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How to Spot a Car Key Cloning Scam: Warning Signs and Prevention Tips

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30.04.2025

How to Spot a Car Key Cloning Scam: Warning Signs and Prevention Tips

Car theft doesn’t always involve smashing windows or forced ignition anymore. These days, all it might take is a thief standing a few feet away from you — equipped with a small electronic device and a plan to clone your car key without ever touching it.

Welcome to the age of car key cloning. Fast, silent, and nearly untraceable, this high-tech method of theft is on the rise, and many drivers don’t even know it exists. In this article, we’ll walk you through how it works, what red flags to watch for, and how to protect yourself from becoming the next victim.

What Is Car Key Cloning and How Does It Work?

Car key cloning is the process of copying the signal emitted by your key fob and using that signal to unlock and even start your car. Thieves use tools like signal amplifiers, cloning software, or plug-in programming devices to mimic the electronic code stored in your key.

In most cases, they don’t even need to touch your key. They just need to be close enough — in a parking lot, next to your front door, or even in a restaurant — to intercept the signal when you lock or unlock your car. That signal is then copied and stored on another device or blank key fob.

In some instances, criminals will break into your car and access the OBD port (the vehicle’s diagnostic system) to directly program a new key.

This means they can drive off in your car with a cloned key, and you may not even know how they got in.

Why This Scam Is Spreading So Quickly

Key cloning was once limited to high-end criminal operations, but now the tools are cheap, easy to find, and widely available online. Some fob cloning devices are openly sold on marketplaces, making it simple for even low-level criminals to learn the trade.

A cloned key leaves no trace of forced entry, no damage, and often no evidence — making it harder for insurance claims to be validated and for stolen cars to be recovered.

The rise in keyless entry systems means millions of drivers are potential targets, whether they realize it or not.

According to The Sun, cloning devices sold online can program new keys in under 30 minutes.

5 Warning Signs You May Be Targeted

Strange behavior from your key fob – If the range suddenly becomes shorter or the buttons stop responding consistently, your signal may have been intercepted.

Unfamiliar devices or people near your car – Be cautious if you see people lingering nearby with phone-like devices or bags near your car.

Your car unlocks by itself – This could mean someone nearby is mimicking your key’s signal.

You find marks or loose panels near the OBD port – Some thieves break in to plug in programming devices.

You lose access to your spare key – It’s possible a third key was added to your system, locking the others out.

How to Prevent Car Key Cloning

While key cloning can be hard to detect, it's relatively easy to prevent if you're proactive. Here’s how to stay protected:

Use a Faraday pouch: These small, signal-blocking cases prevent your key’s signal from being intercepted when not in use.

Don’t store keys near doors or windows: Keep your keys at least 5–10 meters from exterior walls.

Disable keyless entry if possible: Some vehicles allow you to turn off proximity unlocking in the settings.

Invest in physical security: Steering wheel locks, OBD port locks, and even wheel clamps act as strong deterrents.

Audit your key system: A locksmith can check how many keys are programmed to your vehicle and delete unauthorized ones.

If you're ever in doubt, replace your key and reprogram your system. It may cost a bit up front, but it's cheaper than replacing a stolen car.

Need a secure replacement key or a Faraday pouch? Browse our car key and accessories collection for trusted, secure options.

Know the Risk, Beat the Scam

Car key cloning scams are evolving — and fast. The combination of wireless technology, smart cars, and openly available tools has created the perfect storm for high-tech theft. But with a little awareness and some simple precautions, you can stay one step ahead.

Don’t wait until it happens to you. Know the signs, protect your keys, and take action now — because in a world of silent theft, what you don’t see can hurt you.

