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How to Spot a Car Key Cloning Scam: Warning Signs and Prevention Tips

Car theft doesn’t always involve smashing windows or forced ignition anymore. These days, all it might take is a thief standing a few feet away from you — equipped with a small electronic device and a plan to clone your car key without ever touching it.

Welcome to the age of car key cloning. Fast, silent, and nearly untraceable, this high-tech method of theft is on the rise, and many drivers don’t even know it exists. In this article, we’ll walk you through how it works, what red flags to watch for, and how to protect yourself from becoming the next victim.

What Is Car Key Cloning and How Does It Work?

Car key cloning is the process of copying the signal emitted by your key fob and using that signal to unlock and even start your car. Thieves use tools like signal amplifiers, cloning software, or plug-in programming devices to mimic the electronic code stored in your key.

In most cases, they don’t even need to touch your key. They just need to be close enough — in a parking lot, next to your front door, or even in a restaurant — to intercept the signal when you lock or unlock your car. That signal is then copied and stored on another device or blank key fob.

In some instances, criminals will break into your car and access the OBD port (the vehicle’s diagnostic system) to directly program a new key.

This means they can drive off in your car with a cloned key, and you may not even know how they got in.

Why This Scam Is Spreading So Quickly

Key cloning was once limited to high-end criminal operations, but now the tools are cheap, easy to find, and widely available online. Some fob cloning devices are openly sold on marketplaces, making it simple for even low-level criminals to learn the trade.

A cloned key leaves no trace of forced entry, no damage, and often no evidence — making it harder for insurance claims to be validated and for stolen cars to be recovered.

The rise in keyless entry systems means millions of drivers are potential targets, whether they realize it or not.

According to The Sun, cloning devices sold online can program new keys in under 30 minutes.

5 Warning Signs You May Be Targeted

Strange behavior from your key fob – If the range suddenly becomes shorter or the buttons stop responding consistently, your signal may have been intercepted.

Unfamiliar devices or people near your car – Be cautious if you see people lingering nearby with phone-like devices or bags near your car.

Your car unlocks by itself – This could mean someone nearby is mimicking your key’s signal.

You find marks or loose panels near the OBD port – Some thieves break in to plug in programming devices.

You lose access to your spare key – It’s possible a third key was added to your system, locking the others out.

How to Prevent Car Key Cloning

While key cloning can be hard to detect, it's relatively easy to prevent if you're proactive. Here’s how to stay protected:

Use a Faraday pouch: These small, signal-blocking cases prevent your key’s signal from being intercepted when not in use.

Don’t store keys near doors or windows: Keep your keys at least 5–10 meters from exterior walls.

Disable keyless entry if possible: Some vehicles allow you to turn off proximity unlocking in the settings.

Invest in physical security: Steering wheel locks, OBD port locks, and even wheel clamps act as strong deterrents.

Audit your key system: A locksmith can check how many keys are programmed to your vehicle and delete unauthorized ones.

If you're ever in doubt, replace your key and reprogram your system. It may cost a bit up front, but it's cheaper than replacing a stolen car.

Need a secure replacement key or a Faraday pouch? Browse our car key and accessories collection for trusted, secure options.

Know the Risk, Beat the Scam

Car key cloning scams are evolving — and fast. The combination of wireless technology, smart cars, and openly available tools has created the perfect storm for high-tech theft. But with a little awareness and some simple precautions, you can stay one step ahead.

Don’t wait until it happens to you. Know the signs, protect your keys, and take action now — because in a world of silent theft, what you don’t see can hurt you.

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What You Need To Know About BMW  Swirl Flaps and How To Solve The Problem With Them

What You Need To Know About BMW  Swirl Flaps and How To Solve The Problem With Them

