Post Name

 

Swirl flaps are a BMW system that has been introduced to help burn the fuel mixture in the cylinder better due to the fact that diesel engines do not have throttle valves and it is not possible to adjust the air-fuel ratio. A diesel engine without vortex valves operates between a poor and a rich fuel mixture, because the only way to regulate it is through fuel injection.

Design of the first generation swirl flaps that are made of made of metal.
 


Unfortunately, swirl flaps are responsible for countless damaged engines and costly repairs due to design errors or metal fatigue. Once damaged, the cylinder sucks them in and causes great damage.

This is how damaged valves damage the cylinder.
 


Typical swirl flaps  suction damage.
 


The vortex valves are positioned in the inlet and are controlled by vacuum (DDE 4.0) or electrically (DDE5.0 / DDE6.4) by the engine ECU.

Effects of malfunctioning valves:

  • Swirl valves are  stuck in open position: Deterioration of exhaust gas performance at lower speeds.
  • Swirl valves are stuck in closed position: Approximate power loss of 10% at high engine speeds.

How swirl flaps work:

 

Performance characteristics:

The vortex valves are in the closed position, at low engine speeds and small amounts of fuel injected (controlled by the ECU card).

They open under the following conditions:

  1. coolant temperature <14 ° C OR * fuel quantity> 24 mg OR
    2. engine speed 2250 rpm OR
    3. inlet air temperature <-5 ° C.

BMW and Pierburg have decided to produce diesel engines with metal vortex valves. The speed at which the pistons in the diesel engine operate is at least 60 rpm, so a sucked vortex valve will break and cause a number of damages inside the engine.

In most cases, one or more pistons are severely damaged, as a bonus you get valves, in some cases a head or turbocharger. And this combination with a BMW engine is like a cumulative jackpot  🙂

In 2004, BMW began work on the problem and improved the design, however, a number of owners reported ongoing problems in this area.

The solution to this problem is by removing the vortex valves and plugging, which does not affect the performance of the engine and at the same time, you can safely pass the exhaust test.

Engines:

M47 (136hp VP44 fuel pump) has no valves.

M47N common rail engine (including M47N / M47TU / M47TUD20) (150hp. Face lift model from 2001 -) has valves.

M57 engines (M57D) (525d & 187hp. 330d) cars with manual transmission do not have valves, but those with automatic have.

M57N engines (M57TUD) (525d & 330d 204hp) have vortex valves.

Ruined swirl flapss:

 

The plugs that replace the vortex valves are easy to find on the internet, but you can also find them here on our website.

Typical plugs:

Disassembly of vortex valves:

 

The vortex valves can be safely dismantled and in most cases if they are  removed properly no loss of power is felt.

Final list of models for which vortex valves are installed:

Engine: M47N/M47TU/M47TUD20

Applications:

* 110 kW (148 hp) and 330 N·m (243 lb·ft)

o E46 320d 2001-2005

o E83 X3 2.0d (up to end of 2006)

Engine: M47TU2D20

The engine was updated again in 2004 as the M47TU2D20. Still at 1995 cc, it produced more power across the range.

Applications:

* 120 kW (161 hp) and 340 N·m (251 lb·ft)

E60/E61 520d

E87 120d

E90/E91 320d

E83 X3 2.0d (end of 2006 onwards)

Engine: M57/M57D25

M57D25 was introduced in 2000.

Applications:

* 166 PS (122 kW; 164 hp) at 4000 rpm, 350 N·m (260 lb·ft) at 2000-2500 rpm with a 4750 rpm redline, models:

2000-2003 E39 525d *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY*

Engine: M57N/M57TU/M57TUD25

M57TUD25 was introduced in 2004.

Applications:

* 177 PS (130 kW; 175 hp) at 4000 rpm, 400 N·m (300 lb·ft) at 2000-2750 rpm models:

E60/E61 525d

Engine: M57/M57D30

M57D30, also called M57D29, was introduced in 1998.

