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Swirl flaps are a BMW system that has been introduced to help burn the fuel mixture in the cylinder better due to the fact that diesel engines do not have throttle valves and it is not possible to adjust the air-fuel ratio. A diesel engine without vortex valves operates between a poor and a rich fuel mixture, because the only way to regulate it is through fuel injection.

Design of the first generation swirl flaps that are made of made of metal.

Unfortunately, swirl flaps are responsible for countless damaged engines and costly repairs due to design errors or metal fatigue. Once damaged, the cylinder sucks them in and causes great damage.

This is how damaged valves damage the cylinder.

Typical swirl flaps  suction damage.

The vortex valves are positioned in the inlet and are controlled by vacuum (DDE 4.0) or electrically (DDE5.0 / DDE6.4) by the engine ECU.

Effects of malfunctioning valves:

  • Swirl valves are  stuck in open position: Deterioration of exhaust gas performance at lower speeds.
  • Swirl valves are stuck in closed position: Approximate power loss of 10% at high engine speeds.

How swirl flaps work:

Performance characteristics:

The vortex valves are in the closed position, at low engine speeds and small amounts of fuel injected (controlled by the ECU card).

They open under the following conditions:

  1. coolant temperature <14 ° C OR * fuel quantity> 24 mg OR
  2. engine speed 2250 rpm OR
  3. inlet air temperature <-5 ° C

BMW and Pierburg have decided to produce diesel engines with metal vortex valves. The speed at which the pistons in the diesel engine operate is at least 60 rpm, so a sucked vortex valve will break and cause a number of damages inside the engine.

In most cases, one or more pistons are severely damaged, as a bonus you get valves, in some cases a head or turbocharger. And this combination with a BMW engine is like a cumulative jackpot  🙂

In 2004, BMW began work on the problem and improved the design, however, a number of owners reported ongoing problems in this area.

The solution to this problem is by removing the vortex valves and plugging, which does not affect the performance of the engine and at the same time, you can safely pass the exhaust test.

Engines:

M47 (136hp VP44 fuel pump) has no valves.

M47N common rail engine (including M47N / M47TU / M47TUD20) (150hp. Face lift model from 2001 -) has valves.

M57 engines (M57D) (525d & 187hp. 330d) cars with manual transmission do not have valves, but those with automatic have.

M57N engines (M57TUD) (525d & 330d 204hp) have vortex valves.

Ruined swirl flaps:

The plugs that replace the vortex valves are easy to find on the internet, but you can also find them here on our website.

Typical plugs:
 

Disassembly of vortex valves:

The vortex valves can be safely dismantled and in most cases if they are  removed properly no loss of power is felt.

Final list of models for which vortex valves are installed:

Engine: M47N/M47TU/M47TUD20

Applications:

* 110 kW (148 hp) and 330 N·m (243 lb·ft)

o E46 320d 2001-2005

o E83 X3 2.0d (up to end of 2006)

Engine: M47TU2D20

The engine was updated again in 2004 as the M47TU2D20. Still at 1995 cc, it produced more power across the range.

Applications:

* 120 kW (161 hp) and 340 N·m (251 lb·ft)

E60/E61 520d

E87 120d

E90/E91 320d

E83 X3 2.0d (end of 2006 onwards)

Engine: M57/M57D25

M57D25 was introduced in 2000.

Applications:

* 166 PS (122 kW; 164 hp) at 4000 rpm, 350 N·m (260 lb·ft) at 2000-2500 rpm with a 4750 rpm redline, models:

2000-2003 E39 525d *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY*

Engine: M57N/M57TU/M57TUD25

M57TUD25 was introduced in 2004.

Applications:

* 177 PS (130 kW; 175 hp) at 4000 rpm, 400 N·m (300 lb·ft) at 2000-2750 rpm models:

E60/E61 525d

Engine: M57/M57D30

M57D30, also called M57D29, was introduced in 1998.

Applications:

* 184 PS (135 kW; 181 hp)@4000, 390 N·m (290 lb·ft)@1750-3200 models:

E39 530d *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY*

E46 330d/330xd *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY*

* 184 PS (135 kW; 181 hp)@4000, 410 N·m (300 lb·ft)@2000-3000 models:

E38 730d *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY*

E53 X5 3.0d

* 193 PS (142 kW; 190 hp)@4000, 410 N·m (300 lb·ft)@1750-3000 models:

E38 730d

E39 530d

Engine: M57N/M57TU/M57TUD30

M57TUD30 was introduced in 2002. It originally produced 160 kW (215 hp) at 4000 rpm and 500 N·m (370 lb·ft) at 2000-2750 rpm, but was tweaked for 150 kW (201 hp) at 4000 rpm and 410 N·m (300 lb·ft) at 1500-3250 rpm for 2003 and again for 200 kW (268 hp) at 4000 rpm and 560 N·m (410 lb·ft) at 2000-2250 rpm in 2004.

