Post Name

Regular lock maintenance is essential to prevent key jamming or lock failure. Proper lubrication reduces wear and tear, ensures smooth operation, and extends the lifespan of your locks. A well-lubricated lock decreases the risk of your key getting stuck or breaking inside the lock—an inconvenient and costly problem. At MR-KEY, we understand the importance of well-maintained locks and want to help you keep yours in top condition.

 

How Often Should You Lubricate Your Locks?

 

For most locks, lubricating them every three to six months is sufficient. However, locks exposed to extreme weather conditions—such as those on towbars, roof racks, or outdoor gates—require more frequent maintenance. Rain, dust, and freezing temperatures can cause internal components to stick, making it difficult to insert or turn the key. If you notice resistance when using a lock, it’s time for lubrication.

 

What Lubricant Should You Use for Locks?

 

Choosing the right lubricant is crucial for long-term lock performance. Here are the best options:

Teflon-based (PTFE) spray – Forms a protective film inside the lock, reducing friction and repelling dust buildup.

Dry silicone spray – Excellent for outdoor locks as it resists moisture without attracting dirt.

WD-40 Specialist Dry PTFE or White Lithium Grease – Unlike regular WD-40, these provide long-lasting lubrication and protection against corrosion.

Graphite powder – A great choice for older locks but should not be used if there’s oil residue inside the lock.

 

While WD-40 Multi-Use is a quick fix for stuck locks, it is primarily a cleaner rather than a long-term lubricant. If used, follow up with a dry lubricant to prevent dirt accumulation inside the lock.

 

How to Lubricate a Lock

 

If your lock is functioning properly but feels slightly stiff, follow these steps:

1. Clean the Lock – Insert and remove the key a few times to dislodge debris, wiping it clean each time.

2. Apply the Lubricant – Insert the spray straw into the keyhole and apply two short bursts of lubricant.

3. Work the Lock – Insert and turn the key multiple times to distribute the lubricant inside.

4. Wipe Excess Lubricant – Remove any residue from the key and lock exterior to prevent dirt buildup.

 

For graphite powder, follow the manufacturer’s specific instructions, as overapplication can lead to clumping inside the lock.

 

Special Care for Towbar and Roof Rack Locks

 

Locks on towbars and roof racks are exposed to harsher conditions than typical door locks. To keep them in good shape:

• Regularly inspect them for stiffness or corrosion.

• Apply dry silicone spray or PTFE lubricant for lasting protection.

• If the lock is exposed to frequent moisture, white lithium grease offers superior water resistance.

 

Lock It in: The Key to Long-Lasting Security

 

Regular lock maintenance is a small effort that prevents big problems. By keeping your locks clean and properly lubricated—especially those exposed to the elements—you can avoid costly repairs and ensure they function smoothly for years.

 

For high-quality lock maintenance products, visit MR-KEY and keep your locks in perfect working condition. A little maintenance goes a long way in ensuring security and peace of mind!