Applications:

* 184 PS (135 kW; 181 hp)@4000, 390 N·m (290 lb·ft)@1750-3200 models:

E39 530d *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY*

E46 330d/330xd *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY*

* 184 PS (135 kW; 181 hp)@4000, 410 N·m (300 lb·ft)@2000-3000 models:

E38 730d *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY*

E53 X5 3.0d

* 193 PS (142 kW; 190 hp)@4000, 410 N·m (300 lb·ft)@1750-3000 models:

E38 730d

E39 530d

Engine: M57N/M57TU/M57TUD30

M57TUD30 was introduced in 2002. It originally produced 160 kW (215 hp) at 4000 rpm and 500 N·m (370 lb·ft) at 2000-2750 rpm, but was tweaked for 150 kW (201 hp) at 4000 rpm and 410 N·m (300 lb·ft) at 1500-3250 rpm for 2003 and again for 200 kW (268 hp) at 4000 rpm and 560 N·m (410 lb·ft) at 2000-2250 rpm in 2004.

Applications:

* 204 PS (150 kW; 201 hp)@4000, 410 N·m (300 lb·ft)@1500-3250 models:

E46 330d/330Cd/330xd

E83 X3 3.0d

* 218 PS (160 kW; 215 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2750 models:

E53 X5 3.0d

E60/E61 530d/530xd

E65 730d

* 272 PS (200 kW; 268 hp)@4000, 560 N·m (410 lb·ft)@2000-2250

E60/E61 535d

* 245 PS (180 kW; 242 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2250

* 286 PS (210 kW; 282 hp)@4000, 580 N·m (430 lb·ft)@2000-2250

Engine: M57TU2D30

M57TU2D30 was introduced in 2007, making its debut in the facelifted E60 and E61.

* M57TU2D30-UL: 197 PS (145 kW; 194 hp)

* M57TU2D30-OL: 235 PS (173 kW; 232 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2750

* M57TU2D30-TOP: 286 PS (210 kW; 282 hp), 580 N·m (430 lb·ft)

Applications:

* 197 PS (145 kW; 194 hp), 400 N·m (300 lb·ft) models:

E90/E91/E92 325d

E60/E61 525d/525xd

* 231 PS (170 kW; 228 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2750 models:

E65 730d

E90/E91 325d

E90/E91 330d/330xd

* 235 PS (173 kW; 232 hp) models:

E60/E61, BMW E70, BMW E71

* 286 PS (210 kW; 282 hp), 580 N·m (430 lb·ft) models:

E60/E61 535d

E70 X5 3.0sd

E71 X6 xDrive35d

E83 X3 3.0sd

E90/E91 335d

The above models are listed for information only if you want to to make sure your engine has valves installed, please contact a competent person.

Please note that the information described above is for informational purposes only and does not claim to be reliable. Mr-key.com is not responsible for any repair work you undertake that is related to the topic described in this article.