Swirl flaps are a BMW system that has been introduced to help burn the fuel mixture in the cylinder better due to the fact that diesel engines do not have throttle valves and it is not possible to adjust the air-fuel ratio. A diesel engine without vortex valves operates between a poor and a rich fuel mixture, because the only way to regulate it is through fuel injection. Design of the first generation swirl flaps that are made of made of metal. Unfortunately, swirl flaps are responsible for countless damaged engines and costly repairs due to design errors or metal fatigue. Once damaged, the cylinder sucks them in and causes great damage. This is how damaged valves damage the cylinder. Typical swirl flaps suction damage. The vortex valves are positioned in the inlet and are controlled by vacuum (DDE 4.0) or electrically (DDE5.0 / DDE6.4) by the engine ECU. Effects of malfunctioning valves: Swirl valves are stuck in open position: Deterioration of exhaust gas performance at lower speeds. Swirl valves are stuck in closed position: Approximate power loss of 10% at high engine speeds. How swirl flaps work: Performance characteristics: The vortex valves are in the closed position, at low engine speeds and small amounts of fuel injected (controlled by the ECU card). They open under the following conditions: coolant temperature <14 ° C OR * fuel quantity> 24 mg OR 2. engine speed 2250 rpm OR 3. inlet air temperature <-5 ° C. BMW and Pierburg have decided to produce diesel engines with metal vortex valves. The speed at which the pistons in the diesel engine operate is at least 60 rpm, so a sucked vortex valve will break and cause a number of damages inside the engine. In most cases, one or more pistons are severely damaged, as a bonus you get valves, in some cases a head or turbocharger. And this combination with a BMW engine is like a cumulative jackpot 🙂 In 2004, BMW began work on the problem and improved the design, however, a number of owners reported ongoing problems in this area. The solution to this problem is by removing the vortex valves and plugging, which does not affect the performance of the engine and at the same time, you can safely pass the exhaust test. Engines: M47 (136hp VP44 fuel pump) has no valves. M47N common rail engine (including M47N / M47TU / M47TUD20) (150hp. Face lift model from 2001 -) has valves. M57 engines (M57D) (525d & 187hp. 330d) cars with manual transmission do not have valves, but those with automatic have. M57N engines (M57TUD) (525d & 330d 204hp) have vortex valves. Ruined swirl flapss: The plugs that replace the vortex valves are easy to find on the internet, but you can also find them here on our website. Typical plugs: Disassembly of vortex valves: The vortex valves can be safely dismantled and in most cases if they are removed properly no loss of power is felt. Final list of models for which vortex valves are installed: Engine: M47N/M47TU/M47TUD20 Applications: * 110 kW (148 hp) and 330 N·m (243 lb·ft) o E46 320d 2001-2005 o E83 X3 2.0d (up to end of 2006) Engine: M47TU2D20 The engine was