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How to Spot a Car Key Cloning Scam: Warning Signs and Prevention Tips

Car theft doesn’t always involve smashing windows or forced ignition anymore. These days, all it might take is a thief standing a few feet away from you — equipped with a small electronic device and a plan to clone your car key without ever touching it.

Welcome to the age of car key cloning. Fast, silent, and nearly untraceable, this high-tech method of theft is on the rise, and many drivers don’t even know it exists. In this article, we’ll walk you through how it works, what red flags to watch for, and how to protect yourself from becoming the next victim.

What Is Car Key Cloning and How Does It Work?

Car key cloning is the process of copying the signal emitted by your key fob and using that signal to unlock and even start your car. Thieves use tools like signal amplifiers, cloning software, or plug-in programming devices to mimic the electronic code stored in your key.

In most cases, they don’t even need to touch your key. They just need to be close enough — in a parking lot, next to your front door, or even in a restaurant — to intercept the signal when you lock or unlock your car. That signal is then copied and stored on another device or blank key fob.

In some instances, criminals will break into your car and access the OBD port (the vehicle’s diagnostic system) to directly program a new key.

This means they can drive off in your car with a cloned key, and you may not even know how they got in.

Why This Scam Is Spreading So Quickly

Key cloning was once limited to high-end criminal operations, but now the tools are cheap, easy to find, and widely available online. Some fob cloning devices are openly sold on marketplaces, making it simple for even low-level criminals to learn the trade.

A cloned key leaves no trace of forced entry, no damage, and often no evidence — making it harder for insurance claims to be validated and for stolen cars to be recovered.

The rise in keyless entry systems means millions of drivers are potential targets, whether they realize it or not.

According to The Sun, cloning devices sold online can program new keys in under 30 minutes.

5 Warning Signs You May Be Targeted

Strange behavior from your key fob – If the range suddenly becomes shorter or the buttons stop responding consistently, your signal may have been intercepted.

Unfamiliar devices or people near your car – Be cautious if you see people lingering nearby with phone-like devices or bags near your car.

Your car unlocks by itself – This could mean someone nearby is mimicking your key’s signal.

You find marks or loose panels near the OBD port – Some thieves break in to plug in programming devices.

You lose access to your spare key – It’s possible a third key was added to your system, locking the others out.

How to Prevent Car Key Cloning

While key cloning can be hard to detect, it's relatively easy to prevent if you're proactive. Here’s how to stay protected:

Use a Faraday pouch: These small, signal-blocking cases prevent your key’s signal from being intercepted when not in use.

Don’t store keys near doors or windows: Keep your keys at least 5–10 meters from exterior walls.

Disable keyless entry if possible: Some vehicles allow you to turn off proximity unlocking in the settings.

Invest in physical security: Steering wheel locks, OBD port locks, and even wheel clamps act as strong deterrents.

Audit your key system: A locksmith can check how many keys are programmed to your vehicle and delete unauthorized ones.

If you're ever in doubt, replace your key and reprogram your system. It may cost a bit up front, but it's cheaper than replacing a stolen car.

Need a secure replacement key or a Faraday pouch? Browse our car key and accessories collection for trusted, secure options.

Know the Risk, Beat the Scam

Car key cloning scams are evolving — and fast. The combination of wireless technology, smart cars, and openly available tools has created the perfect storm for high-tech theft. But with a little awareness and some simple precautions, you can stay one step ahead.

Don’t wait until it happens to you. Know the signs, protect your keys, and take action now — because in a world of silent theft, what you don’t see can hurt you.

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Top 10 Most Common Car Key Problems (And How to Fix Them)

Top 10 Most Common Car Key Problems (And How to Fix Them)

