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Westfalia towbars are a common choice for many car owners due to their reliability and ease of use. However, because you may use your Westfalia towbar key sporadically throughout the year, it’s not uncommon to misplace it, often at the most inconvenient times—like when you're about to go on vacation.

If you've lost your key, you might not know the number of the key you need to order a replacement. Fortunately, there is a way to determine this, depending on whether your towbar lock has a 3-digit or a 5-digit number.

Step 1: Check the Number on Your Towbar Lock

The first step is to inspect your towbar lock to see if it has a 3-digit or 5-digit number. Here’s what to do next:

Sample picture of how 5-digits lock number looks like.

  • If you have a 3-digit number: Unfortunately, the key code remains unknown based on this number alone. We can only manufacture a new key if you have at least one original key and can provide us with the W** or 2W** code from it.
  • If you have a 5-digit number: You're in luck! You can easily determine the correct key code. The key code is based on the last two digits of the 5-digit lock number, prefixed with "2W".

Step 2: Calculate Your Key Code

If your towbar lock has a 5-digit number, simply ignore the first three digits and use the last two digits. Prepend "2W" to these digits to form the key code.

For example, if the code on your lock is 33322, then your key code is 2W22. This code will be the number you provide when ordering a replacement key.

Even if your 5-digit lock code starts with a different set of three digits, the method remains the same—ignore the first three and focus on the last two digits.

For your convenience, we include our key code generator below.

What to Do If You’ve Lost All Your Keys

If you have lost all your keys and only have the 5-digit number on the lock, you can still determine the correct key using the method described above.

 Unfortunately, if your lock only has a 3-digit number, the specific key code cannot be determined based on the number alone.

Remember, the key code is crucial for obtaining a replacement key. If the towbar was manufactured after 2008, the 5-digit code on the lock cylinder will allow you to identify the correct key. Simply use the last two digits and prefix them with "2W" to get the key code.

If you're ever unsure, it's always a good idea to reach out to the manufacturer or a professional who can assist in identifying the correct key.

Conclusion

Choosing the correct key for your Westfalia towbar is straightforward if you know what to look for. By following these steps, you can quickly determine the correct key code and ensure you're never stuck without access to your towbar when you need it most. Be sure to keep your key code information safe, and consider having a spare key made to avoid future issues.

Click Here To Order Your Westfalia Towbar Key >>

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Can a Locksmith Cut a Key from a Photo or Code?

Can a Locksmith Cut a Key from a Photo or Code?