Applications:

* 204 PS (150 kW; 201 hp)@4000, 410 N·m (300 lb·ft)@1500-3250 models:

E46 330d/330Cd/330xd

E83 X3 3.0d

* 218 PS (160 kW; 215 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2750 models:

E53 X5 3.0d

E60/E61 530d/530xd

E65 730d

* 272 PS (200 kW; 268 hp)@4000, 560 N·m (410 lb·ft)@2000-2250

E60/E61 535d

* 245 PS (180 kW; 242 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2250

* 286 PS (210 kW; 282 hp)@4000, 580 N·m (430 lb·ft)@2000-2250

Engine: M57TU2D30

M57TU2D30 was introduced in 2007, making its debut in the facelifted E60 and E61.

* M57TU2D30-UL: 197 PS (145 kW; 194 hp)

* M57TU2D30-OL: 235 PS (173 kW; 232 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2750

* M57TU2D30-TOP: 286 PS (210 kW; 282 hp), 580 N·m (430 lb·ft)

Applications:

* 197 PS (145 kW; 194 hp), 400 N·m (300 lb·ft) models:

E90/E91/E92 325d

E60/E61 525d/525xd

* 231 PS (170 kW; 228 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2750 models:

E65 730d

E90/E91 325d

E90/E91 330d/330xd

* 235 PS (173 kW; 232 hp) models:

E60/E61, BMW E70, BMW E71

* 286 PS (210 kW; 282 hp), 580 N·m (430 lb·ft) models:

E60/E61 535d

E70 X5 3.0sd

E71 X6 xDrive35d

E83 X3 3.0sd

E90/E91 335d

The above models are listed for information only if you want to to make sure your engine has valves installed, please contact a competent person.

Please note that the information described above is for informational purposes only and does not claim to be reliable. Mr-key.com is not responsible for any repair work you undertake that is related to the topic described in this article.

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Cold Weather and Your Car Key Fob: What You Need to Know

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As the temperature drops and winter approaches, it’s not just your car’s engine that needs extra attention. Your car’s key fob is also affected by the cold weather, and it’s important to understand how frigid temperatures can impact its performance. In this article, we’ll explore how cold weather can affect your key fob and what you can do to prevent it from causing you frustration during the colder months. How Cold Weather Affects Your Key Fob Key fobs are small electronic devices designed to make our lives easier. They allow us to lock, unlock, and start our cars without ever having to take the key out of our pocket or bag. However, like any electronic device, key fobs are sensitive to extreme temperatures. When the temperature drops, the battery inside the key fob can be affected. Cold weather causes the battery’s chemical reactions to slow down, which can lead to a reduced charge or even a complete failure to operate. 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How to Protect Your Car’s Navigation Screen from Scratches, Glare & Fingerprints

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Car Won’t Start After Key Shell Change? Here’s What the Transponder Chip Does

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Here’s how it works: When you insert your key and turn the ignition, your car sends out a radio signal. The transponder chip in your key responds with a coded signal unique to your car. If the code is correct, the car’s computer disables the immobilizer and allows the engine to start. If the chip is missing, broken, or the code doesn’t match — the engine won’t start, even if the key blade physically turns. This system is an anti-theft measure, and it's present in most vehicles manufactured after the late 1990s. Without a functional transponder, your key may unlock the doors but it will not allow the car to start. This ensures that even if someone manages to copy the physical blade of your key, they still can’t steal your car. Why Your Key Might Not Work After Shell Replacement Changing your key shell (also called a case or housing) can seem like a simple cosmetic repair — but it’s easy to overlook the importance of transferring the transponder chip during the process. If your key no longer starts the car after a shell replacement, the most likely reason is: You forgot to move the transponder chip into the new shell. In many keys, the chip is not part of the electronics board . It’s often a tiny black or glass capsule , sometimes hidden in a small compartment within the key shell — completely separate from the buttons and battery. If you didn’t see it, it’s probably still sitting inside the old casing. Some people assume that simply moving over the circuit board and battery is enough — but without the transponder, your key won’t be recognized by the car’s immobilizer. This results in the engine failing to start, even though the buttons may still lock and unlock the doors. Symptoms of a Missing or Misplaced Transponder If your key turns in the ignition but: The car does not crank or start You see a flashing key icon or immobilizer warning on the dashboard The central locking might still work, but the engine won’t respond You hear a clicking sound but no ignition occurs Then it’s almost certainly a transponder issue. The car's system is waiting for a valid coded signal from the key — and without it, the start command is rejected. How to Fix It: What You Need to Do Here’s how to get your car running again: 1. Check Your Old Key Shell Open the old casing and look for a small black or clear capsule (typically rice-sized). That’s your transponder chip. Some are glued in place and may require careful prying. 2. Transfer the Chip Carefully remove it and insert it into the correct compartment in your new key shell. Some aftermarket shells have a specific slot for it, while others require a bit of creativity to keep it securely in place. In some cases, adhesive putty or double-sided tape can help hold it. 3. Reassemble and Test Put your key back together and try starting the car again. If the chip is correctly placed, it should work immediately — no reprogramming needed. Always test both ignition and door lock/unlock functions. What If You Lost the Chip? Unfortunately, if the chip is damaged or lost, the key will no longer be able to start your vehicle. In this case, you’ll need to: Contact a professional auto locksmith Have a new transponder chip programmed to your car’s immobilizer system Provide proof of ownership (such as your vehicle logbook or registration) in most cases Depending on the make and model of your car, programming a new chip may cost anywhere from $50 to $250 , and it typically requires special diagnostic equipment. It’s worth noting that some dealerships may charge significantly more than independent auto locksmiths — and you may have to wait longer for service. 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Replacing your key shell is a great way to refresh the look and feel of your key — but it’s vital not to overlook the importance of transferring every component, especially the transponder. Many DIY repairs are abandoned or lead to confusion simply because of this overlooked step. Fortunately, it’s one of the easiest problems to fix once you understand what to look for. If your key looks brand new but your car won’t start, don’t panic. Chances are, the solution is sitting inside your old key shell — quietly waiting to be moved over.