Car keys have changed dramatically in the last 20 years. What was once a simple mechanical tool has become an essential electronic device packed with functionality. From remote locking and trunk opening to push-start ignition systems and proximity sensors, today's car keys do a lot more than just turn in the ignition. However, this increased functionality also means more components that can fail—and when they do, the inconvenience can be frustrating or even immobilizing. For many drivers, key problems seem to come out of nowhere. A button stops working, the car doesn’t start, or a backup key won’t respond. Understanding the most common issues with modern car keys can help you avoid unnecessary trips to the dealership and identify quick fixes at home. Below, we’ll explore the ten most frequent car key problems, how to recognize the symptoms, and what steps to take to get your key working again—often without spending a fortune. 1. The Key Fob Has Stopped Responding One of the most common complaints drivers have is that their key fob simply stops responding. The remote may no longer lock or unlock the vehicle, the trunk button might stop working, or there may be no visible LED indicator when you press a button. In most cases, the culprit is a dead battery—something that’s inexpensive and easy to replace. Most key fobs use a CR2032 coin-cell battery, which can typically be changed with a small screwdriver or a plastic pry tool. If replacing the battery doesn’t bring the fob back to life, the issue may be with the internal electronics. Moisture, drops, and general wear over time can corrode or damage the tiny circuit board inside. In such cases, replacing the outer shell might not be enough—you may need to invest in a full replacement or transplant the electronics into a new case if only the buttons or housing are damaged. 2. The Car Doesn't Detect the Key Another increasingly common issue—especially in vehicles with push-to-start systems—is that the car doesn’t detect the key, even though it's inside the cabin or close to the sensor. You might see a warning on the dashboard such as “Key Not Detected” or “No Key Present.” This can happen due to a nearly dead battery in the fob, radio frequency interference from nearby electronics, or a fault in the key’s transponder chip. The first step is always to replace the key’s battery. If the issue persists, try holding the key closer to the start button or steering column—some vehicles have hidden backup sensors that detect the key at close range in emergencies. If none of that works, the problem could be with the chip inside the fob or the vehicle’s receiver, requiring diagnosis by a qualified locksmith or dealership technician. 3. The Key Turns in the Ignition, But Nothing Happens This issue is particularly frustrating: you insert your key into the ignition, it turns freely, but the car doesn’t respond at all. Often, this is a sign that the vehicle’s immobilizer system isn’t recognizing the key. Modern car keys contain a small RFID chip that communicates with the car’s anti-theft system. If this chip is damaged or unprogrammed, the vehicle will not start—no matter how well the mechanical part of the key works. Try using a spare key if you have one. If the backup works, you’ll know the issue lies within the primary key. If neither key works, the problem could be with the vehicle’s receiver, antenna ring, or immobilizer control unit. A professional diagnostic scan is typically needed to pinpoint the cause. 4. The Key Won’t Turn in the Door or Ignition If your key suddenly stops turning in the door or ignition cylinder, the cause may be as simple as wear and tear. Key blades—especially older ones—can become worn down over time, resulting in poor contact with the internal pins in the lock. Dirt, rust, or debris inside the lock can also prevent the key from turning, particularly if the vehicle hasn’t been manually unlocked in a while. First, try using a backup key. If it turns smoothly, your main key is likely worn. If both keys struggle, apply a non-residue contact cleaner or lock lubricant to clean out the cylinder. For long-term solutions, you may need to replace either the key blade or the ignition/door lock entirely. Don’t attempt to force the key, as this could cause the blade to bend or snap inside the lock. 5. The Buttons Feel Mushy or Stuck Physical wear is one of the most overlooked causes of key fob failure. Over time, the rubber buttons on your remote can wear down, become loose, or stop pressing properly. You might notice that only one or two buttons respond, or that they must be pressed harder than usual to work. In many cases, the outer shell has simply degraded, while the electronic board inside remains perfectly functional. The most effective fix is to replace the key shell. These replacement housings are inexpensive and widely available for most major vehicle brands. Simply open the fob, transfer the circuit board, battery, and buttons into the new shell, and your key will feel and function like new again—without any need for reprogramming. 