Simple Tips to Free a Stuck Lock: What You Need to Know
29.10.2024
Locks are meant to provide security, but when they seize up, they can leave you feeling frustrated and helpless. Dealing with a stuck lock is more common than you might think, and thankfully, there are affordable and effective solutions to get it working smoothly again. Whether it's a car door, trunk, or your home lock, here are some tried-and-true methods to free up a jammed lock.
Why Locks Seize Up
Understanding the causes behind a stuck lock can help you prevent it from happening in the future. Locks can seize up for various reasons:
Dirt and Debris: Over time, dust, grime, or even small particles can accumulate inside the lock mechanism, making it harder for the internal parts to move smoothly.
Rust and Corrosion: Exposure to moisture, humidity, or salty air can lead to rust buildup on metal parts within the lock, which can prevent movement.
Lack of Lubrication: Locks need to be lubricated occasionally to ensure smooth operation. Without lubrication, friction increases, and the lock may eventually jam.
Now, let’s look at some simple steps to tackle a seized lock.
Step 1: Use Graphite Powder or Dry Lubricant
The first thing to try is applying a lubricant, but be careful about what type you use. Wet or oil-based lubricants can attract dust, which eventually clogs the lock.
Graphite Powder: This is one of the best options for freeing up a stuck lock. Sprinkle a small amount of graphite powder into the keyhole, insert the key, and gently move it back and forth. This spreads the graphite, reducing friction and allowing the lock components to move more freely.
Dry Lubricants: These are specifically designed for locks and are ideal for situations where you want to avoid residue buildup. Spray a small amount into the lock, then insert the key and gently turn it.
Pro Tip: Avoid using regular WD-40 or other oil-based products, as they may lead to a buildup over time, making the problem worse.
Step 2: Try the Key with Gentle Force
If lubrication alone doesn’t do the trick, the next step is to use a little gentle force with your key. Be cautious here; applying too much force could break the key inside the lock.
Insert the Key: Once the lubricant has been applied, insert the key fully into the lock.
Wiggle Carefully: Gently wiggle and turn the key without applying too much force. This movement may help distribute the lubricant further and gradually loosen up any stuck components.
Caution: If you feel excessive resistance, don’t force the key. Forcing it can cause damage or even snap the key, which would require additional assistance to remove.
Step 3: Warm Up the Lock (Especially Useful for Cold Weather)
Cold temperatures can cause locks to seize due to ice or metal contraction. If you suspect the cold is the issue, warming up the lock can be effective.
Use a Hair Dryer: Direct warm air onto the lock for several minutes to allow the metal to expand and the ice (if any) to melt.
Heat the Key: You can also try warming the key slightly with a lighter, but exercise caution and make sure it isn’t too hot before inserting it into the lock.
Safety Note: Avoid open flames directly on the lock itself, as this can damage surrounding surfaces or even warp the lock mechanism.
Step 4: Use a Vinegar Solution for Corroded Locks
If rust is the culprit, vinegar is a great household solution for loosening rust and corrosion in a lock.
Apply Vinegar: Put a few drops of vinegar on the key, insert it into the lock, and let it sit for a minute or two. Vinegar can help dissolve light rust, making it easier to turn the key.
Follow with Lubricant: After using vinegar, apply a small amount of graphite powder or dry lubricant to ensure the lock remains smooth and functional.
Step 5: Work with Compressed Air to Remove Debris
If dirt or debris has accumulated inside the lock, compressed air is a quick and efficient way to clear it out.
Blow Out Dust: Use a can of compressed air and direct the nozzle into the keyhole. Short bursts of air can blow out dust and small debris that may be obstructing the mechanism.
Follow Up: After using compressed air, it’s a good idea to add a dry lubricant to prevent any remaining dust from causing future jams.
How to Prevent Lock Seizure in the Future
Once you’ve successfully freed a seized lock, it’s helpful to take steps to prevent it from happening again. Here are some preventive tips:
Regularly Lubricate: Use a dry lubricant or graphite powder once or twice a year, especially if you live in a humid or dusty area.
Keep Locks Clean: Wipe off any visible dirt or dust around the lock mechanism. If the lock is exposed to elements (like outdoor or car locks), covering it can help keep debris and moisture out.
Avoid Overusing Keys: If your key shows signs of wear, consider getting a replacement. Worn-out keys can cause more friction inside the lock, leading to jams.
