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5 Signs Your Car Key Battery Needs Replacement – Don’t Get Locked Out!

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  • 5 Signs Your Car Key Battery Needs Replacement – Don’t Get Locked Out!
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05.03.2025

Have you ever pressed your car key fob multiple times without an immediate response? It’s frustrating, right? A drained key fob battery can cause unexpected issues, and if you don’t replace it in time, you might find yourself locked out of your car at the worst moment. Fortunately, there are some telltale signs that indicate your car key battery is running low – and replacing it is a quick and cost-effective fix.

Your car key is one of the most essential accessories you use daily, yet we often overlook its maintenance. While it may seem small, the proper functioning of your key fob is crucial for your convenience and security. Here are five signs that it’s time to replace your key battery before it stops working completely.

1. Your Key Works Intermittently

One of the first signs of a weakening battery is an inconsistent key fob response. If it works fine sometimes but requires multiple button presses at other times, the battery is likely running low. A new battery will restore the key’s normal sensitivity.

This issue can be especially frustrating when you're in a hurry or carrying items and need your car to unlock instantly. If you notice your key fob working intermittently, don’t wait until you get locked out—replace the battery promptly.

2. The Signal Range Has Decreased

A brand-new car key fob allows you to lock and unlock your vehicle from a considerable distance. If you’ve noticed that you now need to be much closer for the key to work, this is a clear sign that the battery is weakening.

Modern key fobs can control your vehicle from as far as 15 meters or more. When you find yourself needing to be right next to the car for it to respond, it’s time to replace the battery. A weak signal can lead to access and ignition problems, which can be inconvenient in daily use.

3. You Need to Press the Buttons Harder

A properly functioning car key should respond immediately to a simple press of a button. If you need to press harder or hold the button longer for it to work, the battery is no longer providing enough power to send a strong signal.

Beyond just being inconvenient, this can also damage the key fob itself due to increased pressure on the electronic components. Replacing the battery will help you avoid additional wear and tear and ensure your key works smoothly without extra effort.

4. Your Car No Longer Recognizes the Key

For vehicles with push-button start systems, the key fob must be close enough for the car to detect it. If your car struggles to recognize the key and you have to bring it closer to the dashboard or ignition button, this is a clear sign of a low battery.

This can be particularly annoying on rainy days or when you’re in a hurry. A properly functioning key fob should allow seamless use of your vehicle without delays or the need to adjust its position.

5. The Key Stops Working Completely

If your key fob suddenly stops working and you have ruled out other possible causes, such as a damaged circuit or faulty buttons, the battery is most likely completely drained.

Before you panic and assume the key fob is broken, try replacing the battery first. It’s a simple and inexpensive solution that restores your key’s functionality in seconds.

How to Replace Your Car Key Battery

Changing your car key battery is usually a straightforward task that only requires a small screwdriver and a new CR2032 battery. Locate the seam along the key fob’s edge and carefully pry it open. Remove the old battery and observe its position, then insert the new battery in the same orientation.

In less than five minutes, your key will work like new again. There’s no need to spend money on a replacement key when a battery swap is a quick and affordable fix.

Don’t Wait Until It’s Too Late!

Preventative maintenance is key to avoiding unnecessary hassles. If your key is showing signs of weakness, don’t ignore them! Replace the battery in time and ensure your vehicle operates flawlessly.