6. Your Key Fob Got Wet Water and electronics rarely mix well, and key fobs are no exception. Whether your key was left out in the rain, fell into a puddle, or went through the washing machine, moisture can quickly short-circuit the internal components or lead to long-term corrosion. If your key gets wet, act fast. Remove the battery immediately and open the case to allow air circulation. Use desiccants such as silica gel packets to dry out the internal parts—avoid using rice, which is far less effective. If corrosion is visible, gently clean it with isopropyl alcohol and a cotton swab. If the key still doesn’t work after drying, the damage may be permanent and require replacement. 7. The Key Shell Is Cracked or Broken Keys endure daily use, pocket pressure, accidental drops, and exposure to the elements. Over time, the plastic casing of the fob can crack, split, or completely fall apart, leaving internal electronics vulnerable. Although a broken shell doesn’t necessarily mean the key is non-functional, it can make usage difficult and risky. Thankfully, key shell replacements are an easy and budget-friendly solution. You can often reuse all your original components, including the battery, buttons, and transponder chip. Replacing just the shell avoids costly reprogramming and restores your key’s durability and appearance. 8. The Key Still Doesn’t Work After Replacing the Battery Replacing a fob battery is supposed to solve the problem—but sometimes it doesn’t. If your remote remains unresponsive after a battery change, you may have installed the wrong type of battery, inserted it incorrectly, or failed to clean the contact points inside the fob. In some cases, the circuit board itself may be damaged or shorted out. Double-check that the battery type matches the original (commonly CR2032). Ensure it’s properly seated and that the metal contact tabs are clean and secure. If the problem continues, the issue likely lies with the circuit board, and the fob may need to be replaced entirely. 9. You’ve Lost Your Only Key Few things are more stressful than losing your only car key—especially if you don’t have a spare. Most modern vehicles require the key to be electronically paired with the car, so simply cutting a new blade isn’t enough. You’ll need your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN), proof of ownership, and a visit to either a dealership or a certified locksmith. Some aftermarket services can offer replacement keys that are compatible with your vehicle at a lower price than the dealership. Once the new key is cut and programmed, be sure to create and safely store a backup key to avoid being locked out in the future. 10. The Spare Key Doesn’t Work Anymore Spare keys are often kept in drawers or glove compartments for years without use. When finally needed, many drivers are surprised to find that the backup key doesn’t work. Batteries may have died, circuit boards may have degraded, or the key may have fallen out of sync with the vehicle. Start by replacing the battery. If that doesn’t work, the spare may need to be reprogrammed to the car. Keeping your spare key in a safe, climate-controlled environment and testing it occasionally is the best way to ensure it's ready when needed. Car key problems can range from mildly inconvenient to seriously disruptive—but the majority are entirely fixable, often at home and at minimal cost. Understanding the common causes behind these issues allows you to respond quickly, avoid dealership prices, and extend the life of your keys. At mr-key.com , you’ll find a wide selection of replacement key shells , batteries , blades , and complete electronic keys compatible with dozens of vehicle brands. With proper care and the right tools, you can keep your key in excellent condition and avoid ever being stranded due to a faulty fob.