Related Posts

How to Tell If Your Car Key Needs a Battery or a Full Replacement

How to Tell If Your Car Key Needs a Battery or a Full Replacement

In an age where technology is at the core of almost every part of a vehicle, car keys are no longer simple pieces of metal. They’ve become compact, electronic tools that combine convenience with security — from remote locking systems to transponder chips and push-start capabilities. However, like any piece of technology, car keys are not immune to wear, damage, or electronic failure. And when they stop working, most drivers are left with one essential question: does my key just need a new battery, or is it time for a full replacement? This article dives deep into that very question. Understanding how to recognize the early signs of battery failure versus a complete key malfunction can save drivers from unnecessary frustration and expensive dealership visits. Whether you're dealing with a FIAT flip key, a HYUNDAI remote, or any modern fob, this guide will help you identify the issue and make an informed decision on what to do next. The Anatomy of a Modern Car Key To understand why a key might stop working, it’s helpful to know what’s actually inside it. Most modern car keys—especially those from brands like FIAT, Hyundai, Kia, Peugeot, or Volkswagen—are composed of several key components. At the core is a small lithium coin battery , typically a CR2032 or CR2025, which powers the key's remote functions. There's also a circuit board that contains the remote buttons and signal transmission systems. Some keys include a transponder chip , a tiny RFID device that communicates with your vehicle’s immobilizer system. Then there's the key blade —mechanical or flip-style—and the outer shell , which holds it all together and includes physical buttons. When something goes wrong, the issue can stem from any one of these components. But most commonly, the culprit is either a drained battery or damage to the internal electronics or casing . Early Warning Signs: Is It Just the Battery? Many car key issues start with subtle signs that most drivers overlook. The key may still work occasionally, or it might only respond when standing close to the car. These are common indicators that the battery is on its way out, but hasn’t failed completely yet. One of the first things a driver might notice is that the range of the remote decreases . You may find yourself needing to stand much closer to the vehicle than usual to lock or unlock it. In some cases, the key might require multiple button presses to get a response. If the key has a small LED light (common in many models), you might see it flicker weakly or stop lighting up altogether. These are signs that the battery still has some life, but it's not providing the power needed for consistent performance. The good news? Replacing the battery is often a quick and inexpensive fix, especially if there are no signs of physical damage or moisture exposure. How Long Does a Key Battery Last? The battery inside your key is designed to last between 2 to 3 years under regular use. Factors like frequent use, temperature changes, or prolonged storage can reduce that lifespan. If your key has never had a battery change and it's approaching that age, a weak battery is the most likely cause of any issues. Changing the battery is a simple task in most cases. Many key fobs can be gently pried open using a flathead screwdriver or a plastic tool. Inside, you’ll find the round battery, which can be swapped out for a new one. Always use a high-quality battery from a trusted brand like Panasonic or Maxell to ensure optimal performance. After inserting a fresh battery, the key should immediately start functioning normally again. If it doesn't, then the issue likely runs deeper. When It’s More Than Just the Battery So what happens if you've replaced the battery and the key still doesn't work? This is when it’s time to look at other possibilities. A complete key failure doesn’t just affect the remote functions—it can also affect the chip, the buttons, or even the mechanical components. For instance, if your car uses a push-to-start system and it no longer recognizes your key after a battery replacement, the issue may lie with the transponder chip . This chip is essential for starting the engine, and if it’s been damaged by a drop or water exposure, the car may not respond at all. Keys that have been exposed to moisture , such as rain or accidental washing, are also at high risk. Even small amounts of water can short out the internal electronics or cause corrosion on the contacts, rendering the key useless. Similarly, keys that have been dropped or stepped on can suffer internal damage even if the outer shell looks fine. Another common reason for total failure is button wear . Over time, the rubber buttons on a key can wear down or detach completely, making it difficult to send a signal to the car—even if the electronics are still working underneath. Shell Damage vs. Internal Failure It's important to distinguish between cosmetic damage and a true functional failure. A key with a cracked or broken shell may still work perfectly well, but using it daily becomes inconvenient—or risky, as it can fall apart further over time. In these cases, replacing only the key shell is often the most cost-effective solution. Shell replacement kits are available for most makes and models, including popular FIAT and Hyundai keys. They allow users to transfer the internal electronics and battery into a new casing, restoring the look and feel of the original key without needing reprogramming or electronic parts. However, if the circuit board inside the key is broken , or the transponder chip is no longer recognized by the vehicle , a complete key replacement will be necessary. This often requires purchasing a new key and having it programmed to your vehicle , either through a locksmith or via dealership-level tools. Identifying the Right Replacement Solution The path forward depends entirely on the root cause of the issue. Here’s how to decide: If your key works intermittently and shows no physical damage, start with a battery replacement . If the buttons are worn or the casing is cracked , but the electronics are fine, consider a shell replacement . If the key doesn’t respond at all , even with a new battery, and has no LED or signal , a full replacement is likely needed. If the mechanical blade is damaged , but the remote still functions, you can often just replace the key blade . Replacing just the parts you need can save time and money. Reliable sellers, like mr-key.com , offer a wide range of high-quality key shells, batteries, blades, and even full replacement keys—including options for programming and compatibility details. When your car key stops working, it’s natural to panic. But in most cases, the fix is far simpler than expected. A weak or dead battery accounts for the majority of key-related issues, and replacing it can restore full function within minutes. However, when the damage goes beyond the battery, identifying whether it’s the shell, chip, or internal electronics at fault will determine whether a full replacement is necessary. Being able to recognize the difference between a temporary battery issue and a deeper hardware failure empowers car owners to take quick, cost-effective action. With the right tools and parts—and a little guidance—almost anyone can resolve a car key issue without visiting a dealership. For a full range of replacement parts, including key shells, blades, batteries, and complete remote keys, visit mr-key.com and explore quality products that help restore your car key to like-new condition.

