 X3 3.0d

* 218 PS (160 kW; 215 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2750 models:

E53 X5 3.0d

E60/E61 530d/530xd

E65 730d

* 272 PS (200 kW; 268 hp)@4000, 560 N·m (410 lb·ft)@2000-2250

E60/E61 535d

* 245 PS (180 kW; 242 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2250

* 286 PS (210 kW; 282 hp)@4000, 580 N·m (430 lb·ft)@2000-2250

Engine: M57TU2D30

M57TU2D30 was introduced in 2007, making its debut in the facelifted E60 and E61.

* M57TU2D30-UL: 197 PS (145 kW; 194 hp)

* M57TU2D30-OL: 235 PS (173 kW; 232 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2750

* M57TU2D30-TOP: 286 PS (210 kW; 282 hp), 580 N·m (430 lb·ft)

Applications:

* 197 PS (145 kW; 194 hp), 400 N·m (300 lb·ft) models:

E90/E91/E92 325d

E60/E61 525d/525xd

* 231 PS (170 kW; 228 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2750 models:

E65 730d

E90/E91 325d

E90/E91 330d/330xd

* 235 PS (173 kW; 232 hp) models:

E60/E61, BMW E70, BMW E71

* 286 PS (210 kW; 282 hp), 580 N·m (430 lb·ft) models:

E60/E61 535d

E70 X5 3.0sd

E71 X6 xDrive35d

E83 X3 3.0sd

E90/E91 335d

The above models are listed for information only if you want to to make sure your engine has valves installed, please contact a competent person.

Please note that the information described above is for informational purposes only and does not claim to be reliable. Mr-key.com is not responsible for any repair work you undertake that is related to the topic described in this article.

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Owning a Jaguar or Land Rover means enjoying luxury, performance, and cutting-edge technology. But like any high-tech component, your key fob isn’t immune to problems. Whether you drive a Jaguar F-PACE, a Land Rover Discovery, or any other model, a malfunctioning key fob can quickly become an inconvenience. The good news is that most key fob issues can be resolved quickly and affordably . Here’s what you need to know about the most common Jaguar and Land Rover key fob problems and how you can fix them. Your Key Fob Isn’t Responding Pressing the button without any response is one of the most common issues. If your key fob isn’t unlocking or locking your car, the most likely culprit is a dead battery. Replacing it with a high-quality CR2032 battery is often the easiest fix. However, if the problem persists, your key fob may need reprogramming, or its internal electronic components might be damaged. Checking your vehicle’s manual for reprogramming instructions or visiting a dealership can help resolve the issue. In cases of water damage or physical impact, a complete key fob replacement might be necessary. Reduced Key Fob Signal Range If you notice that you need to be much closer to your car than usual for the key fob to work, the battery is likely weakening. Replacing the battery should be your first step. Other factors, such as interference from electronic devices like smartphones or WiFi routers, may also contribute to signal issues. Storing your key away from such devices can help. If these steps don’t improve the range, internal damage to the key fob’s antenna may require a replacement shell or an upgrade to a new key fob. Unresponsive or Sticking Buttons Over time, dirt and debris can accumulate under the buttons, making them less responsive or difficult to press. Cleaning the key fob with a soft cloth and isopropyl alcohol can help restore functionality. If the buttons feel loose or fail to click, a replacement shell might be necessary. In some cases, the internal button contacts wear out, requiring a full key fob upgrade. “Smart Key Not Found” or Keyless Start Issues If you see a “Key Not Found” message when trying to start your car, the issue may be a low battery in your key fob. Holding the key fob closer to the start button can sometimes override the problem, as many Jaguar and Land Rover models have a backup proximity sensor. If the issue persists, replacing the battery or consulting your vehicle’s manual for emergency start procedures might be required. If none of these solutions work, there may be a deeper issue with the vehicle’s keyless entry system. Spare Key Fob Not Working A backup key fob that hasn’t been used for a long time may no longer work when you need it. This can happen if the battery has drained due to inactivity or if the key has lost its programming. Regularly testing your spare key can prevent surprises. Replacing the battery should be the first step, and if the key has lost its programming, a visit to a professional or dealership may be necessary to restore its functionality. When to Replace Your Key Fob If you’ve tried all these fixes and your Jaguar or Land Rover key fob is still not working, it may be time for a replacement. Internal components wear out over time, and investing in a new key fob can save you from frustrating lockouts and start failures.

How Long Does a Car Key Battery Last? Can You Use a CR2025 Instead of a CR2032?