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Inside a Key Rescue: How to Salvage a Wet or Flooded Car Key
10.07.2025

Inside a Key Rescue: How to Salvage a Wet or Flooded Car Key

Water damage is one of the most common – and most stressful – problems car key owners face. Whether your key fell into a puddle, went through the wash, or was simply caught in a downpour, it can stop working in an instant. But does water exposure always mean you need to buy a new key? Not necessarily. In many cases, a quick and proper response can save your key, restore its function, and spare you an expensive replacement. This guide walks you through how to rescue a wet or flooded car key, what not to do, and how to know when it’s beyond repair. How Car Keys Get Wet Modern car keys, especially keyless remotes and fobs, aren’t designed to be waterproof. Even small amounts of moisture can cause damage if the internal components are exposed. Some of the most common causes of water-damaged keys include: Being left in clothing and run through the washing machine Falling into sinks, toilets, or puddles Exposure to rain, snow, or slush Dropped at the beach or near pools Stored in damp gym bags or jackets Once water enters the key shell, it can corrode the circuit board, damage the battery, or short-circuit the transponder chip. What to Do Immediately After Getting Your Key Wet The first few minutes after exposure are critical. Acting quickly can mean the difference between a working key and a dead one. 1. Remove the Key from the Water Take the key out of the water as quickly as possible. The longer it sits, the more damage can occur inside. 2. Open the Key Shell If your key has a removable shell, gently open it using a small screwdriver or plastic tool. This allows you to access the internal parts and dry them properly. If you’re unsure how to open it, look up a video or guide specific to your car model. 3. Take Out the Battery Immediately remove the battery. A wet battery in contact with electronics can cause short circuits and corrosion. Do not reinstall the same battery later; it may be compromised. 4. Dry the Internal Components Gently pat all visible parts dry with a lint-free cloth. Do not use paper towels, as they can leave behind fibers. Then allow the key to air-dry using one of the following methods: Option A: Use Silica Gel or Desiccant Packs Place the opened key and all components in an airtight container with silica gel packets. Leave it sealed for at least 24 to 48 hours. Option B: Use Uncooked Rice If silica gel isn’t available, uncooked rice can work as an alternative. Place the key in a bowl of rice and cover it completely. Leave it for 2 to 3 days. Do not use a hair dryer, microwave, or place the key near a heater. High heat can warp the plastic shell and damage sensitive electronics. After Drying: Will the Key Work Again? After a full drying period, insert a new battery and test the key. In many cases, it will begin working again — especially if water exposure was brief and the board was not damaged. If the key still doesn’t respond, try the following steps: Inspect the circuit board for corrosion or residue Try replacing the outer shell if buttons feel worn or unresponsive Check if the vehicle recognizes the transponder chip If none of these steps work, the internal chip or electronics may be permanently damaged. When to Replace the Key Sometimes the damage goes beyond what cleaning and drying can fix. You’ll likely need a full replacement if: The key no longer sends a signal The LED light doesn’t flash when pressing buttons There is visible corrosion on the circuit board The transponder chip fails to communicate with the vehicle Buttons are physically damaged or unresponsive The key was underwater for an extended time In these situations, replacing the key is often the most reliable solution. Don’t Wait Until It’s Too Late – Keep a Spare Key If you’ve experienced water damage once, there’s a good chance it could happen again. Keeping a backup key stored in a safe, dry location is one of the best precautions you can take. You can find replacement key shells, blades, batteries, and fully programmed keys for most vehicle brands at mr-key.com . Investing in a spare can save time, money, and stress. Final Tips for Car Key Water Damage Act fast and remove the battery as soon as possible Use silica gel or rice for slow, safe drying Avoid heat, rubbing, or shaking the electronics Replace the shell if it’s worn, cracked, or damaged If in doubt, test with a new battery before replacing the entire key Need Replacement Parts? Whether you need a new shell, battery, or a complete key, visit mr-key.com to find compatible parts for a wide range of vehicles. Our selection includes: Key shells for all major brands CR2032 batteries Key blades and electronics Fully assembled remote keys with chip and programming options If your key has been exposed to water, don’t panic. With the right steps, many keys can be rescued — and if not, we’re here to help you find the right replacement.