Top 10 Most Common Car Key Problems (And How to Fix Them)

Top 10 Most Common Car Key Problems (And How to Fix Them)

Car keys have changed dramatically in the last 20 years. What was once a simple mechanical tool has become an essential electronic device packed with functionality. From remote locking and trunk opening to push-start ignition systems and proximity sensors, today's car keys do a lot more than just turn in the ignition. However, this increased functionality also means more components that can fail—and when they do, the inconvenience can be frustrating or even immobilizing. For many drivers, key problems seem to come out of nowhere. A button stops working, the car doesn’t start, or a backup key won’t respond. Understanding the most common issues with modern car keys can help you avoid unnecessary trips to the dealership and identify quick fixes at home. Below, we’ll explore the ten most frequent car key problems, how to recognize the symptoms, and what steps to take to get your key working again—often without spending a fortune. 1. The Key Fob Has Stopped Responding One of the most common complaints drivers have is that their key fob simply stops responding. The remote may no longer lock or unlock the vehicle, the trunk button might stop working, or there may be no visible LED indicator when you press a button. In most cases, the culprit is a dead battery—something that’s inexpensive and easy to replace. Most key fobs use a CR2032 coin-cell battery, which can typically be changed with a small screwdriver or a plastic pry tool. If replacing the battery doesn’t bring the fob back to life, the issue may be with the internal electronics. Moisture, drops, and general wear over time can corrode or damage the tiny circuit board inside. In such cases, replacing the outer shell might not be enough—you may need to invest in a full replacement or transplant the electronics into a new case if only the buttons or housing are damaged. 2. The Car Doesn't Detect the Key Another increasingly common issue—especially in vehicles with push-to-start systems—is that the car doesn’t detect the key, even though it's inside the cabin or close to the sensor. You might see a warning on the dashboard such as “Key Not Detected” or “No Key Present.” This can happen due to a nearly dead battery in the fob, radio frequency interference from nearby electronics, or a fault in the key’s transponder chip. The first step is always to replace the key’s battery. If the issue persists, try holding the key closer to the start button or steering column—some vehicles have hidden backup sensors that detect the key at close range in emergencies. If none of that works, the problem could be with the chip inside the fob or the vehicle’s receiver, requiring diagnosis by a qualified locksmith or dealership technician. 3. The Key Turns in the Ignition, But Nothing Happens This issue is particularly frustrating: you insert your key into the ignition, it turns freely, but the car doesn’t respond at all. Often, this is a sign that the vehicle’s immobilizer system isn’t recognizing the key. Modern car keys contain a small RFID chip that communicates with the car’s anti-theft system. If this chip is damaged or unprogrammed, the vehicle will not start—no matter how well the mechanical part of the key works. Try using a spare key if you have one. If the backup works, you’ll know the issue lies within the primary key. If neither key works, the problem could be with the vehicle’s receiver, antenna ring, or immobilizer control unit. A professional diagnostic scan is typically needed to pinpoint the cause. 4. The Key Won’t Turn in the Door or Ignition If your key suddenly stops turning in the door or ignition cylinder, the cause may be as simple as wear and tear. Key blades—especially older ones—can become worn down over time, resulting in poor contact with the internal pins in the lock. Dirt, rust, or debris inside the lock can also prevent the key from turning, particularly if the vehicle hasn’t been manually unlocked in a while. First, try using a backup key. If it turns smoothly, your main key is likely worn. If both keys struggle, apply a non-residue contact cleaner or lock lubricant to clean out the cylinder. For long-term solutions, you may need to replace either the key blade or the ignition/door lock entirely. Don’t attempt to force the key, as this could cause the blade to bend or snap inside the lock. 5. The Buttons Feel Mushy or Stuck Physical wear is one of the most overlooked