Short answer: yes— for many keys, a locksmith can cut accurately from a photo or a code . The details depend on the key type, the quality of the image/data. Key cutting from code vs from photo By code (most precise). A key code (often printed on locks, key tags, or documentation) translates into a series of cut depths called the bitting . On a code machine, a locksmith dials those depths and cuts a new key without the original present . This is the preferred method for many utility keys (e.g., caravan, retro auto, e-bike battery, furniture, mailboxes, ATVs, roof racks, towbars), but also for car keys. By photo (works in many cases). From a clear, square-on image, a trained technician can decode the cut depths and reproduce the bitting. Research has shown keys can be recreated from ordinary or telephoto shots if the profile and scale are known. This is why publishing close-ups of your keys is discouraged. When a photo is “good enough” If you’re ordering car keys cut by photo or utility keys by photo , expect guidelines like: Flat, well-lit, high-resolution image; key blade perfectly side-on. Ruler/coin in frame for scale; entire blade visible, shoulder to tip. For double-sided/laser keys, shots of both sides. Keyway/profile identification (brand/series). Automotive: cutting from photo or code—plus programming Cutting the blade is only step one for modern cars. Since the late 1990s, most vehicles have immobilisers ; the key’s transponder chip must be recognised or the engine won’t start. In practice: Get the correct blank and cut it (photo or code). Program the transponder/remote (OBD or on-board procedures), or pair a proximity fob. Test mechanical operation and ignition start. Main points UK readers should know: Immobiliser/transponder tech became standard in the mid-1990s; without a programmed chip, a correctly cut key usually won’t start the car. A key code specific to your vehicle lets a locksmith/dealer cut precisely without an original; some guides explain where owners can find it. Utility keys we commonly see cut by code If you have the key code , these are routinely cut accurately online: Retro automobile keys (classic patterns; often stamped codes). Caravan & motorhome key s (e.g., ZADI, FAP/FAWO—codes on barrels). E-bike battery keys (e.g., ABUS/AXA series). Furniture, mailboxes keys (office furniture, cam locks). ATV/quad ignition and compartment keys. Roof racks (e.g., Thule N*** series). Towbars (e.g., Westfalia/Brink code series). For these categories, supplying the printed code (from the lock face, key head, manual, or tag) usually yields the fastest, most reliable result compared to photos. Accuracy expectations & limitations What typically works well Flat cylinder keys with standard depth systems (common utility keys). Many car blades (including laser/sidewinder) if the image is clean and scaled. Keys where the lock/brand series is known and the bitting can be derived . What may be restricted or not feasible from a photo Patented/restricted keyways (require authorised proof and controlled blanks). Highly worn, bent, or obscured keys in photos. Complex security keys that need factory or authorised dealer processes. Car keys where programming tokens, PINs, or security codes are required. For security and consumer protection in the UK, look for MLA-approved locksmiths and insist on identity/ownership checks for sensitive work. Real-world risk: why photos can be enough Academic work and well-reported incidents show that key geometry can be decoded from images at surprising distances. Media have covered expensive lock replacements after keys appeared on camera, underlining the practical risk of sharing key images online. Keep your keys out of frame. What an online order typically requires For car keys (photo or code): Vehicle make/model/year, blade type, and VIN if needed for code retrieval. Clear photos (both sides). Programming method: mobile visit, on-site, or mail-in ECU/fob (varies by model). Expect additional steps for remote locking and proximity systems. For utility keys (cut by code): The code from the lock face or original key (e.g., N123 , Z **). Brand or system (Thule, Zadi, Westfalia, etc.). Quantity and turnaround needs (next-day options often available). Speed and success rates By code : fastest and most consistent for; minimal adjustment needed. By photo : slightly more validation and back-and-forth; still accurate when images meet spec. Why choose an online key cutting service like MR-KEY Unlike traditional emergency locksmiths who mainly handle urgent lockouts, MR-KEY specialises in precision key cutting from photos or codes — ideal when you’re not locked out but need an exact replacement or spare . Through our online platform, you can: Order from anywhere in the UK — simply upload a clear photo or enter your key code. Get fast, expert cutting using professional decoding software and calibrated machines. Receive your key by post , ready to use or, for vehicles, to be programmed locally. With MR-KEY, you save the cost and time of a mobile visit while still getting locksmith-level precision. Each key is verified before dispatch to ensure perfect fitting and reliable operation. FAQs Can a locksmith cut a car key from a photo? Often yes, the blade can be cut from a high-quality photo , but modern cars also need transponder/immobiliser programming before the engine will start. Is cutting by code more accurate than using a photo? For most utility keys , yes . A verified key code maps to exact cut depths, making the process highly repeatable and quick. Can someone copy my key from a social media photo? It’s technically possible; public cases and research have shown keys can be decoded from images . Avoid posting close-ups of keys online. What’s the difference between “key cutting,” “key replacement,” and an “emergency locksmith”? Key cutting : the physical milling of a blade (by code/copy/photo). Key replacement : end-to-end service supplying a working key/fob (cutting + programming if needed). Emergency locksmith : rapid response for lockouts or urgent access/security issues. Order your new key today at mr-key.com — fast, accurate, and cut by professionals from your photo or code.