Removing Keys from Locks: A Comprehensive Guide
26.08.2024

Removing Keys from Locks: A Comprehensive Guide

Removing a key from a lock may seem simple, but it can become tricky when dealing with stuck or broken keys. Whether you're dealing with a standard lock, padlock, or vehicle ignition, understanding the correct techniques can save you from damage and frustration. This guide will walk you through the essential steps for removing keys from various types of locks, offering practical advice and tips to ensure a smooth process. Common Scenarios and Challenges Keys can become stuck or difficult to remove for several reasons, including misalignment, wear and tear, or damage to the key or lock. Additionally, environmental factors like temperature changes can cause metals to expand or contract, making key removal more challenging. Recognizing the cause of the issue is the first step in effectively addressing it. Basic Techniques for Key Removal Gentle Wiggle and Pull: The first technique to try is a gentle wiggle and pull. Hold the key firmly and move it slightly up and down or side to side while pulling gently. This method works well if the key is simply stuck due to misalignment. Lubrication: If the key is difficult to remove, applying a small amount of graphite powder or a silicone-based lubricant into the keyhole can help. Avoid using oil-based lubricants, as they can attract dirt and grime, potentially worsening the problem. Tapping the Lock: For stubborn cases, lightly tapping the lock with a hammer while gently pulling the key can help dislodge it. This method is effective when the key is stuck due to debris or minor misalignments within the lock. Advanced Techniques for Stuck Keys Using a Key Extractor: If the key is broken off inside the lock, a key extractor tool can be very effective. Insert the tool into the keyhole, hook the broken key piece, and pull it out carefully. This method requires patience and a steady hand. Pliers and Tweezers: If part of the key is still protruding, you can use needle-nose pliers or tweezers to grip and pull the key out. Be careful not to apply too much force, as this can push the key further into the lock or damage the lock mechanism. Heat Application: In cold weather, metal contracts, which can cause the key to get stuck. Gently heating the key with a hairdryer or warm cloth can expand the metal slightly, making it easier to remove. However, avoid using an open flame, as it can damage the lock or key. Preventing Key Stuck Issues Prevention is always better than cure. Here are some tips to prevent keys from getting stuck in the future: Regular Maintenance: Keep your locks and keys clean and well-lubricated with appropriate materials. Regularly inspect for wear and tear, and replace any damaged keys or locks. Use Duplicate Keys: If you notice a key becoming difficult to use, have a duplicate made before it breaks or becomes stuck. This will save you the hassle of dealing with a stuck key. Avoid Excessive Force: Never force a key into a lock. If it doesn’t turn easily, stop and inspect both the key and the lock for damage or obstruction. When to Call a Professional While many stuck key issues can be resolved with the techniques mentioned above, there are times when professional assistance is necessary. If you’ve tried all the methods and the key remains stuck, or if you’re dealing with a high-security lock, it’s best to contact a professional locksmith. They have the tools and expertise to safely remove the key without damaging the lock or key further. Dealing with a stuck key can be frustrating, but understanding the proper techniques can save you time and prevent damage. From basic wiggling and lubrication to more advanced methods like using a key extractor, there are various approaches depending on the severity of the situation. Regular maintenance and careful handling can help prevent these issues from occurring in the first place. When in doubt, don’t hesitate to seek professional help to ensure your lock and key remain in good working condition.

Lost Your Witter, GDW, Thule (Brink) or TowTrust Towbar Key? Here's What to Do.
29.07.2025

Lost Your Witter, GDW, Thule (Brink) or TowTrust Towbar Key? Here's What to Do.