causes of key fob failure. Over time, the rubber buttons on your remote can wear down, become loose, or stop pressing properly. You might notice that only one or two buttons respond, or that they must be pressed harder than usual to work. In many cases, the outer shell has simply degraded, while the electronic board inside remains perfectly functional. The most effective fix is to replace the key shell. These replacement housings are inexpensive and widely available for most major vehicle brands. Simply open the fob, transfer the circuit board, battery, and buttons into the new shell, and your key will feel and function like new again—without any need for reprogramming. 6. Your Key Fob Got Wet Water and electronics rarely mix well, and key fobs are no exception. Whether your key was left out in the rain, fell into a puddle, or went through the washing machine, moisture can quickly short-circuit the internal components or lead to long-term corrosion. If your key gets wet, act fast. Remove the battery immediately and open the case to allow air circulation. Use desiccants such as silica gel packets to dry out the internal parts—avoid using rice, which is far less effective. If corrosion is visible, gently clean it with isopropyl alcohol and a cotton swab. If the key still doesn’t work after drying, the damage may be permanent and require replacement. 7. The Key Shell Is Cracked or Broken Keys endure daily use, pocket pressure, accidental drops, and exposure to the elements. Over time, the plastic casing of the fob can crack, split, or completely fall apart, leaving internal electronics vulnerable. Although a broken shell doesn’t necessarily mean the key is non-functional, it can make usage difficult and risky. Thankfully, key shell replacements are an easy and budget-friendly solution. You can often reuse all your original components, including the battery, buttons, and transponder chip. Replacing just the shell avoids costly reprogramming and restores your key’s durability and appearance. 8. The Key Still Doesn’t Work After Replacing the Battery Replacing a fob battery is supposed to solve the problem—but sometimes it doesn’t. If your remote remains unresponsive after a battery change, you may have installed the wrong type of battery, inserted it incorrectly, or failed to clean the contact points inside the fob. In some cases, the circuit board itself may be damaged or shorted out. Double-check that the battery type matches the original (commonly CR2032). Ensure it’s properly seated and that the metal contact tabs are clean and secure. If the problem continues, the issue likely lies with the circuit board, and the fob may need to be replaced entirely. 9. You’ve Lost Your Only Key Few things are more stressful than losing your only car key—especially if you don’t have a spare. Most modern vehicles require the key to be electronically paired with the car, so simply cutting a new blade isn’t enough. You’ll need your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN), proof of ownership, and a visit to either a dealership or a certified locksmith. Some aftermarket services can offer replacement keys that are compatible with your vehicle at a lower price than the dealership. Once the new key is cut and programmed, be sure to create and safely store a backup key to avoid being locked out in the future. 10. The Spare Key Doesn’t Work Anymore Spare keys are often kept in drawers or glove compartments for years without use. When finally needed, many drivers are surprised to find that the backup key doesn’t work. Batteries may have died, circuit boards may have degraded, or the key may have fallen out of sync with the vehicle. Start by replacing the battery. If that doesn’t work, the spare may need to be reprogrammed to the car. Keeping your spare key in a safe, climate-controlled environment and testing it occasionally is the best way to ensure it's ready when needed. Car key problems can range from mildly inconvenient to seriously disruptive—but the majority are entirely fixable, often at home and at minimal cost. Understanding the common causes behind these issues allows you to respond quickly, avoid dealership prices, and extend the life of your keys. At mr-key.com , you’ll find a wide selection of replacement key shells , batteries , blades , and complete electronic keys compatible with dozens of vehicle brands. With proper care and the right tools, you can keep your key in excellent condition and avoid ever being stranded due to a faulty fob.