Car Ignition Switch Problems: Symptoms, Causes, and Replacement Guide

Car Ignition Switch Problems: Symptoms, Causes, and Replacement Guide

The ignition switch is one of the most important electrical components in any car. When it starts to fail, the symptoms can appear suddenly, seem unrelated, and quickly leave you stranded. This guide explains the real-world signs , the common causes , the most accurate diagnosis steps , and a clear ignition switch replacement guide that helps any driver understand what’s happening and what to do next. If you’re dealing with car ignition lock problems , this article gives you the clarity you need to fix the issue fast and safely. What the Ignition Switch Actually Does The ignition switch has two critical jobs: 1. Electrical power distribution It sends power to the dashboard, fuel pump, ignition system, starter motor, and electronic modules. 2. Starting the engine When you turn the key (or press the button), it bridges electrical circuits, enabling the starter motor to crank the engine. When the ignition switch begins failing, even slightly, it disrupts these circuits. That’s why symptoms can range from flickering dash lights to complete engine shutdown. Symptoms of a Failing Ignition Switch These are the most common, proven symptoms that mechanics use to identify ignition switch problems. 1. Car Won’t Start or Cranks Intermittently If turning the key does nothing—or the engine cranks sometimes but not always—the ignition switch may not be sending power consistently to the starter relay. Typical behavior includes: Silence when turning the key Clicks but no cranking Starts only after multiple attempts Total power loss during cranking This is one of the most classic ignition switch symptoms. 2. Stalling While Driving A failing ignition switch can cut power to the engine while you’re moving . Common signs: Sudden stall for no reason All dash lights go off instantly Engine dies when hitting bumps Engine cuts out but restarts immediately This is dangerous and needs urgent attention. 3. Dashboard Lights Flickering or Turning Off When the internal contacts inside the switch wear out, they create tiny power interruptions. You may see: Speedometer drops to zero Warning lights randomly appear Interior electronics momentarily cut out Radio resets or flickers These short power losses are a major red flag. 4. Key Feels Hot or Hard to Turn If the key is warm after driving, the switch may be overheating internally. If the key becomes difficult to rotate, the ignition cylinder (mechanical part) may be worn — which often leads to switch failure later. 5. Accessories Don’t Work in ACC Mode If turning the key to ACC does not activate: radio wipers power windows heater fan …the accessory circuit inside the switch may be failing. 6. No Sound from the Fuel Pump When Turning the Key You should hear a soft humming for 1–2 seconds. If you don’t, it may mean the ignition switch isn’t powering the pump relay. What Causes Ignition Switch Problems? Ignition switches fail for predictable and well-documented reasons. 1. Internal Wear Over Time Inside the ignition switch are metal contact plates . After thousands of cycles, these contacts burn, corrode, or lose tension. Symptoms develop slowly: random stalling needing to wiggle the key intermittent power This is the most common cause. 2. Heavy Keychains Many drivers don’t realise this: A heavy keychain constantly pulls on the ignition cylinder. Over years, this causes: internal looseness misalignment premature switch failure If your keychain has more than a few items, it may be contributing. 3. Heat and Electrical Overload Faulty relays, worn fuel pumps, or aftermarket accessories can overload the ignition switch. Excess heat damages the internal copper contacts, causing: hot key symptoms partial circuit failure total switch burnout 4. Moisture or Dirt in the Cylinder Moisture or dust causes the mechanical part of the ignition to jam or bind. This forces extra pressure onto the switch every time the key turns. 5. Faulty Key or Worn Key Blade If your key doesn’t rotate smoothly, it can damage both the cylinder and the switch . Worn keys often lead to electrical faults later. How to Diagnose Ignition Switch Problems Accurately Before replacing parts, you should confirm the ignition switch is truly the issue. These steps follow the same logic professional mechanics use. 1. Check if Dashboard Lights Turn On Turn the key to ON without starting the engine. If: no lights come on lights flicker radio stays off …the ignition switch might not be sending voltage. 2. Try Starting with Accessories On Turn the key to ACC. If the accessories work in ACC but the engine won’t start, the “start circuit” inside the ignition switch may be failing. 