When to Seek Professional Help
Sometimes, despite your best efforts, a lock just won’t budge. In cases where the lock is significantly damaged, heavily corroded, or if the key breaks inside, it’s best to reach out for professional assistance. A professional has specialized tools and expertise to address these issues without causing further damage.
Taking Care of Your Locks
A stuck lock can be an inconvenience, but by following these simple steps and using a little patience, you can often resolve the issue without professional help. Keeping locks in good condition with regular care is the key to ensuring they function smoothly for years to come.
Modern car keys have come a long way from the traditional cut metal blades of the past. What was once a simple tool for turning an ignition has evolved into a smart, encrypted device with layers of built-in security. Among the most critical components in today’s car keys is the transponder chip — a small but vital element that could be the reason your car doesn’t start after replacing your key shell. If you've recently changed the shell or casing of your key and suddenly find that your car won’t start, you're not alone. This is one of the most common (and frustrating) issues car owners face when performing a key repair or upgrade. So let’s break down what’s really happening — and how you can fix it. What Is a Transponder and What Does It Do? A transponder chip (short for “transmitter-responder”) is a small electronic component embedded in your car key. Its purpose is to communicate with your vehicle’s immobilizer system to authorize ignition. Here’s how it works: When you insert your key and turn the ignition, your car sends out a radio signal. The transponder chip in your key responds with a coded signal unique to your car. If the code is correct, the car’s computer disables the immobilizer and allows the engine to start. If the chip is missing, broken, or the code doesn’t match — the engine won’t start, even if the key blade physically turns. This system is an anti-theft measure, and it's present in most vehicles manufactured after the late 1990s. Without a functional transponder, your key may unlock the doors but it will not allow the car to start. This ensures that even if someone manages to copy the physical blade of your key, they still can’t steal your car. Why Your Key Might Not Work After Shell Replacement Changing your key shell (also called a case or housing) can seem like a simple cosmetic repair — but it’s easy to overlook the importance of transferring the transponder chip during the process. If your key no longer starts the car after a shell replacement, the most likely reason is: You forgot to move the transponder chip into the new shell. In many keys, the chip is not part of the electronics board . It’s often a tiny black or glass capsule , sometimes hidden in a small compartment within the key shell — completely separate from the buttons and battery. If you didn’t see it, it’s probably still sitting inside the old casing. Some people assume that simply moving over the circuit board and battery is enough — but without the transponder, your key won’t be recognized by the car’s immobilizer. This results in the engine failing to start, even though the buttons may still lock and unlock the doors. Symptoms of a Missing or Misplaced Transponder If your key turns in the ignition but: The car does not crank or start You see a flashing key icon or immobilizer warning on the dashboard The central locking might still work, but the engine won’t respond You hear a clicking sound but no ignition occurs Then it’s almost certainly a transponder issue. The car's system is waiting for a valid coded signal from the key — and without it, the start command is rejected. How to Fix It: What You Need to Do Here’s how to get your car running again: 1. Check Your Old Key Shell Open the old casing and look for a small black or clear capsule (typically rice-sized). That’s your transponder chip. Some are glued in place and may require careful prying. 2. Transfer the Chip Carefully remove it and insert it into the correct compartment in your new key shell. Some aftermarket shells have a specific slot for it, while others require a bit of creativity to keep it securely in place. In some cases, adhesive putty or double-sided tape can help hold it. 3. Reassemble and Test Put your key back together and try starting the car again. If the chip is correctly placed, it should work immediately — no reprogramming needed. Always test both ignition and door lock/unlock functions. What If You Lost the Chip? Unfortunately, if the chip is damaged or lost, the key will no longer be able to start your vehicle. In this case, you’ll need to: Contact a professional auto locksmith Have a new transponder chip programmed to your car’s immobilizer system Provide proof of ownership (such as your vehicle logbook or registration) in most cases Depending on the make and model of your car, programming a new chip may cost anywhere from $50 to $250 , and it typically requires special diagnostic equipment. It’s worth noting that some dealerships may charge significantly more than independent auto locksmiths — and you may have to wait longer for service. Pro Tips When Replacing Your Key Shell Always examine the inside of your old shell carefully before throwing it away. Take photos before disassembly so you know where each component goes. If you're unsure where the chip is or how to transfer it, look for DIY videos specific to your key model. Use tweezers and caution — the chip is fragile. Avoid static electricity or contact with magnets during the transfer process. Some modern keys have transponders integrated into the circuit board , in which case no separate chip needs to be moved. If you’re working with a smart key or proximity key, additional steps may be required. These typically involve re-synchronization with the vehicle’s system and may not function correctly without professional assistance. Small Chip, Big Consequences It’s incredible how something as small as a transponder chip can control such a major function. Replacing your key shell is a great way to refresh the look and feel of your key — but it’s vital not to overlook the importance of transferring every component, especially the transponder. Many DIY repairs are abandoned or lead to confusion simply because of this overlooked step. Fortunately, it’s one of the easiest problems to fix once you understand what to look for. If your key looks brand new but your car won’t start, don’t panic. Chances are, the solution is sitting inside your old key shell — quietly waiting to be moved over.