Related Posts

Car Key Replacement: What to Do, How It Works, and When DIY Saves You Money

Car Key Replacement: What to Do, How It Works, and When DIY Saves You Money

Losing or breaking your car key can feel like a full-blown emergency. Whether your key won’t turn in the ignition, your remote suddenly stops responding, or you’ve misplaced the whole thing entirely, one thing is certain: you need a replacement—and fast. While most people assume that replacing a car key requires a trip to the dealership and a hefty bill, that’s no longer the only option. In fact, depending on your situation and car model, you may be able to handle it yourself with minimal cost and effort. Here’s what you need to know. Why Car Keys Are More Complicated Than You Think Gone are the days when a spare key meant heading to your local hardware store and getting a basic metal key cut in minutes. Today’s car keys are advanced devices that often include transponder chips, remote locking systems, and built-in immobilizers. Some even come as proximity fobs that allow push-button starting without ever taking the key out of your pocket. Because of this, replacing a lost or damaged key isn’t just about cutting a new blade—it often involves electronic programming and matching frequencies to your specific vehicle. Dealer, Locksmith, or DIY? Your Replacement Options When it comes to replacing a car key, you typically have three choices: Dealership : Offers official replacements, but often at the highest cost. Auto Locksmith : Generally more affordable and mobile, but availability varies. DIY : Ideal for shell replacements, battery swaps, and some remote keys—if you already have a functioning spare key or understand your model's programming process. If you’ve damaged your key shell or the battery has died, DIY is a surprisingly good option—especially if you’re comfortable working with small components. The Rise of DIY: Save Time, Learn Something, and Avoid Dealer Fees More and more drivers are discovering how easy it can be to fix their own car keys. Whether it’s replacing a worn key case, changing a battery, or even installing electronics into a new shell, DIY key repair is growing in popularity. To support that trend, we’ve created a full library of free video tutorials showing how to disassemble and reassemble key fobs for dozens of car models—from BMW and Audi to Peugeot, Fiat, and Toyota. These easy-to-follow guides show exactly how to change a key battery, switch a shell, or upgrade to a new case in minutes. 👉 Check out the full tutorial playlist on our YouTube channel: Mr-Key DIY Tutorials Step-by-Step: Replacing a Battery or Shell at Home Let’s say your remote still works but the case is cracked or the buttons are worn down. In that case, replacing just the outer shell is often all you need to do. Here’s a quick look at what that might involve: Carefully open the old key shell using a flat screwdriver. Remove the internal electronics and transponder chip. Insert them into your new replacement shell. Reinstall the battery or replace it with a fresh one (typically a CR2032 or CR1620). Snap everything together and test the key. If you already have a functioning key and just want a backup, some car models even allow you to program a new key yourself. Always check your owner’s manual or look up on-board programming methods by vehicle brand. Choosing the Right Key or Shell Not all replacement keys are created equal. Here’s what to consider: Chip Type : Most modern cars use a transponder chip (like ID46, PCF7946, etc.). Make sure your new key has the correct one. Blade Profile : HU83, VA2, TOY43—these are just a few examples. Match your key blade exactly. Frequency : Remote keys operate on specific frequencies (433MHz and 868MHz are most common in Europe). You can find affordable, compatible replacement shells and key fobs at reputable online stores like mr-key.com . When to Call a Pro There are still some situations where professional help is the smarter option: You’ve lost all copies of your key. Your car requires encrypted key coding with dealer-only tools. Your key has a broken or unresponsive transponder chip. In those cases, a locksmith or dealership may be necessary. Don’t Overpay—Just Be Prepared Car key replacement doesn’t have to be expensive, stressful, or time-consuming. In many cases, you can replace the shell, battery, or even the entire fob yourself—especially with a little guidance. Our Mr-Key YouTube channel is here to walk you through it. Whether you’re fixing a key today or preparing for the future, knowing your options puts you in control. And sometimes, the right tutorial is all it takes to save the day (and a lot of money).