3. Wiggle Test Gently wiggle the key while: trying to start with ACC on with the engine idling If wiggling makes electronics turn on/off, the switch is internally worn. 4. Bump Test While Driving If the car stalls when hitting bumps or potholes, the switch is losing internal contact momentarily. This is one of the strongest indicators of a failing switch. 5. Test Voltage at the Ignition Switch (Advanced) Using a multimeter, check for: constant power switched power accessory power start signal power If any circuit fails randomly, it confirms an ignition switch fault. If you need a safety reference for electrical testing, you can check the UK Government’s general vehicle safety guidance here: Prevention: How to Avoid Ignition Switch Problems Ignition switch failures can often be prevented with small habits. 1. Keep Your Keychain Light Remove heavy accessories. This reduces stress on the ignition cylinder and switch dramatically. 2. Avoid Resting Hands on the Key While Driving Constant pressure on the key twists the internal contacts. 3. Only Use Correct, Undamaged Keys Bent, cracked, or worn keys can damage: the cylinder the switch the steering lock If your key is worn, replace it before it causes further problems. 4. Address Electrical Problems Early A failing alternator, weak battery, or short circuits can overload the ignition switch. If you notice dim headlights or battery warnings, fix those early. 5. Keep Dust and Moisture Out of the Cylinder Avoid spraying WD-40 or household lubricants into the ignition—it attracts dust. Use proper graphite lock lubricant if needed. Ignition Switch Replacement Guide You should only replace the ignition switch if diagnosis confirms it. Below is a clear replacement overview used by both DIYers and technicians. Note: Procedures vary by vehicle, but the overall steps are similar. 1. Disconnect the Battery Always disconnect the negative terminal. This prevents: accidental airbag deployment electrical shorts damage to modules 2. Remove Steering Column Covers Most cars use simple screws underneath. Once removed, the top and bottom covers split apart. 3. Locate the Ignition Switch Module It is usually mounted behind the ignition cylinder. Depending on the car: it may be held by two screws or secured with clips or integrated into a combined steering lock module 4. Remove the Electrical Connector Ignition switches usually have one large multi-pin connector. Release the locking tab and pull it gently. 5. Remove and Replace the Switch Install the new switch in the exact orientation as the old one. Common mistakes to avoid: misaligning the switch’s internal slot tightening screws unevenly damaging wiring during removal 6. Reassemble and Test Thoroughly After reassembly, test: ACC mode ON mode engine start headlights indicators wipers radio If everything works consistently, the replacement is successful. Is It Safe to Drive with a Bad Ignition Switch? Usually no . A failing ignition switch can: stall the engine suddenly disable power steering shutdown ABS cut power to headlights at night The RAC warns that electrical failures causing engine cut-outs are a serious safety risk. If your switch is failing, get it inspected immediately. FAQ: Car Ignition Switch Problems 1. How much does ignition switch replacement cost? Most replacements cost £80–£300 depending on the vehicle. Some modern cars require coding, making the cost higher. 2. Can a bad ignition switch cause the car to stall? Yes. Loss of electrical contact in the switch can cut power to the engine instantly. 3. Is a failing ignition switch the same as a bad starter? No. A bad starter prevents the engine from cranking. A bad ignition switch prevents power from reaching the starter or other systems. 4. Can a locksmith replace an ignition switch? In many cases, yes — especially for older vehicles. For modern immobilizer systems, a vehicle technician may be required. 5. Can I drive with ignition switch problems? It’s unsafe. The engine can cut out while driving, especially on bumps or turns. 6. Does a bad ignition switch affect accessories only? It can affect: accessories engine start fuel pump dashboard power ECU communication It depends on which internal circuit fails. 7. What’s the lifespan of an ignition switch? Most last between 10–15 years , depending on usage and electrical load. 8. Do push-button cars have ignition switches? Yes — they use an electronic ignition switch module instead of a mechanical one. Failure symptoms are similar. 9. What does a worn key have to do with ignition switch problems? A badly worn key can cause mechanical strain on the cylinder, which then stresses the electrical switch linked behind it. 10. Can I prevent ignition switch issues? Yes — keep your keychain light, avoid forcing the key, and keep electrical systems maintained. For high-quality replacement automotive parts and spare key, visit our shop at mr-key.com .