How to Rescue Your Car Key After It Gets Wet: A Practical Guide

How to Rescue Your Car Key After It Gets Wet: A Practical Guide

The Modern Dilemma: Wet Car Keys and How to Fix Them Imagine this: you’re caught in an unexpected downpour, and your car key slips from your hand, landing straight into a puddle. Or perhaps you accidentally leave your keys in your pocket while diving into a swimming pool. Whatever the scenario, the moment you realize your car key has been submerged in water can be panic-inducing. With modern car keys embedded with electronic chips and sophisticated technology, exposure to moisture can mean more than just a temporary inconvenience—it could leave you locked out or facing expensive repairs. But before you rush to replace your key, there are several steps you can take to salvage it. Understanding the Risks: What Happens When a Car Key Gets Wet? Car keys today are more than just metal; many include electronic transponders and remote control systems that communicate with the vehicle’s ignition. Water exposure can lead to: Short circuits: Moisture can cause electronic components to malfunction or fail entirely. Corrosion: Over time, water can lead to rust and degradation of internal circuits. Battery failure: Many car keys contain small batteries, and water exposure can lead to leakage or loss of function. While traditional metal keys are less affected by water, smart keys and key fobs are vulnerable. Acting quickly can often save your key from irreparable damage. Immediate Steps to Take When Your Car Key Gets Wet If your car key has been exposed to water, time is of the essence. Here’s what you need to do: Retrieve the key from the water as quickly as possible and wipe off excess moisture using a dry, absorbent cloth or paper towel. Remove the battery if possible since many car key fobs have removable batteries; check your car manual for instructions. If the battery is wet, replace it with a new one rather than attempting to dry and reuse it. Disassemble the key fob if safe to do so, carefully opening the casing to allow internal components to dry. Avoid using force or tools that might damage delicate parts. Use silica gel or rice for drying—place the key fob in a container of silica gel packets (often found in new shoe boxes or electronics packaging) for 24-48 hours; if silica gel is unavailable, uncooked rice can work as an alternative, though it may not be as effective. Avoid using direct heat—do not use hairdryers, microwaves, or ovens to speed up drying, as high temperatures can warp plastic components and damage circuits; instead, allow the key to air dry naturally in a warm, ventilated space. Finally, test the key once you’re confident it is dry by reinserting the battery and testing it on your car; if the key does not work, it may require reprogramming or replacement. When to Seek Professional Help If your key remains unresponsive despite thorough drying, it may have suffered internal damage. In such cases, consider these options: Contact your car manufacturer or dealership—they can provide a replacement key or attempt to reprogram the existing one. Visit a professional locksmith—many automotive locksmiths specialize in repairing and reprogramming electronic keys at a lower cost than dealerships. Check your car insurance policy—some policies cover lost or damaged keys, potentially reducing replacement costs. Global Trends in Key Fob Durability and Waterproofing Car manufacturers are increasingly designing key fobs to withstand water exposure. For example, Tesla’s Model 3 key card eliminates the need for traditional keys by using a waterproof RFID card, Toyota and BMW have introduced water-resistant key fobs, minimizing the risk of damage, and future innovations may include biometric key technology, reducing dependency on physical devices altogether. As technology advances, water-resistant key designs may become the norm, reducing the stress of accidental spills or submersion. Preventative Measures: How to Protect Your Car Key from Water Damage To avoid future incidents, consider these preventative steps: Use a waterproof key case: Available online, these cases provide a protective barrier against water exposure. Designate a dry storage spot: Avoid leaving keys in pockets that may go through the wash or near pools and sinks. Invest in a spare key: Having a backup key can be a lifesaver if your primary key is damaged beyond repair. Check for manufacturer upgrades: Some car brands offer upgraded, water-resistant key fobs for an additional fee. Act Quickly to Save Your Key A wet car key doesn’t necessarily mean it’s the end of the road. By acting swiftly and following proper drying techniques, you may be able to rescue your key without costly replacements. As car technology evolves, so too will key durability, but for now, a little caution and quick thinking can go a long way. If you frequently find yourself around water, taking preventative measures can save time, money, and frustration.