Lost Your Roof Rack Key? Here's Exactly What to Do

Lost Your Roof Rack Key? Here's Exactly What to Do

Losing a roof rack key is more common than manufacturers like to admit. The good news: it's almost always solvable — quickly, cheaply, and without a locksmith. Here's the exact sequence to follow, from the moment you realise the key is gone. Step 1: Don't Panic — and Don't Force It The first instinct is to try to open the lock anyway. Don't. Forcing a barrel lock with the wrong tool damages the cylinder, strips the keyway, and turns a simple €8 key replacement into a €40 lock cylinder replacement. Leave the lock alone until you have the right key or professional help. Step 2: Check for the Key Code Before you do anything else, find your key code. This is the number stamped on your lock barrel, printed on your original key card, or listed in your rack documentation. Where to look: The lock face — look at the front of any lock point on your rack. The code is usually stamped directly on the metal Your original key — if you have one remaining key, the code is often stamped on the bow (the flat grip section) Paperwork — the key card or code card that came with your rack at purchase Registration confirmation — if you registered your rack online with Thule, Yakima, or Mont Blanc, the code may be on your account Found the code? You're done with the hard part. Jump to Step 5. No code visible? Continue to Step 3. Step 3: Photograph the Lock Take a clear, close-up photograph of the lock face in good light. This photo can do two things: Help a specialist identify your key — experienced suppliers can often determine the correct key from the keyway profile and any partial stamping visible in a photo Help a locksmith decode the lock — a physical locksmith can sometimes read the code from the lock face or decode it by impression Send the photo to a specialist before assuming you're stuck. Step 4: Identify Your Brand and Model If the code is genuinely unreadable, your brand and rack model narrows down the options considerably. Thule — uses N-series codes (N001–N200+), stamped on the lock barrel. If you know your N-code, the key is in stock. Yakima — uses SKS (Same Key System) codes, typically found on the lock core. Common range: SKS-101 to SKS-132+. Mont Blanc — numeric code system, on a sticker inside the lock or on the original key card. GIVI — code found on the product label or lock face. Other brands — most use ISO-standard barrel formats with numeric codes. Once you have brand + model, a specialist supplier can suggest the most likely code ranges for your rack generation and help you narrow it down. Step 5: Order the Replacement Key With your code confirmed, ordering is straightforward. What you need to provide: Brand (Thule, Yakima, Mont Blanc, GIVI, other) Exact key code (e.g. N121, SKS-115) Quantity — we recommend ordering two: one replacement and one spare From mr-key.com, keys ship to most European destinations within 2–5 business days . No locksmith. No dealer visit. No full rack replacement. Step 6: What If You Still Can't Unlock the Rack? If you have cargo on the rack that you need to remove urgently — bikes, a roof box, ski equipment — and you cannot wait for a replacement key, you have limited but real options. Option A: Call a locksmith A locksmith experienced with barrel locks can open your rack lock without damage and, in many cases, cut you a working key on the spot. This costs €50–€120 depending on location and time of day. Option B: Contact your rack manufacturer Thule and Yakima both have customer service lines. With proof of purchase or registered ownership, they may be able to supply a replacement key or lock service. Option C: Remove the lock cylinder On some rack models, the lock cylinder can be removed from the outside with the rack foot or arm partially dismantled. This requires