Swirl flaps are a BMW system that has been introduced to help burn the fuel mixture in the cylinder better due to the fact that diesel engines do not have throttle valves and it is not possible to adjust the air-fuel ratio. A diesel engine without vortex valves operates between a poor and a rich fuel mixture, because the only way to regulate it is through fuel injection. Design of the first generation swirl flaps that are made of made of metal. Unfortunately, swirl flaps are responsible for countless damaged engines and costly repairs due to design errors or metal fatigue. Once damaged, the cylinder sucks them in and causes great damage. This is how damaged valves damage the cylinder. Typical swirl flaps suction damage. The vortex valves are positioned in the inlet and are controlled by vacuum (DDE 4.0) or electrically (DDE5.0 / DDE6.4) by the engine ECU. Effects of malfunctioning valves: Swirl valves are stuck in open position: Deterioration of exhaust gas performance at lower speeds. Swirl valves are stuck in closed position: Approximate power loss of 10% at high engine speeds. How swirl flaps work: Performance characteristics: The vortex valves are in the closed position, at low engine speeds and small amounts of fuel injected (controlled by the ECU card). They open under the following conditions: coolant temperature <14 ° C OR * fuel quantity> 24 mg OR 2. engine speed 2250 rpm OR 3. inlet air temperature <-5 ° C. BMW and Pierburg have decided to produce diesel engines with metal vortex valves. The speed at which the pistons in the diesel engine operate is at least 60 rpm, so a sucked vortex valve will break and cause a number of damages inside the engine. In most cases, one or more pistons are severely damaged, as a bonus you get valves, in some cases a head or turbocharger. And this combination with a BMW engine is like a cumulative jackpot 🙂 In 2004, BMW began work on the problem and improved the design, however, a number of owners reported ongoing problems in this area. The solution to this problem is by removing the vortex valves and plugging, which does not affect the performance of the engine and at the same time, you can safely pass the exhaust test. Engines: M47 (136hp VP44 fuel pump) has no valves. M47N common rail engine (including M47N / M47TU / M47TUD20) (150hp. Face lift model from 2001 -) has valves. M57 engines (M57D) (525d & 187hp. 330d) cars with manual transmission do not have valves, but those with automatic have. M57N engines (M57TUD) (525d & 330d 204hp) have vortex valves. Ruined swirl flapss: The plugs that replace the vortex valves are easy to find on the internet, but you can also find them here on our website. Typical plugs: Disassembly of vortex valves: The vortex valves can be safely dismantled and in most cases if they are removed properly no loss of power is felt. Final list of models for which vortex valves are installed: Engine: M47N/M47TU/M47TUD20 Applications: * 110 kW (148 hp) and 330 N·m (243 lb·ft) o E46 320d 2001-2005 o E83 X3 2.0d (up to end of 2006) Engine: M47TU2D20 The engine was