updated again in 2004 as the M47TU2D20. Still at 1995 cc, it produced more power across the range. Applications: * 120 kW (161 hp) and 340 N·m (251 lb·ft) E60/E61 520d E87 120d E90/E91 320d E83 X3 2.0d (end of 2006 onwards) Engine: M57/M57D25 M57D25 was introduced in 2000. Applications: * 166 PS (122 kW; 164 hp) at 4000 rpm, 350 N·m (260 lb·ft) at 2000-2500 rpm with a 4750 rpm redline, models: 2000-2003 E39 525d *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY* Engine: M57N/M57TU/M57TUD25 M57TUD25 was introduced in 2004. Applications: * 177 PS (130 kW; 175 hp) at 4000 rpm, 400 N·m (300 lb·ft) at 2000-2750 rpm models: E60/E61 525d Engine: M57/M57D30 M57D30, also called M57D29, was introduced in 1998. Applications: * 184 PS (135 kW; 181 hp)@4000, 390 N·m (290 lb·ft)@1750-3200 models: E39 530d *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY* E46 330d/330xd *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY* * 184 PS (135 kW; 181 hp)@4000, 410 N·m (300 lb·ft)@2000-3000 models: E38 730d *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY* E53 X5 3.0d * 193 PS (142 kW; 190 hp)@4000, 410 N·m (300 lb·ft)@1750-3000 models: E38 730d E39 530d Engine: M57N/M57TU/M57TUD30 M57TUD30 was introduced in 2002. It originally produced 160 kW (215 hp) at 4000 rpm and 500 N·m (370 lb·ft) at 2000-2750 rpm, but was tweaked for 150 kW (201 hp) at 4000 rpm and 410 N·m (300 lb·ft) at 1500-3250 rpm for 2003 and again for 200 kW (268 hp) at 4000 rpm and 560 N·m (410 lb·ft) at 2000-2250 rpm in 2004. Applications: * 204 PS (150 kW; 201 hp)@4000, 410 N·m (300 lb·ft)@1500-3250 models: E46 330d/330Cd/330xd E83 X3 3.0d * 218 PS (160 kW; 215 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2750 models: E53 X5 3.0d E60/E61 530d/530xd E65 730d * 272 PS (200 kW; 268 hp)@4000, 560 N·m (410 lb·ft)@2000-2250 E60/E61 535d * 245 PS (180 kW; 242 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2250 * 286 PS (210 kW; 282 hp)@4000, 580 N·m (430 lb·ft)@2000-2250 Engine: M57TU2D30 M57TU2D30 was introduced in 2007, making its debut in the facelifted E60 and E61. * M57TU2D30-UL: 197 PS (145 kW; 194 hp) * M57TU2D30-OL: 235 PS (173 kW; 232 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2750 * M57TU2D30-TOP: 286 PS (210 kW; 282 hp), 580 N·m (430 lb·ft) Applications: * 197 PS (145 kW; 194 hp), 400 N·m (300 lb·ft) models: E90/E91/E92 325d E60/E61 525d/525xd * 231 PS (170 kW; 228 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2750 models: E65 730d E90/E91 325d E90/E91 330d/330xd * 235 PS (173 kW; 232 hp) models: E60/E61, BMW E70, BMW E71 * 286 PS (210 kW; 282 hp), 580 N·m (430 lb·ft) models: E60/E61 535d E70 X5 3.0sd E71 X6 xDrive35d E83 X3 3.0sd E90/E91 335d The above models are listed for information only if you want to to make sure your engine has valves installed, please contact a competent person. Please note that the information described above is for informational purposes only and does not claim to be reliable. Mr-key.com is not responsible for any repair work you undertake that is related to the topic described in this article.