mechanical confidence and the correct tools — consult your rack's installation manual first. Once the cylinder is out, a locksmith can decode it or you can replace it entirely. Roof Rack After the Crisis: What to Do Next Once you have access and a replacement key in hand, take 10 minutes to prevent this from happening again. Photograph your key code. Take a photo of the code stamped on your lock face. Store it in cloud storage or email it to yourself with the subject line "roof rack key code — [your rack brand]." Buy a spare key. It costs less than €10. Keep it somewhere separate from your main keyring — a drawer at home, your work locker, your other car. Register your rack. Thule and Yakima both offer product registration. Registering links your key code to your account, making future replacements instant. Label your key. If you have multiple sets of keys — car, house, garage, rack — label your rack key clearly so it's never confused and never left behind. Roof Rack Key Replacement: Brand-by-Brand Quick Reference Brand Where to Find Code Key Format Notes Thule Stamped on lock face N001–N200+ One-Key System: one code for all locks Yakima On lock core SKS-101–SKS-132+ Same Key System: one code for all locks Mont Blanc Inside lock or key card Numeric Sticker sometimes fades — check paperwork GIVI Product label or lock face Numeric Primarily motorcycle/touring racks Kamei / G3 / Farad Lock face or documentation Varies Contact supplier with photo if unsure FAQ Q: I lost both keys — can I still get a replacement? A: Yes. The key code is stamped on the lock itself, not on the key. As long as you can read the code on the lock face, you can order a replacement. If the code is unreadable, send a photo to a specialist supplier. Q: My rack is second-hand and came with no keys — what are my options? A: Check the lock face for a stamped code. If none is visible, a locksmith can decode the lock. Alternatively, order a replacement lock cylinder for your rack model — it will arrive with new keys and a new code. Q: How long will a locksmith take to open a roof rack lock? A: Most experienced locksmiths can open a barrel-style rack lock in under 10 minutes. The challenge is finding one who works on non-automotive locks — call ahead and confirm. Q: Can I drill out a roof rack lock myself? A: Technically yes, but this destroys the lock cylinder and leaves your rack unsecurable until you replace the full lock assembly. Only consider this if the cargo is time-critical and a locksmith is not available. Q: Will my insurance cover a lost roof rack key? A: Home contents or vehicle insurance sometimes covers key replacement, including accessories like rack locks. Check your policy — the cost of a specialist supplier is low, but it's worth reclaiming if covered. Q: I found a spare key in my car — how do I know if it's the right one? A: Try it carefully and gently. If it inserts smoothly and turns without force, it's the correct key. If it doesn't insert fully or requires force, stop — it's the wrong profile and forcing it risks damaging the cylinder. Q: Can I order a replacement key for an old rack that's no longer sold? A: In most cases yes. Key codes from established brands like Thule and Yakima remain in production for decades. Discontinued rack models still use the same N-series or SKS key codes. Get Your Replacement Key (Fast EU Shipping – Same-Day Dispatch) You know the code. You know the process. Don't leave it until the next trip. Visit mr-key.com to order your replacement roof rack key by brand and code. We ship to Germany, France, Italy, Greece, Netherlands, Romania, Spain, the UK, and across Europe — with tracking on every order. → Order Your Roof Rack Key at mr-key.com Also read: The Complete Guide to Roof Rack Replacement Keys | Thule Roof Rack Key Replacement: How to Find Your Code and Order the Right Key