updated again in 2004 as the M47TU2D20. Still at 1995 cc, it produced more power across the range. Applications: * 120 kW (161 hp) and 340 N·m (251 lb·ft) E60/E61 520d E87 120d E90/E91 320d E83 X3 2.0d (end of 2006 onwards) Engine: M57/M57D25 M57D25 was introduced in 2000. Applications: * 166 PS (122 kW; 164 hp) at 4000 rpm, 350 N·m (260 lb·ft) at 2000-2500 rpm with a 4750 rpm redline, models: 2000-2003 E39 525d *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY* Engine: M57N/M57TU/M57TUD25 M57TUD25 was introduced in 2004. Applications: * 177 PS (130 kW; 175 hp) at 4000 rpm, 400 N·m (300 lb·ft) at 2000-2750 rpm models: E60/E61 525d Engine: M57/M57D30 M57D30, also called M57D29, was introduced in 1998. Applications: * 184 PS (135 kW; 181 hp)@4000, 390 N·m (290 lb·ft)@1750-3200 models: E39 530d *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY* E46 330d/330xd *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY* * 184 PS (135 kW; 181 hp)@4000, 410 N·m (300 lb·ft)@2000-3000 models: E38 730d *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY* E53 X5 3.0d * 193 PS (142 kW; 190 hp)@4000, 410 N·m (300 lb·ft)@1750-3000 models: E38 730d E39 530d Engine: M57N/M57TU/M57TUD30 M57TUD30 was introduced in 2002. It originally produced 160 kW (215 hp) at 4000 rpm and 500 N·m (370 lb·ft) at 2000-2750 rpm, but was tweaked for 150 kW (201 hp) at 4000 rpm and 410 N·m (300 lb·ft) at 1500-3250 rpm for 2003 and again for 200 kW (268 hp) at 4000 rpm and 560 N·m (410 lb·ft) at 2000-2250 rpm in 2004. Applications: * 204 PS (150 kW; 201 hp)@4000, 410 N·m (300 lb·ft)@1500-3250 models: E46 330d/330Cd/330xd E83 X3 3.0d * 218 PS (160 kW; 215 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2750 models: E53 X5 3.0d E60/E61 530d/530xd E65 730d * 272 PS (200 kW; 268 hp)@4000, 560 N·m (410 lb·ft)@2000-2250 E60/E61 535d * 245 PS (180 kW; 242 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2250 * 286 PS (210 kW; 282 hp)@4000, 580 N·m (430 lb·ft)@2000-2250 Engine: M57TU2D30 M57TU2D30 was introduced in 2007, making its debut in the facelifted E60 and E61. * M57TU2D30-UL: 197 PS (145 kW; 194 hp) * M57TU2D30-OL: 235 PS (173 kW; 232 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2750 * M57TU2D30-TOP: 286 PS (210 kW; 282 hp), 580 N·m (430 lb·ft) Applications: * 197 PS (145 kW; 194 hp), 400 N·m (300 lb·ft) models: E90/E91/E92 325d E60/E61 525d/525xd * 231 PS (170 kW; 228 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2750 models: E65 730d E90/E91 325d E90/E91 330d/330xd * 235 PS (173 kW; 232 hp) models: E60/E61, BMW E70, BMW E71 * 286 PS (210 kW; 282 hp), 580 N·m (430 lb·ft) models: E60/E61 535d E70 X5 3.0sd E71 X6 xDrive35d E83 X3 3.0sd E90/E91 335d The above models are listed for information only if you want to to make sure your engine has valves installed, please contact a competent person. Please note that the information described above is for informational purposes only and does not claim to be reliable. Mr-key.com is not responsible for any repair work you undertake that is related to the topic described in this article.