The Secret to Smooth Locks: How (and Why) to Lubricate Your Locks Like a Pro

The Secret to Smooth Locks: How (and Why) to Lubricate Your Locks Like a Pro

Regular lock maintenance is essential to prevent key jamming or lock failure. Proper lubrication reduces wear and tear, ensures smooth operation, and extends the lifespan of your locks. A well-lubricated lock decreases the risk of your key getting stuck or breaking inside the lock—an inconvenient and costly problem. At MR-KEY , we understand the importance of well-maintained locks and want to help you keep yours in top condition. How Often Should You Lubricate Your Locks? For most locks, lubricating them every three to six months is sufficient. However, locks exposed to extreme weather conditions—such as those on towbars, roof racks, or outdoor gates—require more frequent maintenance. Rain, dust, and freezing temperatures can cause internal components to stick, making it difficult to insert or turn the key. If you notice resistance when using a lock, it’s time for lubrication. What Lubricant Should You Use for Locks? Choosing the right lubricant is crucial for long-term lock performance. Here are the best options: • Teflon-based (PTFE) spray – Forms a protective film inside the lock, reducing friction and repelling dust buildup. • Dry silicone spray – Excellent for outdoor locks as it resists moisture without attracting dirt. • WD-40 Specialist Dry PTFE or White Lithium Grease – Unlike regular WD-40, these provide long-lasting lubrication and protection against corrosion. • Graphite powder – A great choice for older locks but should not be used if there’s oil residue inside the lock. While WD-40 Multi-Use is a quick fix for stuck locks, it is primarily a cleaner rather than a long-term lubricant. If used, follow up with a dry lubricant to prevent dirt accumulation inside the lock. How to Lubricate a Lock If your lock is functioning properly but feels slightly stiff, follow these steps: 1. Clean the Lock – Insert and remove the key a few times to dislodge debris, wiping it clean each time. 2. Apply the Lubricant – Insert the spray straw into the keyhole and apply two short bursts of lubricant. 3. Work the Lock – Insert and turn the key multiple times to distribute the lubricant inside. 4. Wipe Excess Lubricant – Remove any residue from the key and lock exterior to prevent dirt buildup. For graphite powder , follow the manufacturer’s specific instructions, as overapplication can lead to clumping inside the lock. Special Care for Towbar and Roof Rack Locks Locks on towbars and roof racks are exposed to harsher conditions than typical door locks. To keep them in good shape: • Regularly inspect them for stiffness or corrosion. • Apply dry silicone spray or PTFE lubricant for lasting protection. • If the lock is exposed to frequent moisture, white lithium grease offers superior water resistance. Lock It in: The Key to Long-Lasting Security Regular lock maintenance is a small effort that prevents big problems. By keeping your locks clean and properly lubricated—especially those exposed to the elements—you can avoid costly repairs and ensure they function smoothly for years. For high-quality lock maintenance products, visit MR-KEY and keep your locks in perfect working condition. A little maintenance goes a long way in ensuring security and peace of mind!