How to Properly Maintain Your Car Keys and Lubricate Locks: A Complete Guide

How to Properly Maintain Your Car Keys and Lubricate Locks: A Complete Guide

Car keys and locks are everyday essentials that we often take for granted—until they malfunction. From ensuring the longevity of your car keys to properly lubricating locks for smooth operation, maintenance plays a vital role in avoiding inconvenience and costly repairs. In this guide, we explore how to care for your car keys and master the art of lock lubrication. Common Issues with Car Keys and How to Prevent Them Car keys are more than just tools; they’re lifelines to your vehicle. Whether you have a traditional metal key or an advanced smart key, these essential devices are prone to wear and tear. Understanding common problems and their solutions can save you time and stress. 1. Worn-Out Key Blades Over time, the metal blades of traditional car keys can become worn, making it difficult to start your car. This is especially common in keys used frequently or roughly. To prevent this, avoid using your car key for tasks like opening packages or prying objects. 2. Weak Key Fob Batteries For those with remote or smart keys, a weak battery is a common issue. A fading signal or difficulty locking/unlocking your car remotely are signs it’s time for a battery replacement. Replacing the battery every 1-2 years can help maintain consistent performance. 3. Scratched or Damaged Smart Keys Smart keys have sensitive electronics that can be damaged by rough handling or exposure to extreme temperatures. Always store your key in a protective case and keep it away from direct sunlight or freezing conditions. Pro Tip: Always have a spare key on hand. This not only saves time during emergencies but also reduces the wear on your primary key. Why Locks Need Regular Lubrication Locks are intricate mechanisms designed to provide security. However, dirt, grime, and regular use can cause them to stick or malfunction. Lubrication ensures smooth operation and prevents long-term damage. How Locks Deteriorate Locks endure constant exposure to the elements, which makes them vulnerable to dirt, dust, and moisture. Over time, these factors can lead to stiffness, making it difficult to turn the key. If left unchecked, the lock may become entirely unusable, requiring costly replacement. Choosing the Right Lock Lubricant Not all lubricants are created equal, and choosing the right one is crucial for maintaining your locks. Here are the best options: Graphite Powder This dry lubricant is a top choice for locks. It doesn’t attract dust and provides smooth operation without residue build-up. Silicone Spray Silicone-based sprays offer moisture resistance and work well for both interior and exterior locks. Avoid over-applying, as excess lubricant can attract grime. Avoid Oil-Based Lubricants Products like WD-40 may seem convenient but are not ideal for locks. They can attract dirt and worsen the problem over time. Step-by-Step Guide to Lubricating a Lock Follow these steps to keep your locks functioning flawlessly: Clean the Lock Begin by removing visible dirt and debris using a soft brush or compressed air. This ensures the lubricant can reach internal components effectively. Apply Lubricant Insert the nozzle of your lubricant into the keyhole and spray or apply a small amount. If using graphite powder, gently squeeze the bottle to distribute the powder evenly. Insert and Turn the Key Insert your key and turn it several times to distribute the lubricant throughout the lock mechanism. Test the Lock Check the lock’s operation by locking and unlocking it multiple times. If it still feels stiff, reapply a small amount of lubricant. Pro Tip: Lubricate locks every 6-12 months, or more frequently if they’re exposed to harsh weather conditions. Maintenance Tips for Long-Term Performance 1. Protect Outdoor Locks For locks exposed to the elements, such as gates or sheds, consider using a lock cover to shield them from rain and snow. Regularly inspect and lubricate these locks to prevent rust and corrosion. 2. Store Spare Keys Properly Spare keys should be kept in a safe, dry place. Avoid leaving them in areas with high humidity, as moisture can lead to rust on metal keys. 3. Address Issues Early If you notice stiffness or difficulty turning a key, address the issue immediately. Ignoring minor problems can lead to complete lock failure. The Global Perspective on Lock and Key Maintenance Different regions face unique challenges when it comes to maintaining locks and keys. In cold climates, freezing temperatures can cause locks to seize, requiring specialized de-icing sprays. In humid or coastal areas, locks are more prone to rust and may need frequent lubrication to combat corrosion. Meanwhile, digital locks are becoming increasingly popular in urban areas worldwide. These systems require their own maintenance, such as software updates and battery replacements, to ensure optimal functionality. A Little Maintenance Goes a Long Way Caring for your car keys and locks is a small investment of time that can save you from major inconveniences. By taking preventative steps like lubricating locks and protecting your keys, you can ensure their longevity and performance. Take a moment today to inspect your keys and locks. Are they in optimal condition? If not, a quick round of maintenance can make all the difference. For more insights on maintaining your everyday essentials, explore our other articles and unlock the secrets to hassle-free living.