How to Install a Hydrogel Navigation Screen Protector

How to Install a Hydrogel Navigation Screen Protector

Nowadays car interiors rely heavily on touchscreens. Whether you drive a BMW 3 Series , VW Golf , Audi A4 , Mercedes A-Class , Peugeot 3008 , or Skoda Octavia , your infotainment display is the centre of navigation, settings, entertainment and safety features. But these screens are also fragile—prone to scratches , fingerprints , micro-abrasions , and glare . A hydrogel navigation screen protector is one of the best ways to protect your car touchscreen without affecting clarity or touch sensitivity. This guide shows you exactly how to install a hydrogel protector , step by step, with expert tips, mistakes to avoid, and a few insider tricks that most guides miss. What Is a Hydrogel Screen Protector? Hydrogel is a soft, self-healing, flexible material used widely in phone protection and now increasingly in automotive displays. Unlike tempered glass, it adapts to curved edges and eliminates small bubbles over time. For more technical background, you can read the scientific definition on hydrogels Hydrogel is ideal for infotainment screen protection because it: Reduces glare Absorbs micro-scratches Maintains full touch sensitivity Adapts to curved and angled car screens Self-heals small marks over 24–48 hours It’s especially useful for European cars where screens are large and glossy, such as: Mercedes MBUX screens (A-Class, C-Class, GLC) Volkswagen MIB systems (Golf, Passat, Tiguan) BMW iDrive displays (3 Series, X1, X3) Audi MMI touchscreens (A4, A3, Q5) Peugeot i-Cockpit models Renault Clio, Captur, Megane Skoda Octavia, Superb, Scala Curious which specific models benefit the most from hydrogel protection? Check out our full guide on which cars benefit most from hydrogel navigation protection . Before You Start: Essential Preparation Installing a hydrogel protector takes only a few minutes, but the preparation stage determines whether the final result looks factory-perfect . You Will Need Hydrogel screen protector Microfiber cloth Screen-cleaning wipe (wet & dry) Dust-removal sticker (optional but recommended) Small squeegee / card Choose the Right Environment Install the protector in: A dust-free space (car parked indoors is ideal) Soft lighting (so dust particles are visible) A still environment (no wind, no blowing air) Avoid doing it outside or while standing near open windows. Step-by-Step: How to Install a Hydrogel Navigation Screen Protector 1. Clean the Navigation Screen Thoroughly Use a wet wipe first, then a dry microfiber cloth. Focus on: Corners Edges Around the frame Any oily fingerprints Tip: Turn the screen off to see dust more easily. 2. Remove All Dust Particles Even one small dust speck can create a permanent bubble. Use: Dust-removal stickers A clean microfiber cloth Hold the screen at an angle and look under the light. If perfectionism matters anywhere, it’s here. 3. Peel the First Protective Layer Most hydrogel protectors have two layers . Peel Layer 1 halfway and align the protector with: Left and right edges Upper frame Any curved edges Do not peel it completely yet. 4. Align and Apply the Protector Once aligned: Press the top centre gently Slowly drag your finger downward Peel off the rest of Layer 1 as you go The film will naturally stick without much force. 5. Use the Squeegee to Push Out Air Work from centre outward , using firm but controlled pressure. Hydrogel is self-healing , so small micro-bubbles usually disappear within 24–48 hours . 6. Remove the Final Top Layer After application: Peel Layer 2 from one corner Pull slowly to avoid lifting the protector This reveals a glossy, clear surface below. 7. Allow 24 Hours for Full Adhesion Do not touch the screen too much during this period. Avoid: Heat exposure Cleaning sprays Aggressive pressing Hydrogel needs time to “settle” and self-heal. Common Mistakes to Avoid Even a perfect protector can be ruined by simple errors. Installing in a dusty environment Fibres, dust and hair easily get trapped. Touching the sticky side This leaves permanent marks. Rushing the alignment Hydrogel is flexible but not stretch-proof. Cleaning with alcohol after installation This can damage the outer coating. Installing on a hot screen Heat weakens adhesion and causes micro-bubbles. For a complete walkthrough , see our guide on how to protect your car’s navigation screen . Why Hydrogel Is Better Than Tempered Glass for Car Screens Tempered glass works well for smartphones—but not for car navigation screens. Hydrogel performs better because: It bends and adapts to curved displays It doesn’t create raised edges It avoids touchscreen sensitivity issues It self-heals micro-abrasions It provides better Anti-Glare performance If you want to see more in depth guide on why hydrogel protectors are better check out our guide on Hydrogel vs Tempered Glass Navigation Protectors Comparison FAQs 1. Does a hydrogel protector reduce screen sensitivity No. Hydrogel maintains full touch responsiveness because the material is soft and pressure-adaptive. 2. Can I reuse a hydrogel screen protector? No. Once removed, it cannot be reinstalled cleanly. 3. How long do micro-bubbles take to disappear? Usually 24–48 hours. Stubborn ones may take up to 72 hours if the screen is curved. 4. Will the protector affect brightness or clarity? High-quality hydrogel preserves original screen clarity. Matte versions reduce glare but may slightly soften reflections. 5. Is hydrogel safe for anti-reflective or coated screens? Yes. Hydrogel adhesive is gentle and does not damage coatings. If you want premium hydrogel protectors for BMW, Audi, Mercedes, VW, Peugeot, Renault, Skoda and more, explore our full selection today. Visit our shop at mr-key.com Related Guides Which cars benefit most from hydrogel navigation protection How to Protect Your Car’s Navigation Screen from Scratches,Glare & Fingerprints Hydrogel vs Tempered Glass Navigation Protectors Comparison