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When was the last time you thought about the battery inside your car key? For most drivers, the answer is probably never—until the key suddenly stops working. A car key battery is a small but essential part of modern driving. It powers keyless entry, remote locking, and in many cases, keyless ignition systems. When the battery fails, it can leave you locked out of your car or stranded in inconvenient situations. Understanding how long a car key battery typically lasts and knowing when and how to replace it can save you time, money, and unnecessary frustration. In this detailed guide, you will learn how long a typical car key battery lasts, what factors shorten its life, the most common signs that your battery needs replacement, and whether you can substitute a CR2025 for a CR2032 battery in your car key fob. How Long Does a Car Key Battery Last? The average car key battery lasts between two to four years. 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How to Rescue Your Car Key After It Gets Wet: A Practical Guide

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Simple Tips to Free a Stuck Lock: What You Need to Know

Simple Tips to Free a Stuck Lock: What You Need to Know

Locks are meant to provide security, but when they seize up, they can leave you feeling frustrated and helpless. Dealing with a stuck lock is more common than you might think, and thankfully, there are affordable and effective solutions to get it working smoothly again. Whether it's a car door, trunk, or your home lock, here are some tried-and-true methods to free up a jammed lock. Why Locks Seize Up Understanding the causes behind a stuck lock can help you prevent it from happening in the future. Locks can seize up for various reasons: Dirt and Debris : Over time, dust, grime, or even small particles can accumulate inside the lock mechanism, making it harder for the internal parts to move smoothly. Rust and Corrosion : Exposure to moisture, humidity, or salty air can lead to rust buildup on metal parts within the lock, which can prevent movement. Lack of Lubrication : Locks need to be lubricated occasionally to ensure smooth operation. Without lubrication, friction increases, and the lock may eventually jam. Now, let’s look at some simple steps to tackle a seized lock. Step 1: Use Graphite Powder or Dry Lubricant The first thing to try is applying a lubricant, but be careful about what type you use. Wet or oil-based lubricants can attract dust, which eventually clogs the lock. Graphite Powder : This is one of the best options for freeing up a stuck lock. Sprinkle a small amount of graphite powder into the keyhole, insert the key, and gently move it back and forth. This spreads the graphite, reducing friction and allowing the lock components to move more freely. Dry Lubricants : These are specifically designed for locks and are ideal for situations where you want to avoid residue buildup. Spray a small amount into the lock, then insert the key and gently turn it. Pro Tip : Avoid using regular WD-40 or other oil-based products, as they may lead to a buildup over time, making the problem worse. Step 2: Try the Key with Gentle Force If lubrication alone doesn’t do the trick, the next step is to use a little gentle force with your key. Be cautious here; applying too much force could break the key inside the lock. Insert the Key : Once the lubricant has been applied, insert the key fully into the lock. Wiggle Carefully : Gently wiggle and turn the key without applying too much force. This movement may help distribute the lubricant further and gradually loosen up any stuck components. Caution : If you feel excessive resistance, don’t force the key. Forcing it can cause damage or even snap the key, which would require additional assistance to remove. Step 3: Warm Up the Lock (Especially Useful for Cold Weather) Cold temperatures can cause locks to seize due to ice or metal contraction. If you suspect the cold is the issue, warming up the lock can be effective. Use a Hair Dryer : Direct warm air onto the lock for several minutes to allow the metal to expand and the ice (if any) to melt. Heat the Key : You can also try warming the key slightly with a lighter, but exercise caution and make sure it isn’t too hot before inserting it into the lock. Safety Note : Avoid open flames directly on the lock itself, as this can damage surrounding surfaces or even warp the lock mechanism. Step 4: Use a Vinegar Solution for Corroded Locks If rust is the culprit, vinegar is a great household solution for loosening rust and corrosion in a lock. Apply Vinegar : Put a few drops of vinegar on the key, insert it into the lock, and let it sit for a minute or two. Vinegar can help dissolve light rust, making it easier to turn the key. Follow with Lubricant : After using vinegar, apply a small amount of graphite powder or dry lubricant to ensure the lock remains smooth and functional. Step 5: Work with Compressed Air to Remove Debris If dirt or debris has accumulated inside the lock, compressed air is a quick and efficient way to clear it out. Blow Out Dust : Use a can of compressed air and direct the nozzle into the keyhole. Short bursts of air can blow out dust and small debris that may be obstructing the mechanism. Follow Up : After using compressed air, it’s a good idea to add a dry lubricant to prevent any remaining dust from causing future jams. How to Prevent Lock Seizure in the Future Once you’ve successfully freed a seized lock, it’s helpful to take steps to prevent it from happening again. Here are some preventive tips: Regularly Lubricate : Use a dry lubricant or graphite powder once or twice a year, especially if you live in a humid or dusty area. Keep Locks Clean : Wipe off any visible dirt or dust around the lock mechanism. If the lock is exposed to elements (like outdoor or car locks), covering it can help keep debris and moisture out. Avoid Overusing Keys : If your key shows signs of wear, consider getting a replacement. Worn-out keys can cause more friction inside the lock, leading to jams. When to Seek Professional Help Sometimes, despite your best efforts, a lock just won’t budge. In cases where the lock is significantly damaged, heavily corroded, or if the key breaks inside, it’s best to reach out for professional assistance. A professional has specialized tools and expertise to address these issues without causing further damage. Taking Care of Your Locks A stuck lock can be an inconvenience, but by following these simple steps and using a little patience, you can often resolve the issue without professional help. Keeping locks in good condition with regular care is the key to ensuring they function smoothly for years to come.

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