In an age where convenience is king, keyless entry systems have revolutionized how we interact with our vehicles. Gone are the days of fumbling for physical keys—today’s drivers rely heavily on the sleek, compact functionality of car remotes. However, what happens when this modern convenience fails you? Few things are more frustrating than standing beside your car, repeatedly pressing your remote, only to be met with silence. Understanding why your car remote isn’t working can save you from unnecessary panic, costly repairs, and inconvenient lockouts. This comprehensive guide explores the five most common reasons your remote may malfunction and offers in-depth, actionable solutions to get you back on the road quickly. 1. Battery Depletion: The Silent Saboteur The number one reason for car remote failure is, unsurprisingly, a dead or depleted battery. Though seemingly small, the battery inside your remote plays a crucial role in its operation. Most key fobs use lithium coin batteries (commonly CR2025 or CR2032), known for their durability and longevity. But even these reliable power sources don’t last forever. Factors contributing to faster battery depletion include: Frequent use (especially for remote start and lock/unlock functions) Extreme temperature exposure (both heat and cold reduce battery life) Long periods of inactivity (leading to gradual discharge) Solution: Replacing your key fob battery is a simple, cost-effective fix. Always consult your vehicle’s manual to identify the correct battery type. When replacing, ensure the new battery is seated correctly to avoid poor contact. Proactively changing the battery every 1-2 years, even before it’s fully drained, can prevent sudden failures. 2. Signal Interference: The Invisible Obstacle Key fobs communicate with your vehicle via radio frequencies. However, various external factors can interfere with this communication. Living in urban environments, parking in underground garages, or being near large electronic devices (such as cell towers, Wi-Fi routers, or even other vehicles) can disrupt the signal between your remote and car. Solution: If you suspect signal interference: Move closer to your vehicle or try unlocking it from a different angle. Step away from potential sources of interference like electronic devices or heavy machinery. Hold the key fob higher or away from your body to improve signal transmission. While occasional interference is common, if the problem persists across multiple locations, consider resetting or reprogramming your fob. 3. Desynchronization: Losing Connection Sometimes, your key fob may lose synchronization with your vehicle’s receiver—especially after events like a battery change or extended periods of non-use. When this happens, the fob and vehicle are essentially "speaking different languages," resulting in non-responsiveness. Solution: Check your vehicle's manual, as many manufacturers provide step-by-step instructions to manually re-sync the fob. Typically, this involves a sequence like inserting and turning the ignition key, pressing specific buttons, or opening and closing the doors in a set pattern. If manual reprogramming fails, you may need assistance from a dealership or certified locksmith equipped with the necessary diagnostic tools. 4. Physical Damage: The Wear and Tear Factor Remote key fobs, despite their solid appearance, are not invincible. Everyday handling—dropping the remote, spilling liquids, or even rough storage—can cause internal components to malfunction. Moisture exposure, in particular, is a key offender, leading to corrosion or short-circuiting of the circuitry inside. Solution: Inspect your remote regularly for: Visible cracks, chips, or signs of wear Sticky buttons or unresponsive keys Water damage indicators If damage is evident, replacing the remote may be your best bet. For minor issues, cleaning the interior components (after carefully opening the casing) with a soft cloth and isopropyl alcohol can sometimes restore functionality. Consider investing in a protective cover to prevent future damage. 5. Vehicle Receiver Issues: The Hidden Problem While the key fob often gets the blame, sometimes the issue lies within your vehicle’s receiver system. If the receiver—which detects and processes the signal from your remote—is malfunctioning, your remote will appear useless regardless of its condition. Solution: One telltale sign of a faulty receiver is if multiple remotes fail to operate the car. In this case, the problem is likely internal. Diagnosing and fixing receiver issues typically requires professional assistance, either from a dealership or an experienced automotive technician equipped with specialized diagnostic tools. Global Context: Keyless Challenges Worldwide The rise of keyless systems isn't limited to one region—it’s a global phenomenon. However, as technology advances, so do the challenges. For instance, key signal cloning and relay attacks have become prevalent, particularly in Europe and North America, prompting manufacturers to enhance security measures continually. Understanding the basics of how your key fob works and its vulnerabilities can help protect against both everyday failures and more sophisticated threats. Stay Ahead of the Problem Modern car remotes offer unmatched convenience, but when they fail, the disruption can be significant. Whether it’s a dead battery, signal interference, synchronization glitch, physical damage, or vehicle receiver issue, knowing how to identify and fix the problem puts you in control. Take proactive steps—replace batteries regularly, handle your remote with care, and familiarize yourself with your vehicle’s reprogramming process. A small investment of time today could save you from major headaches tomorrow. Stay informed. Stay prepared. And keep your car remote working seamlessly, wherever the road takes you.