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Effects of malfunctioning valves: Swirl valves are stuck in open position: Deterioration of exhaust gas performance at lower speeds. Swirl valves are stuck in closed position: Approximate power loss of 10% at high engine speeds. How swirl flaps work: Performance characteristics: The vortex valves are in the closed position, at low engine speeds and small amounts of fuel injected (controlled by the ECU card). They open under the following conditions: coolant temperature <14 ° C OR * fuel quantity> 24 mg OR engine speed 2250 rpm OR inlet air temperature <-5 ° C BMW and Pierburg have decided to produce diesel engines with metal vortex valves. The speed at which the pistons in the diesel engine operate is at least 60 rpm, so a sucked vortex valve will break and cause a number of damages inside the engine. In most cases, one or more pistons are severely damaged, as a bonus you get valves, in some cases a head or turbocharger. And this combination with a BMW engine is like a cumulative jackpot 🙂 In 2004, BMW began work on the problem and improved the design, however, a number of owners reported ongoing problems in this area. The solution to this problem is by removing the vortex valves and plugging, which does not affect the performance of the engine and at the same time, you can safely pass the exhaust test. Engines: M47 (136hp VP44 fuel pump) has no valves. M47N common rail engine (including M47N / M47TU / M47TUD20) (150hp. Face lift model from 2001 -) has valves. M57 engines (M57D) (525d & 187hp. 330d) cars with manual transmission do not have valves, but those with automatic have. M57N engines (M57TUD) (525d & 330d 204hp) have vortex valves. Ruined swirl flaps: The plugs that replace the vortex valves are easy to find on the internet, but you can also find them here on our website. Typical plugs: Disassembly of vortex valves: The vortex valves can be safely dismantled and in most cases if they are removed properly no loss of power is felt. Final list of models for which vortex valves are installed: Engine: M47N/M47TU/M47TUD20 Applications: * 110 kW (148 hp) and 330 N·m (243 lb·ft) o E46 320d 2001-2005 o E83 X3 2.0d (up to end of 2006) Engine: M47TU2D20 The engine was updated again in 2004 as the M47TU2D20. Still at 1995 cc, it produced more power across the range. Applications: * 120 kW (161 hp) and 340 N·m (251 lb·ft) E60/E61 520d E87 120d E90/E91 320d E83 X3 2.0d (end of 2006 onwards) Engine: M57/M57D25 M57D25 was introduced in 2000. Applications: * 166 PS (122 kW; 164 hp) at 4000 rpm, 350 N·m (260 lb·ft) at 2000-2500 rpm with a 4750 rpm redline, models: 2000-2003 E39 525d *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY* Engine: M57N/M57TU/M57TUD25 M57TUD25 was introduced in 2004. Applications: * 177 PS (130 kW; 175 hp) at 4000 rpm, 400 N·m (300 lb·ft) at 2000-2750 rpm models: E60/E61 525d Engine: M57/M57D30 M57D30, also called M57D29, was introduced in 1998. Applications: * 184 PS (135 kW; 181 hp)@4000, 390 N·m (290 lb·ft)@1750-3200 models: E39 530d *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY* E46 330d/330xd *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY* * 184 PS (135 kW; 181 hp)@4000, 410 N·m (300 lb·ft)@2000-3000 models: E38 730d *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY* E53 X5 3.0d * 193 PS (142 kW; 190 hp)@4000, 410 N·m (300 lb·ft)@1750-3000 models: E38 730d E39 530d Engine: M57N/M57TU/M57TUD30 M57TUD30 was introduced in 2002. It originally produced 160 kW (215 hp) at 4000 rpm and 500 N·m (370 lb·ft) at 2000-2750 rpm, but was tweaked for 150 kW (201 hp) at 4000 rpm and 410 N·m (300 lb·ft) at 1500-3250 rpm for 2003 and again for 200 kW (268 hp) at 4000 rpm and 560 N·m (410 lb·ft) at 2000-2250 rpm in 2004. Applications: * 204 PS (150 kW; 201 hp)@4000, 410 N·m (300 lb·ft)@1500-3250 models: E46 330d/330Cd/330xd E83 X3 3.0d * 218 PS (160 kW; 215 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2750 models: E53 X5 3.0d E60/E61 530d/530xd E65 730d * 272 PS (200 kW; 268 hp)@4000, 560 N·m (410 lb·ft)@2000-2250 E60/E61 535d * 245 PS (180 kW; 242 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2250 * 286 PS (210 kW; 282 hp)@4000, 580 N·m (430 lb·ft)@2000-2250 Engine: M57TU2D30 M57TU2D30 was introduced in 2007, making its debut in the facelifted E60 and E61. * M57TU2D30-UL: 197 PS (145 kW; 194 hp) * M57TU2D30-OL: 235 PS (173 kW; 232 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2750 * M57TU2D30-TOP: 286 PS (210 kW; 282 hp), 580 N·m (430 lb·ft) Applications: * 197 PS (145 kW; 194 hp), 400 N·m (300 lb·ft) models: E90/E91/E92 325d E60/E61 525d/525xd * 231 PS (170 kW; 228 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2750 models: E65 730d E90/E91 325d E90/E91 330d/330xd * 235 PS (173 kW; 232 hp) models: E60/E61, BMW E70, BMW E71 * 286 PS (210 kW; 282 hp), 580 N·m (430 lb·ft) models: E60/E61 535d E70 X5 3.0sd E71 X6 xDrive35d E83 X3 3.0sd E90/E91 335d The above models are listed for information only if you want to to make sure your engine has valves installed, please contact a competent person. Please note that the information described above is for informational purposes only and does not claim to be reliable. Mr-key.com is not responsible for any repair work you undertake that is related to the topic described in this article.

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