How to Remove or Change a Roof Rack Lock Barrel Easily

How to Remove or Change a Roof Rack Lock Barrel Easily

Changing or removing the lock barrel on your roof rack may seem like a daunting task, but it’s actually simpler than you might think. Whether you need a replacement due to a lost key, wear and tear, or just want to swap out an old lock for a new one, following the right steps can make the process hassle-free. This guide will walk you through everything you need to know about handling a roof rack lock barrel with ease. Why You Might Need to Change a Roof Rack Lock Barrel ? There are several reasons why you may want to replace or remove your roof rack lock barrel: Lost Key : If you've misplaced the key, replacing the lock barrel is often the most practical solution. Upgrading the Lock : Maybe you want a more secure lock for added peace of mind. Routine Maintenance : Over time, lock barrels can wear down, making it harder to insert or turn the key. Uniformity : If you've recently changed your car key, you may want to match your roof rack lock with it. Knowing why you’re changing the lock barrel will help you determine the steps you need to follow. What You’ll Need Before you start, gather these essential tools and items: Replacement Lock Barrel : Ensure it’s compatible with your roof rack model. Master Key or Removal Key : Often required to remove the old lock barrel. New Key : The key that corresponds to the replacement lock barrel. Flathead Screwdriver : To gently pry and release certain parts if needed. Step-by-Step Guide to Removing a Roof Rack Lock Barrel Removing a lock barrel from your roof rack doesn’t require extensive mechanical skills. Just follow these straightforward steps: 1. Locate the Lock Barrel The lock barrel is usually situated in the center or side of the roof rack. Look for the small lock with the keyhole, as this is where you'll be inserting the master or removal key. 2. Insert the Master Key or Removal Key If you have a master or removal key, insert it into the lock. This is often a universal key provided by the lock manufacturer specifically for removing lock barrels. Once it’s inserted, turn the key slightly to unlock the barrel. Tip: If you don’t have a removal key, contact a professional or see if you can order one specifically for your model. 3. Pull the Lock Barrel Out With the removal key still in place, gently pull the lock barrel out. If it’s resistant, try wiggling it slightly while pulling. Avoid forcing it, as this could damage the lock or roof rack. In some cases, you may need a flathead screwdriver to help pry it out, but be careful not to scratch the surrounding area. 4. Check the Casing After removing the lock barrel, inspect the casing where the barrel was installed. Make sure it’s clean and free of debris. Any dirt or rust could interfere with the new lock barrel, so it’s a good idea to clean this area before proceeding. Installing the New Lock Barrel Once the old barrel is removed, you’re ready to install the new one. Here’s how: 1. Align the New Lock Barrel Take your new lock barrel and align it with the casing where the old one was. Most barrels are designed to fit in only one direction, so make sure you align it properly to avoid jamming. 2. Insert the New Barrel Push the new lock barrel into the casing until it clicks into place. This might require a bit of pressure, but it should fit snugly without needing excessive force. 3. Test the New Key After installing the new lock barrel, insert the new key and turn it to ensure it’s working smoothly. The key should turn easily and lock securely. This step verifies that the new lock is properly aligned and functional. Common Challenges and Solutions While changing a roof rack lock barrel is generally straightforward, you might encounter some challenges. Here’s how to troubleshoot common issues: Stuck Barrel : If the old barrel is stuck, apply a lubricant like WD-40 around the lock to help loosen it. No Removal Key : If you don’t have a master or removal key, consider reaching out to a locksmith or checking if the manufacturer offers a replacement. Barrel Won’t Fit : Ensure you’ve purchased a compatible lock barrel. Even slight differences in design can prevent it from fitting properly. Tips for Maintaining Your Roof Rack Lock To keep your new lock barrel in good condition and prevent the need for frequent replacements, consider these maintenance tips: Regular Cleaning : Dirt and grime can accumulate inside the lock over time, making it harder to operate. Clean the lock regularly to prevent this. Use Lubricant : Apply a small amount of lubricant inside the lock barrel periodically to keep the key turning smoothly. Protect from Rust : If your roof rack is exposed to rain and humidity, use a protective cover or shield to keep moisture out of the lock barrel. Check Key Fit : Avoid using a damaged or bent key, as this can wear out the lock barrel more quickly. When to Seek Professional Help In some cases, removing or replacing a roof rack lock barrel might require assistance from a professional: Lost or Damaged Keys : If both your main key and master key are lost or damaged, a professional can help retrieve or replace the lock barrel. Damaged Lock Mechanism : If the lock itself is damaged or jammed, forcing it can make things worse. A professional locksmith can safely remove and replace it. Replacing or removing a roof rack lock barrel is an affordable and manageable task for most car owners. By following the right steps and keeping up with regular maintenance, you can ensure your roof rack lock stays functional and secure. Whether you’re upgrading for security or replacing a worn-out lock, a new lock barrel can make all the difference in keeping your roof rack safe. Effortless Key Replacement for a Variety of Locks Order 2x Union Keys FT Series, custom-cut to your original key code, for a hassle-free replacement. Compatible with a range of locks, including those from Aston Martin, Jaguar, Land Rover, and more, these keys are perfect for classic cars, caravans, petrol caps, roof racks, and truck canopies. Simply find your lock code (e.g., FT101-FT360) on the lock face and enjoy fast delivery of high-quality spare keys.