Lost Your Roof Rack Key? Here's Exactly What to Do

Lost Your Roof Rack Key? Here's Exactly What to Do

Losing a roof rack key is more common than manufacturers like to admit. The good news: it's almost always solvable — quickly, cheaply, and without a locksmith. Here's the exact sequence to follow, from the moment you realise the key is gone. Step 1: Don't Panic — and Don't Force It The first instinct is to try to open the lock anyway. Don't. Forcing a barrel lock with the wrong tool damages the cylinder, strips the keyway, and turns a simple €8 key replacement into a €40 lock cylinder replacement. Leave the lock alone until you have the right key or professional help. Step 2: Check for the Key Code Before you do anything else, find your key code. This is the number stamped on your lock barrel, printed on your original key card, or listed in your rack documentation. Where to look: The lock face — look at the front of any lock point on your rack. The code is usually stamped directly on the metal Your original key — if you have one remaining key, the code is often stamped on the bow (the flat grip section) Paperwork — the key card or code card that came with your rack at purchase Registration confirmation — if you registered your rack online with Thule, Yakima, or Mont Blanc, the code may be on your account Found the code? You're done with the hard part. Jump to Step 5. No code visible? Continue to Step 3. Step 3: Photograph the Lock Take a clear, close-up photograph of the lock face in good light. This photo can do two things: Help a specialist identify your key — experienced suppliers can often determine the correct key from the keyway profile and any partial stamping visible in a photo Help a locksmith decode the lock — a physical locksmith can sometimes read the code from the lock face or decode it by impression Send the photo to a specialist before assuming you're stuck. Step 4: Identify Your Brand and Model If the code is genuinely unreadable, your brand and rack model narrows down the options considerably. Thule — uses N-series codes (N001–N200+), stamped on the lock barrel. If you know your N-code, the key is in stock. Yakima — uses SKS (Same Key System) codes, typically found on the lock core. Common range: SKS-101 to SKS-132+. Mont Blanc — numeric code system, on a sticker inside the lock or on the original key card. GIVI — code found on the product label or lock face. Other brands — most use ISO-standard barrel formats with numeric codes. Once you have brand + model, a specialist supplier can suggest the most likely code ranges for your rack generation and help you narrow it down. Step 5: Order the Replacement Key With your code confirmed, ordering is straightforward. What you need to provide: Brand (Thule, Yakima, Mont Blanc, GIVI, other) Exact key code (e.g. N121, SKS-115) Quantity — we recommend ordering two: one replacement and one spare From mr-key.com, keys ship to most European destinations within 2–5 business days . No locksmith. No dealer visit. No full rack replacement. Step 6: What If You Still Can't Unlock the Rack? If you have cargo on the rack that you need to remove urgently — bikes, a roof box, ski equipment — and you cannot wait for a replacement key, you have limited but real options. Option A: Call a locksmith A locksmith experienced with barrel locks can open your rack lock without damage and, in many cases, cut you a working key on the spot. This costs €50–€120 depending on location and time of day. Option B: Contact your rack manufacturer Thule and Yakima both have customer service lines. With proof of purchase or registered ownership, they may be able to supply a replacement key or lock service. Option C: Remove the lock cylinder On some rack models, the lock cylinder can be removed from the outside with the rack foot or arm partially dismantled. This requires mechanical confidence and the correct tools — consult your rack's installation manual first. Once the cylinder is out, a locksmith can decode it or you can replace it entirely. Roof Rack After the Crisis: What to Do Next Once you have access and a replacement key in hand, take 10 minutes to prevent this from happening again. Photograph your key code. Take a photo of the code stamped on your lock face. Store it in cloud storage or email it to yourself with the subject line "roof rack key code — [your rack brand]." Buy a spare key. It costs less than €10. Keep it somewhere separate from your main keyring — a drawer at home, your work locker, your other car. Register your rack. Thule and Yakima both offer product registration. Registering links your key code to your account, making future replacements instant. Label your key. If you have multiple sets of keys — car, house, garage, rack — label your rack key clearly so it's never confused and never left behind. Roof Rack Key Replacement: Brand-by-Brand Quick Reference Brand Where to Find Code Key Format Notes Thule Stamped on lock face N001–N200+ One-Key System: one code for all locks Yakima On lock core SKS-101–SKS-132+ Same Key System: one code for all locks Mont Blanc Inside lock or key card Numeric Sticker sometimes fades — check paperwork GIVI Product label or lock face Numeric Primarily motorcycle/touring racks Kamei / G3 / Farad Lock face or documentation Varies Contact supplier with photo if unsure FAQ Q: I lost both keys — can I still get a replacement? A: Yes. The key code is stamped on the lock itself, not on the key. As long as you can read the code on the lock face, you can order a replacement. If the code is unreadable, send a photo to a specialist supplier. Q: My rack is second-hand and came with no keys — what are my options? A: Check the lock face for a stamped code. If none is visible, a locksmith can decode the lock. Alternatively, order a replacement lock cylinder for your rack model — it will arrive with new keys and a new code. Q: How long will a locksmith take to open a roof rack lock? A: Most experienced locksmiths can open a barrel-style rack lock in under 10 minutes. The challenge is finding one who works on non-automotive locks — call ahead and confirm. Q: Can I drill out a roof rack lock myself? A: Technically yes, but this destroys the lock cylinder and leaves your rack unsecurable until you replace the full lock assembly. Only consider this if the cargo is time-critical and a locksmith is not available. Q: Will my insurance cover a lost roof rack key? A: Home contents or vehicle insurance sometimes covers key replacement, including accessories like rack locks. Check your policy — the cost of a specialist supplier is low, but it's worth reclaiming if covered. Q: I found a spare key in my car — how do I know if it's the right one? A: Try it carefully and gently. If it inserts smoothly and turns without force, it's the correct key. If it doesn't insert fully or requires force, stop — it's the wrong profile and forcing it risks damaging the cylinder. Q: Can I order a replacement key for an old rack that's no longer sold? A: In most cases yes. Key codes from established brands like Thule and Yakima remain in production for decades. Discontinued rack models still use the same N-series or SKS key codes. Get Your Replacement Key (Fast EU Shipping – Same-Day Dispatch) You know the code. You know the process. Don't leave it until the next trip. Visit mr-key.com to order your replacement roof rack key by brand and code. We ship to Germany, France, Italy, Greece, Netherlands, Romania, Spain, the UK, and across Europe — with tracking on every order. → Order Your Roof Rack Key at mr-key.com Also read: The Complete Guide to Roof Rack Replacement Keys | Thule Roof Rack Key Replacement: How to Find Your Code and Order the Right Key

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