The Top 5 Car Key Emergencies and How to Handle Them

The Top 5 Car Key Emergencies and How to Handle Them

When it comes to car keys , emergencies often strike at the worst possible moments. Whether you’re rushing to work, stuck at a grocery store, or stranded in an unfamiliar location, knowing how to handle these situations can save you time, stress, and money. Below are the five most common car key emergencies and practical solutions to get you back on track. 1. Locked Out of Your Car? Here’s What to Do Locking your keys inside your car is a common yet frustrating mistake. The good news? There are ways to regain access without breaking the bank—or your window. Check for Spare Keys: If you have a spare key, now is the time to use it. Always keep one in a secure but accessible location, like with a trusted friend or at home. Use a Slim Jim or Unlocking Tool: While not ideal for everyone, these tools can work if you’re familiar with their use. However, be cautious to avoid damaging your car. Call a Locksmith or Roadside Assistance: Professional services can unlock your car safely and quickly. While it might cost you, it’s often cheaper than repairing a broken window. Pro Tip: Many modern cars come with apps or key fobs that allow remote unlocking. Familiarize yourself with these features beforehand. 2. Key Stuck in the Ignition? Don’t Panic A key stuck in the ignition can leave you feeling helpless, but with the right steps, you can often fix the issue yourself. Check the Gear Position: Ensure the car is in “Park” or “Neutral.” Many cars prevent key removal unless the gear is correctly positioned. Inspect for Steering Wheel Lock: Wiggle the steering wheel gently while trying to turn and remove the key. A locked steering wheel might be the culprit. Lubricate the Lock: Use a small amount of graphite lubricant to loosen the ignition lock. Avoid oil-based lubricants as they can attract dirt. Seek Professional Help: If the key is still stuck, call a locksmith or mechanic to prevent further damage. 3. Lost Your Key Fob Without a Spare? Act Fast Losing your key fob with no backup can be a nightmare, especially if your car relies on it entirely. Contact a Locksmith: Many locksmiths can program a new key fob on the spot, often at a lower cost than going to a dealership. Order a Replacement: Some car manufacturers allow you to order a replacement key fob online. Be prepared to provide proof of ownership. Preventative Measures: Always have a spare key fob and store it in a safe location. Consider investing in a key tracker to avoid future mishaps. 4. Dealing with a Wet or Damaged Key Fob? Accidents happen—maybe your key fob went through the wash or got drenched in the rain. The good news? Not all is lost. Dry It Out: Remove the battery and place the key fob in a bag of rice or silica gel to absorb moisture. Let it sit for at least 24 hours. Replace the Battery: Water damage can short-circuit the battery, so replace it with a new one after drying the fob. Test the Fob: After reassembling, check if the fob functions properly. If not, you may need to replace it or have it repaired by a professional. 5. Dead Key Fob Battery in a Remote Location? A dead key fob battery can leave you stranded, but this issue is often easier to resolve than you might think. Check for Hidden Features: Many cars have an emergency key hidden in the fob itself. This can manually unlock the door. Push-Button Start Workaround: Some cars allow you to start the engine by holding the dead fob close to the start button. Carry a Spare Battery: Always keep a spare CR-type battery in your glove box for quick replacements. These are inexpensive and widely available. Pro Tip: Familiarize yourself with your car’s manual to learn emergency procedures for dead key fobs. General Tips to Prevent Car Key Emergencies Preparation is your best defense against car key emergencies. Follow these tips to avoid getting caught off guard: Keep a Spare Key Handy: Store it at home, with a trusted person, or in a secure, hidden location. Invest in a Key Tracker: Attach a Bluetooth-enabled tracker to your key fob for easy location via your smartphone. Regular Maintenance: Replace key fob batteries proactively and inspect your keys for wear and tear. Learn Emergency Features: Understand your car’s built-in features, such as remote unlocking or hidden keys, to save time in emergencies. Stay Prepared, Stay Calm Car key emergencies don’t have to derail your day. With a little preparation and knowledge, you can tackle these common scenarios with confidence. Whether it’s unlocking your car, replacing a battery, or dealing with a damaged key fob, taking proactive measures ensures you’re always one step ahead.