What You Need To Know About BMW  Swirl Flaps and How To Solve The Problem With Them

What You Need To Know About BMW Swirl Flaps and How To Solve The Problem With Them

Swirl flaps are a BMW system that has been introduced to help burn the fuel mixture in the cylinder better due to the fact that diesel engines do not have throttle valves and it is not possible to adjust the air-fuel ratio. A diesel engine without vortex valves operates between a poor and a rich fuel mixture, because the only way to regulate it is through fuel injection. Design of the first generation swirl flaps that are made of made of metal. Unfortunately, swirl flaps are responsible for countless damaged engines and costly repairs due to design errors or metal fatigue. Once damaged, the cylinder sucks them in and causes great damage. This is how damaged valves damage the cylinder. Typical swirl flaps suction damage. The vortex valves are positioned in the inlet and are controlled by vacuum (DDE 4.0) or electrically (DDE5.0 / DDE6.4) by the engine ECU. Effects of malfunctioning valves: Swirl valves are stuck in open position: Deterioration of exhaust gas performance at lower speeds. Swirl valves are stuck in closed position: Approximate power loss of 10% at high engine speeds. How swirl flaps work: Performance characteristics: The vortex valves are in the closed position, at low engine speeds and small amounts of fuel injected (controlled by the ECU card). They open under the following conditions: coolant temperature <14 ° C OR * fuel quantity> 24 mg OR engine speed 2250 rpm OR inlet air temperature <-5 ° C BMW and Pierburg have decided to produce diesel engines with metal vortex valves. The speed at which the pistons in the diesel engine operate is at least 60 rpm, so a sucked vortex valve will break and cause a number of damages inside the engine. In most cases, one or more pistons are severely damaged, as a bonus you get valves, in some cases a head or turbocharger. And this combination with a BMW engine is like a cumulative jackpot 🙂 In 2004, BMW began work on the problem and improved the design, however, a number of owners reported ongoing problems in this area. The solution to this problem is by removing the vortex valves and plugging, which does not affect the performance of the engine and at the same time, you can safely pass the exhaust test. Engines: M47 (136hp VP44 fuel pump) has no valves. M47N common rail engine (including M47N / M47TU / M47TUD20) (150hp. Face lift model from 2001 -) has valves. M57 engines (M57D) (525d & 187hp. 330d) cars with manual transmission do not have valves, but those with automatic have. M57N engines (M57TUD) (525d & 330d 204hp) have vortex valves. Ruined swirl flaps: The plugs that replace the vortex valves are easy to find on the internet, but you can also find them here on our website. Typical plugs: Disassembly of vortex valves: The vortex valves can be safely dismantled and in most cases if they are removed properly no loss of power is felt. Final list of models for which vortex valves are installed: Engine: M47N/M47TU/M47TUD20 Applications: * 110 kW (148 hp) and 330 N·m (243 lb·ft) o E46 320d 2001-2005 o E83 X3 2.0d (up to end of 2006) Engine: M47TU2D20 The engine was updated again in 2004 as the M47TU2D20. Still at 1995 cc, it produced more power across the range. Applications: * 120 kW (161 hp) and 340 N·m (251 lb·ft) E60/E61 520d E87 120d E90/E91 320d E83 X3 2.0d (end of 2006 onwards) Engine: M57/M57D25 M57D25 was introduced in 2000. Applications: * 166 PS (122 kW; 164 hp) at 4000 rpm, 350 N·m (260 lb·ft) at 2000-2500 rpm with a 4750 rpm redline, models: 2000-2003 E39 525d *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY* Engine: M57N/M57TU/M57TUD25 M57TUD25 was introduced in 2004. Applications: * 177 PS (130 kW; 175 hp) at 4000 rpm, 400 N·m (300 lb·ft) at 2000-2750 rpm models: E60/E61 525d Engine: M57/M57D30 M57D30, also called M57D29, was introduced in 1998. Applications: * 184 PS (135 kW; 181 hp)@4000, 390 N·m (290 lb·ft)@1750-3200 models: E39 530d *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY* E46 330d/330xd *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY* * 184 PS (135 kW; 181 hp)@4000, 410 N·m (300 lb·ft)@2000-3000 models: E38 730d *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY* E53 X5 3.0d * 193 PS (142 kW; 190 hp)@4000, 410 N·m (300 lb·ft)@1750-3000 models: E38 730d E39 530d Engine: M57N/M57TU/M57TUD30 M57TUD30 was introduced in 2002. It originally produced 160 kW (215 hp) at 4000 rpm and 500 N·m (370 lb·ft) at 2000-2750 rpm, but was tweaked for 150 kW (201 hp) at 4000 rpm and 410 N·m (300 lb·ft) at 1500-3250 rpm for 2003 and again for 200 kW (268 hp) at 4000 rpm and 560 N·m (410 lb·ft) at 2000-2250 rpm in 2004. Applications: * 204 PS (150 kW; 201 hp)@4000, 410 N·m (300 lb·ft)@1500-3250 models: E46 330d/330Cd/330xd E83 X3 3.0d * 218 PS (160 kW; 215 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2750 models: E53 X5 3.0d E60/E61 530d/530xd E65 730d * 272 PS (200 kW; 268 hp)@4000, 560 N·m (410 lb·ft)@2000-2250 E60/E61 535d * 245 PS (180 kW; 242 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2250 * 286 PS (210 kW; 282 hp)@4000, 580 N·m (430 lb·ft)@2000-2250 Engine: M57TU2D30 M57TU2D30 was introduced in 2007, making its debut in the facelifted E60 and E61. * M57TU2D30-UL: 197 PS (145 kW; 194 hp) * M57TU2D30-OL: 235 PS (173 kW; 232 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2750 * M57TU2D30-TOP: 286 PS (210 kW; 282 hp), 580 N·m (430 lb·ft) Applications: * 197 PS (145 kW; 194 hp), 400 N·m (300 lb·ft) models: E90/E91/E92 325d E60/E61 525d/525xd * 231 PS (170 kW; 228 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2750 models: E65 730d E90/E91 325d E90/E91 330d/330xd * 235 PS (173 kW; 232 hp) models: E60/E61, BMW E70, BMW E71 * 286 PS (210 kW; 282 hp), 580 N·m (430 lb·ft) models: E60/E61 535d E70 X5 3.0sd E71 X6 xDrive35d E83 X3 3.0sd E90/E91 335d The above models are listed for information only if you want to to make sure your engine has valves installed, please contact a competent person. Please note that the information described above is for informational purposes only and does not claim to be reliable. Mr-key.com is not responsible for any repair work you undertake that is related to the topic described in this article.