Thule Roof Rack Key Replacement: How to Find Your Code and Order the Right Key

Thule Roof Rack Key Replacement: How to Find Your Code and Order the Right Key

Thule is the world's best-selling roof rack brand. Their key system is logical, well-documented — and still confusing if you've never dealt with it before. This guide cuts straight to what you need: how Thule's lock system works, where your code is, and how to order the right key without guesswork. How Thule's Lock System Works Thule roof racks use a barrel lock system with small flat-profile mechanical keys. There is no electronic component — the key is purely mechanical, cut to a specific profile that matches the lock cylinder. Every Thule lock is stamped with a code from their N-series range (e.g. N001, N047, N121). That code is all you need to order the correct replacement. The Thule One-Key System Thule's One-Key System (also called the Thule Lock System or TLS) lets you set all lock points on your rack to the same key code. This means one key opens every clamp, every bar end, and every accessory lock on your setup. It's a significant convenience — and it means losing that one key locks you out of everything at once. If you use the One-Key System, your single N-series code covers all your locks. Order that code and you're back in business. Where to Find Your Thule Key Code The code is always present — you just need to know where to look. 1. On the lock barrel face Look at the front of any Thule lock on your rack. The N-series code is stamped directly on the metal face of the cylinder. It typically reads: N followed by three digits (e.g. N047). 2. On your original key If you still have one working key, the code is usually stamped on the bow (the flat part you grip). 3. On the key card When Thule locks are sold new, they include a small plastic or paper key card with the code. Check your rack's original packaging or documents. 4. Via Thule's website Thule offers a code lookup service on their website for registered products. You'll need the product serial number. 5. Ask your dealer If you bought the rack from a specialist retailer, they may have a record of the code linked to your purchase. Thule N-Series: Common Codes and What They Cover Thule N-series codes run from N001 upward. Not all codes are in active use — the range was introduced progressively and some early codes are discontinued. Commonly requested codes include: N001–N030 — older Thule rack generations, still widely fitted to cars from the 2000s–2010s N031–N100 — mid-generation racks, very common on European vehicles N101–N200+ — current generation, including Thule Evo, Edge, and WingBar systems If your rack is from 2010 or later and was purchased in Europe, your code almost certainly falls in the N031–N200 range. Thule Lock Types: Are They All the Same Key? No. Thule uses more than one lock type depending on the rack system. Foot locks — secure the rack feet to the car's roof rails or gutters. These use the N-series code. Bar end locks — secure the crossbars. On newer systems these are integrated into the foot lock and share the same code. On older systems they may be separate. Accessory locks — Thule bike carriers, ski holders, and box locks can be keyed to match your rack. If they were purchased as part of a One-Key set, they share your N-code. If your rack has multiple lock types with different codes, you'll need to identify each one separately. What to Do When You Can't Find the Code The lock is still on the car and functional: A locksmith can decode the lock — either by reading the key cuts visually or by cutting a new key through impressioning. This is the fastest physical solution. The lock is damaged or the key is broken inside: You'll need a replacement lock cylinder. Order the correct Thule lock set for your rack model — it will come with two new keys and a new code card. You have a photo of the lock face: Send it to a specialist supplier like mr-key.com. Experienced teams can often identify the code from the keyway and stamping visible in a photo. Thule Key Replacement: Step by Step Locate any Thule lock on your rack Read the N-series code stamped on the lock face (e.g. N121) Check how many locks you have — do they all share the same code, or are there different codes? Order replacement keys by that exact code — one to replace the lost key, one spare Store your code — photograph it and save it somewhere permanent Thule Rack Models and Their Lock Compatibility Rack System Lock Type Code Format Thule Evo (current) Integrated T-track N-series Thule Edge Flush integrated N-series Thule WingBar Evo Bar + foot lock N-series Thule SmartRack Gutter mount N-series Thule ProBar (older) Separate bar locks N-series Thule 754 / 751 feet Classic feet N-series All current Thule lock systems use the N-series. If your rack is a Thule product from the last 20 years, the N-series code applies. How Many Keys Should You Have? Thule recommends two. One to use, one to keep somewhere safe — not on your keyring. A Thule replacement key costs under €10. A Thule lock cylinder costs €25–€40 per point. A full lock set replacement for a four-point rack with accessories can easily reach €150+. The spare key is the cheapest insurance you'll ever buy for your rack. FAQ Q: My Thule key says N047 — is that the same as just "47"? A: Yes. Some suppliers list codes without the N prefix. N047 and 047 refer to the same Thule key. Always include the N prefix when searching to avoid confusion. Q: Can I rekey my Thule locks to a different code? A: Yes, with Thule's One-Key System. You can purchase new lock cylinders set to a code of your choice and replace the existing cylinders. This is useful when buying a second-hand rack with an unknown code. Q: Will a Thule key from an old rack open a new one? A: Only if the N-series code matches. The physical code, not the age of the rack, determines compatibility. Q: I have four lock points but only two show a code — do the other two share the same code? A: On One-Key System setups, yes. All lock points are set to the same code. Read one, you know them all. Q: My key broke off inside the lock — what do I do? A: Do not force it. A locksmith can extract a broken key from a barrel lock. Once extracted, order your replacement by the code stamped on the lock face. Q: Can I order just one key or do I need to buy a pair? A: You can order a single key. We recommend ordering two — one replacement and one spare. Q: How fast can I get a replacement Thule key? A: From mr-key.com, delivery to most European countries takes 2–5 business days. Germany, France, Italy, Greece, Romania: typically 2–4 days. Order Your Thule Replacement Key (Fast EU Shipping – Same-Day Dispatch) You have the code. You know the system. There's nothing left to do but order. Visit mr-key.com and search by your Thule N-series code . We cut and ship Thule replacement keys across Europe — fast, accurate, and at a fraction of dealer prices. → Find Your Thule Key at mr-key.com Also read: The Complete Guide to Roof Rack Replacement Keys

Chat with us