What You Need To Know About BMW  Swirl Flaps and How To Solve The Problem With Them

What You Need To Know About BMW Swirl Flaps and How To Solve The Problem With Them

Swirl flaps are a BMW system that has been introduced to help burn the fuel mixture in the cylinder better due to the fact that diesel engines do not have throttle valves and it is not possible to adjust the air-fuel ratio. A diesel engine without vortex valves operates between a poor and a rich fuel mixture, because the only way to regulate it is through fuel injection. Design of the first generation swirl flaps that are made of made of metal. Unfortunately, swirl flaps are responsible for countless damaged engines and costly repairs due to design errors or metal fatigue. Once damaged, the cylinder sucks them in and causes great damage. This is how damaged valves damage the cylinder. Typical swirl flaps suction damage. The vortex valves are positioned in the inlet and are controlled by vacuum (DDE 4.0) or electrically (DDE5.0 / DDE6.4) by the engine ECU. Effects of malfunctioning valves: Swirl valves are stuck in open position: Deterioration of exhaust gas performance at lower speeds. Swirl valves are stuck in closed position: Approximate power loss of 10% at high engine speeds. How swirl flaps work: Performance characteristics: The vortex valves are in the closed position, at low engine speeds and small amounts of fuel injected (controlled by the ECU card). They open under the following conditions: coolant temperature <14 ° C OR * fuel quantity> 24 mg OR engine speed 2250 rpm OR inlet air temperature <-5 ° C BMW and Pierburg have decided to produce diesel engines with metal vortex valves. The speed at which the pistons in the diesel engine operate is at least 60 rpm, so a sucked vortex valve will break and cause a number of damages inside the engine. In most cases, one or more pistons are severely damaged, as a bonus you get valves, in some cases a head or turbocharger. And this combination with a BMW engine is like a cumulative jackpot 🙂 In 2004, BMW began work on the problem and improved the design, however, a number of owners reported ongoing problems in this area. The solution to this problem is by removing the vortex valves and plugging, which does not affect the performance of the engine and at the same time, you can safely pass the exhaust test. Engines: M47 (136hp VP44 fuel pump) has no valves. M47N common rail engine (including M47N / M47TU / M47TUD20) (150hp. Face lift model from 2001 -) has valves. M57 engines (M57D) (525d & 187hp. 330d) cars with manual transmission do not have valves, but those with automatic have. M57N engines (M57TUD) (525d & 330d 204hp) have vortex valves. Ruined swirl flaps: The plugs that replace the vortex valves are easy to find on the internet, but you can also find them here on our website. Typical plugs: Disassembly of vortex valves: The vortex valves can be safely dismantled and in most cases if they are removed properly no loss of power is felt. Final list of models for which vortex valves are installed: Engine: M47N/M47TU/M47TUD20 Applications: * 110 kW (148 hp) and 330 N·m (243 lb·ft) o E46 320d 2001-2005 o E83 X3 2.0d (up to end of 2006) Engine: M47TU2D20 The engine was updated again in 2004 as the M47TU2D20. Still at 1995 cc, it produced more power across the range. Applications: * 120 kW (161 hp) and 340 N·m (251 lb·ft) E60/E61 520d E87 120d E90/E91 320d E83 X3 2.0d (end of 2006 onwards) Engine: M57/M57D25 M57D25 was introduced in 2000. Applications: * 166 PS (122 kW; 164 hp) at 4000 rpm, 350 N·m (260 lb·ft) at 2000-2500 rpm with a 4750 rpm redline, models: 2000-2003 E39 525d *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY* Engine: M57N/M57TU/M57TUD25 M57TUD25 was introduced in 2004. Applications: * 177 PS (130 kW; 175 hp) at 4000 rpm, 400 N·m (300 lb·ft) at 2000-2750 rpm models: E60/E61 525d Engine: M57/M57D30 M57D30, also called M57D29, was introduced in 1998. Applications: * 184 PS (135 kW; 181 hp)@4000, 390 N·m (290 lb·ft)@1750-3200 models: E39 530d *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY* E46 330d/330xd *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY* * 184 PS (135 kW; 181 hp)@4000, 410 N·m (300 lb·ft)@2000-3000 models: E38 730d *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY* E53 X5 3.0d * 193 PS (142 kW; 190 hp)@4000, 410 N·m (300 lb·ft)@1750-3000 models: E38 730d E39 530d Engine: M57N/M57TU/M57TUD30 M57TUD30 was introduced in 2002. It originally produced 160 kW (215 hp) at 4000 rpm and 500 N·m (370 lb·ft) at 2000-2750 rpm, but was tweaked for 150 kW (201 hp) at 4000 rpm and 410 N·m (300 lb·ft) at 1500-3250 rpm for 2003 and again for 200 kW (268 hp) at 4000 rpm and 560 N·m (410 lb·ft) at 2000-2250 rpm in 2004. Applications: * 204 PS (150 kW; 201 hp)@4000, 410 N·m (300 lb·ft)@1500-3250 models: E46 330d/330Cd/330xd E83 X3 3.0d * 218 PS (160 kW; 215 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2750 models: E53 X5 3.0d E60/E61 530d/530xd E65 730d * 272 PS (200 kW; 268 hp)@4000, 560 N·m (410 lb·ft)@2000-2250 E60/E61 535d * 245 PS (180 kW; 242 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2250 * 286 PS (210 kW; 282 hp)@4000, 580 N·m (430 lb·ft)@2000-2250 Engine: M57TU2D30 M57TU2D30 was introduced in 2007, making its debut in the facelifted E60 and E61. * M57TU2D30-UL: 197 PS (145 kW; 194 hp) * M57TU2D30-OL: 235 PS (173 kW; 232 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2750 * M57TU2D30-TOP: 286 PS (210 kW; 282 hp), 580 N·m (430 lb·ft) Applications: * 197 PS (145 kW; 194 hp), 400 N·m (300 lb·ft) models: E90/E91/E92 325d E60/E61 525d/525xd * 231 PS (170 kW; 228 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2750 models: E65 730d E90/E91 325d E90/E91 330d/330xd * 235 PS (173 kW; 232 hp) models: E60/E61, BMW E70, BMW E71 * 286 PS (210 kW; 282 hp), 580 N·m (430 lb·ft) models: E60/E61 535d E70 X5 3.0sd E71 X6 xDrive35d E83 X3 3.0sd E90/E91 335d The above models are listed for information only if you want to to make sure your engine has valves installed, please contact a competent person. Please note that the information described above is for informational purposes only and does not claim to be reliable. Mr-key.com is not responsible for any repair work you undertake that is related to the topic described in this article.

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