Effortlessly Ordering Multiple Replacement Car Keys: A Step-by-Step Guide

Effortlessly Ordering Multiple Replacement Car Keys: A Step-by-Step Guide

As a car owner, managing multiple key replacements can be daunting. Fortunately, there's a streamlined method to order several keys simultaneously using a CSV file. Here's how you can simplify the process: 1. Prepare Your Key List Create a Spreadsheet: Use software like Microsoft Excel to list your key codes. Enter Details: In Column A, input each key code; in Column B, specify the quantity needed. Avoid Headers: Start directly with your data; do not include column titles. 2. Save as CSV Choose CSV Format: When saving, select 'CSV (Comma delimited)' from the 'Save as type' dropdown. Ensure Correct Format: Avoid other CSV formats to prevent compatibility issues. 3. Upload Your CSV File Access Your Account: Log into your trade account on the key replacement website. Navigate to Product Page: Find the specific key product you need. Upload CSV: Click the 'Upload a CSV' button above the key number entry field and select your file. Wait for Processing: Large files may take time to upload; remain on the page until completion. 4. Complete Your Order Add to Basket: Once uploaded, click 'Add to basket.' Proceed to Checkout: Follow the standard payment process to finalize your order. Important Considerations Separate Files for Different Keys: If ordering various key types or series, create individual CSV files for each. Trade Account Requirement: This feature is typically available to trade account holders; ensure you have the necessary access. By following these steps, you can efficiently manage bulk key replacements, saving time and ensuring accuracy.

Chat with us