Cold Weather and Your Car Key Fob: What You Need to Know

Cold Weather and Your Car Key Fob: What You Need to Know

As the temperature drops and winter approaches, it’s not just your car’s engine that needs extra attention. Your car’s key fob is also affected by the cold weather, and it’s important to understand how frigid temperatures can impact its performance. In this article, we’ll explore how cold weather can affect your key fob and what you can do to prevent it from causing you frustration during the colder months. How Cold Weather Affects Your Key Fob Key fobs are small electronic devices designed to make our lives easier. They allow us to lock, unlock, and start our cars without ever having to take the key out of our pocket or bag. However, like any electronic device, key fobs are sensitive to extreme temperatures. When the temperature drops, the battery inside the key fob can be affected. Cold weather causes the battery’s chemical reactions to slow down, which can lead to a reduced charge or even a complete failure to operate. If your key fob suddenly stops working or becomes unresponsive, it's likely due to the cold weather affecting the battery's ability to function properly. In addition to battery performance, the cold can also cause the internal components of the key fob to contract. This may interfere with the fob’s functionality, causing it to not respond when you press the buttons. Furthermore, moisture from snow, rain, or condensation can get into the fob, which can cause short circuits or further damage. Signs Your Key Fob May Be Affected by the Cold If you live in an area where cold temperatures are common, it’s essential to be aware of the signs that your key fob might be struggling with the weather. Here are some indicators that the cold is affecting your key fob: Unresponsive buttons : If you press the buttons on your key fob and nothing happens, it may be due to the battery or the internal components not responding correctly to the cold. Delayed reactions : If you notice a delay in your fob’s response, where the locks or alarm take longer than usual to react, this is another sign of cold-induced malfunction. Reduced range : If your key fob is working, but only from a very short distance, it could be due to the battery’s reduced performance in the cold. If you notice these issues, don’t immediately panic. There are simple fixes and preventative steps you can take to resolve the issue. What You Can Do to Protect Your Key Fob in the Cold Fortunately, there are several things you can do to ensure that your key fob continues to work properly during cold weather. By taking a few precautions, you can protect the battery and internal components of your key fob from extreme temperatures: Keep Your Key Fob Warm One of the easiest ways to prevent cold weather from affecting your key fob is to keep it warm. If you're going outside during cold weather, keep your key fob in your coat pocket or a warm, insulated area. You can even use a small pouch or key fob holder with insulation to protect it from the cold. Replace the Battery Before Winter If your key fob is already showing signs of battery issues, consider replacing the battery before winter hits. Even if it’s not quite dead yet, replacing the battery can help ensure that your key fob works smoothly during colder months. Many key fob batteries are easy to replace and can be done at home with a simple tool. Use a Backup Key If you anticipate being in extremely cold conditions or live in a particularly harsh climate, consider having a backup key. Many cars come with a traditional key hidden inside the key fob, which you can use if the key fob stops working in the cold. Having this backup can save you a lot of hassle if your fob stops working unexpectedly. Avoid Moisture Exposure It’s important to keep your key fob dry, especially in winter, when snow, rain, and condensation can cause moisture to build up inside. If your fob does get wet, dry it thoroughly as soon as possible and avoid leaving it outside in damp conditions. If moisture persists, it may cause the internal components to fail. Test Your Key Fob Regularly To ensure that everything is working properly, make a habit of testing your key fob regularly, especially during the colder months. If you notice any signs of malfunction early, you can address the issue before it gets worse. What to Do If Your Key Fob Stops Working If your key fob stops working despite taking preventative measures, don’t panic. There are a few things you can do: Warm up the Fob : Try warming up the fob by placing it in your pocket for a few minutes or rubbing it in your hands. This can help restore some functionality if the battery has slowed down due to the cold. Replace the Battery : If the fob still isn’t working, it may be time to replace the battery. A new battery can often resolve issues related to cold weather. Contact a Professional : If the fob continues to malfunction after changing the battery, it may be time to take it to a professional locksmith or the dealership to check for internal damage. While it’s easy to overlook the impact that cold weather can have on your car’s key fob, it’s important to understand the effects that extreme temperatures can have on its performance. By taking simple precautions and knowing the signs of potential issues, you can help ensure that your key fob continues to work smoothly throughout the colder months. From keeping it warm to regular maintenance, there are several ways to protect your key fob and avoid the frustration of a malfunction during the winter. So, this season, take a few extra steps to care for your key fob, and you’ll be able to unlock and start your car with ease, no matter how cold it gets outside.

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