Changing or removing the lock barrel on your roof rack may seem like a daunting task, but it’s actually simpler than you might think. Whether you need a replacement due to a lost key, wear and tear, or just want to swap out an old lock for a new one, following the right steps can make the process hassle-free. This guide will walk you through everything you need to know about handling a roof rack lock barrel with ease. Why You Might Need to Change a Roof Rack Lock Barrel ? There are several reasons why you may want to replace or remove your roof rack lock barrel: Lost Key : If you've misplaced the key, replacing the lock barrel is often the most practical solution. Upgrading the Lock : Maybe you want a more secure lock for added peace of mind. Routine Maintenance : Over time, lock barrels can wear down, making it harder to insert or turn the key. Uniformity : If you've recently changed your car key, you may want to match your roof rack lock with it. Knowing why you’re changing the lock barrel will help you determine the steps you need to follow. What You’ll Need Before you start, gather these essential tools and items: Replacement Lock Barrel : Ensure it’s compatible with your roof rack model. Master Key or Removal Key : Often required to remove the old lock barrel. New Key : The key that corresponds to the replacement lock barrel. Flathead Screwdriver : To gently pry and release certain parts if needed. Step-by-Step Guide to Removing a Roof Rack Lock Barrel Removing a lock barrel from your roof rack doesn’t require extensive mechanical skills. Just follow these straightforward steps: 1. Locate the Lock Barrel The lock barrel is usually situated in the center or side of the roof rack. Look for the small lock with the keyhole, as this is where you'll be inserting the master or removal key. 2. Insert the Master Key or Removal Key If you have a master or removal key, insert it into the lock. This is often a universal key provided by the lock manufacturer specifically for removing lock barrels. Once it’s inserted, turn the key slightly to unlock the barrel. Tip: If you don’t have a removal key, contact a professional or see if you can order one specifically for your model. 3. Pull the Lock Barrel Out With the removal key still in place, gently pull the lock barrel out. If it’s resistant, try wiggling it slightly while pulling. Avoid forcing it, as this could damage the lock or roof rack. In some cases, you may need a flathead screwdriver to help pry it out, but be careful not to scratch the surrounding area. 4. Check the Casing After removing the lock barrel, inspect the casing where the barrel was installed. Make sure it’s clean and free of debris. Any dirt or rust could interfere with the new lock barrel, so it’s a good idea to clean this area before proceeding. Installing the New Lock Barrel Once the old barrel is removed, you’re ready to install the new one. Here’s how: 1. Align the New Lock Barrel Take your new lock barrel and align it with the casing where the old one was. Most barrels are designed to fit in only one direction, so make sure you align it properly to avoid jamming. 2. Insert the New Barrel Push the new lock barrel into the casing until it clicks into place. This might require a bit of pressure, but it should fit snugly without needing excessive force. 3. Test the New Key After installing the new lock barrel, insert the new key and turn it to ensure it’s working smoothly. The key should turn easily and lock securely. This step verifies that the new lock is properly aligned and functional. Common Challenges and Solutions While changing a roof rack lock barrel is generally straightforward, you might encounter some challenges. Here’s how to troubleshoot common issues: Stuck Barrel : If the old barrel is stuck, apply a lubricant like WD-40 around the lock to help loosen it. No Removal Key : If you don’t have a master or removal key, consider reaching out to a locksmith or checking if the manufacturer offers a replacement. Barrel Won’t Fit : Ensure you’ve purchased a compatible lock barrel. Even slight differences in design can prevent it from fitting properly. Tips for Maintaining Your Roof Rack Lock To keep your new lock barrel in good condition and prevent the need for frequent replacements, consider these maintenance tips: Regular Cleaning : Dirt and grime can accumulate inside the lock over time, making it harder to operate. Clean the lock regularly to prevent this. Use Lubricant : Apply a small amount of lubricant inside the lock barrel periodically to keep the key turning smoothly. Protect from Rust : If your roof rack is exposed to rain and humidity, use a protective cover or shield to keep moisture out of the lock barrel. Check Key Fit : Avoid using a damaged or bent key, as this can wear out the lock barrel more quickly. When to Seek Professional Help In some cases, removing or replacing a roof rack lock barrel might require assistance from a professional: Lost or Damaged Keys : If both your main key and master key are lost or damaged, a professional can help retrieve or replace the lock barrel. Damaged Lock Mechanism : If the lock itself is damaged or jammed, forcing it can make things worse. A professional locksmith can safely remove and replace it. Replacing or removing a roof rack lock barrel is an affordable and manageable task for most car owners. By following the right steps and keeping up with regular maintenance, you can ensure your roof rack lock stays functional and secure. Whether you’re upgrading for security or replacing a worn-out lock, a new lock barrel can make all the difference in keeping your roof rack safe. Effortless Key Replacement for a Variety of Locks Order 2x Union Keys FT Series, custom-cut to your original key code, for a hassle-free replacement. Compatible with a range of locks, including those from Aston Martin, Jaguar, Land Rover, and more, these keys are perfect for classic cars, caravans, petrol caps, roof racks, and truck canopies. Simply find your lock code (e.g., FT101-FT360) on the lock face and enjoy fast delivery of high-quality spare keys.
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