The Ultimate Checklist for Maintaining Your Car's Electronic Systems

The Ultimate Checklist for Maintaining Your Car's Electronic Systems

Why Regular Car Maintenance Matters Taking care of your car is more than just keeping it clean; it's about ensuring it stays reliable, safe, and efficient. When you stick to a regular maintenance schedule, you save yourself from costly repairs down the road and improve your vehicle’s lifespan. Whether you drive daily or occasionally, routine maintenance is something every car owner should prioritize. Here’s a simple breakdown of what you should check and when, so you can keep your car in top shape without breaking the bank. The Basics: Monthly Car Maintenance Checklist Think of this checklist as your car’s health routine. Performing these quick checks every month will help catch minor issues before they turn into big (and expensive) problems: Check the Oil Level : Pull out the dipstick, wipe it clean, reinsert, and check the level. Low oil can damage your engine over time. Inspect the Tire Pressure : Use a pressure gauge to ensure your tires are inflated to the recommended PSI. Under-inflated tires wear faster and decrease fuel efficiency. Top Off Windshield Washer Fluid : Keeping your windshield clean improves visibility and safety. Look for Visible Leaks : Check under your car for any oil, coolant, or fluid leaks. If you spot something unusual, it’s time to consult a professional. Test the Lights : Make sure all your lights—headlights, brake lights, and signals—are working properly. These tasks take less than 10 minutes and can help you avoid unexpected surprises on the road. Every 3,000–5,000 Miles: Oil Changes and Inspections Oil is your engine's lifeblood. Over time, oil breaks down, causing it to lose its ability to lubricate and protect your engine. Changing the oil regularly—about every 3,000 to 5,000 miles, depending on your vehicle—is crucial. What to do: Replace the oil filter alongside the oil to ensure clean circulation. Inspect the belts, hoses, and filters for any cracks or wear. Rotate your tires to promote even tread wear and extend their lifespan. Following this schedule will improve engine performance and fuel efficiency while reducing wear and tear. 6-Month Maintenance: A Deeper Look Every six months (or around 6,000–7,500 miles), it’s time to give your car a more thorough inspection. This ensures that everything continues to operate as it should: Check the Battery : Look for corrosion on the terminals and ensure the battery has enough charge. A weak battery can leave you stranded. Inspect Brake Pads and Rotors : Squealing or grinding noises may indicate it’s time for new brake pads. Safe brakes are non-negotiable. Replace Wiper Blades : Worn-out wipers reduce visibility during rain or snow. Swap them out for a clear view. Check Fluid Levels : Inspect coolant, transmission fluid, and brake fluid. Top them off if necessary or replace them according to your vehicle’s manual. Annual Car Maintenance: Keep It Running Like New Your annual maintenance routine focuses on long-term performance and reliability. Here’s what to prioritize: Replace the Air Filter : A clean air filter improves engine efficiency and fuel economy. Examine the Suspension and Alignment : If your car pulls to one side or the ride feels bumpy, it’s time to get your alignment and suspension checked. Flush and Replace Fluids : This includes coolant, brake fluid, and transmission fluid. Over time, these break down and need to be replaced to prevent damage. Inspect the Exhaust System : Check for leaks, damage, or unusual noises. A faulty exhaust can impact fuel efficiency and safety. Annual checkups ensure your car remains reliable for years to come, saving you money on unexpected repairs. Pro Tip: Pay Attention to Your Car’s Warning Signs Your car has built-in systems to tell you when something’s wrong. Ignoring these warning signs could lead to bigger issues down the road: Check Engine Light : Don’t dismiss this. It’s your car’s way of saying it needs immediate attention. Strange Noises : Grinding, squealing, or clunking sounds are often red flags for underlying problems. Vibrations or Pulling : This could signal alignment issues, tire imbalances, or suspension problems. If you notice any of these, act quickly. Addressing small concerns early can prevent expensive breakdowns later. Why Routine Car Maintenance Saves You Money Regular maintenance may seem like an extra expense, but it’s far more affordable than major repairs. For example: A routine oil change costs far less than replacing a damaged engine. Keeping tires properly inflated extends their life and improves fuel efficiency. Replacing brake pads is much cheaper than repairing damaged rotors or calipers. By investing a little time and effort into routine checks, you avoid costly breakdowns and ensure your car stays reliable.

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