Lost your towbar key right before a holiday or towing trip? You’re not alone. Detachable towbar keys are typically used only occasionally – often just before a caravan holiday or when you need to tow – which means they spend most of the year tucked away. It’s all too easy for that lost towbar key to go missing between uses. The good news is that if your key has an ACS-series code (ACS01–ACS10) engraved on it, you can order a precise replacement online in minutes and avoid throwing a wrench in your travel plans. What are ACS towbar keys? The ACS-series keys are a common type of detachable towbar key numbered ACS01 through ACS10 (for reference: ACS01, ACS02, ACS03, ACS04, ACS05, ACS06, ACS07, ACS08, ACS09, ACS10). These keys fit a specific locking system used by multiple towbar manufacturers. In fact, an ACS towbar key could belong to a detachable hitch from ACS itself or from popular brands like Witter, GDW, Thule (Brink) or TowTrust – all of whom use the same ACS lock design. What matters is the code stamped on your key or lock. If it falls in the ACS01–ACS10 range, that code is all you need to get a new key cut and shipped to you. Check Your Key Code (ACS01–ACS10) Before you panic, inspect your towbar’s lock (or any remaining key) for a small engraved code. Most detachable towbar locks have the key number stamped either on the face of the lock barrel or on the original key itself. For the ACS series, this code will start with “ACS” followed by a two-digit number – for example, ACS04 or ACS09. If you see a code in the format ACS## and especially if it’s between ACS01 and ACS10, you’re in luck. That means your towbar uses the ACS key system, and a towbar key ACS01–ACS10 replacement can be ordered without changing the lock. Why is the key code important? This unique code is what key cutting services use to create an exact match for your lock. No original key is required – the code itself tells the cutter how to shape the new key. As long as the code is clearly visible (and within the supported range), you won’t need to replace the entire towbar lock or mechanism. Just supply the code and a new key can be made to fit perfectly, as if it were the original. Tip: Wipe the lock face clean or use a flashlight if needed – dirt and road grime can obscure the tiny engraving. On some keys the code might be on the plastic head or metal shaft of the key. Look for “ACS” followed by numbers. Compatible Towbar Brands for ACS Keys One big advantage of the ACS lock system is its cross-compatibility. These key codes ACS01–ACS10 aren’t limited to a single towbar brand – they’re used across several major manufacturers of detachable towbars. If you have a detachable towbar from any of the following brands, there’s a good chance it uses an ACS-series key: ACS (A50-X) – ACS is the original supplier of this locking system (often referred to as the A50-X class detachable). Keys for ACS detachable towballs will have codes ACS01–ACS10. Brink / Thule – Thule’s towing division (now Brink) uses ACS keys for many of its detachable hitches. If you have a Thule or Brink detachable towbar, check for an ACS code on the lock. (Brink/Thule locks with codes like 1D## or 2D## are a different series – but ACS## codes are common on earlier Thule/Brink models.) Witter – A very popular towbar brand, Witter uses the ACS system on their detachable swan-neck towbars. A Witter detachable with an ACS key will have “ACS” on the key or lock face. Witter towbar key replacements are readily available by code. GDW – This European towbar manufacturer also uses ACS-series keys for many detachables. If you need a GDW towbar replacement key, the process is the same: find the ACS## code and order a matching key. Tow-Trust – TowTrust (Tow-Trust) towbars, often sold in the UK and EU, utilize ACS keys as well. Tow-Trust detachable models with ACS locks will have codes ACS01–ACS10 on the keys. Other brands like PCT Automotive or Towsure have also been known to use ACS locks in some of their detachable towbar systems. The key point is that multiple brands share this ACS key design. So whether your hitch is labeled Witter, Thule, Brink, GDW, or TowTrust, if the key code starts with ACS, you can get the correct replacement towbar key by that code. This compatibility makes it easier to find spares, since one good supplier can cover many brands under the ACS series. Quick Reference: ACS Key Codes and Brands For easy identification, here’s a summary of which detachable towbars use the ACS01–ACS10 key range: Towbar Brand Detachable Key Code Series Example Key Code ACS (A50-X system) ACS01 – ACS10 ACS07 (on key/lock) Brink (Thule Towbars) ACS01 – ACS10 ACS05 Witter ACS01 – ACS10 ACS03 GDW ACS01 – ACS10 ACS09 Tow-Trust ACS01 – ACS10 ACS02 If your towbar brand is listed above and you see an “ACS*” code on the lock, you can order a new key by that code. In the example codes, the number can be any from 01 to 10. How to Order a Replacement ACS Towbar Key Online One of the great things about these keys is how simple it is to get a replacement. You don’t need to visit a dealership or locksmith in person; you can order an ACS towbar key online and have it cut to code and delivered to your door. Here’s how to do it: 1. Locate the ACS key code – As mentioned, find the engraved code on your existing key or the towbar lock barrel (e.g. ACS08). Double-check that it’s in the ACS01–ACS10 range. 2. Visit a replacement key website – Go to a trusted online key supplier that offers keys cut to code. For example, you can order from a specialized service like Mr. Key. They have a product page specifically for spare keys for ACS A50-X / Brink / Thule towbars (codes ACS01–ACS10) – this is where you’ll enter your code to get the correct key. 3. Select your key code – On the product page, choose your exact code (say, ACS04 or ACS09) from the dropdown or list. 4. Place your order – Add the replacement key to your cart and check out. These keys are very affordable (usually only a few dollars or euros each), and you can often choose expedited shipping if you’re in a hurry. 5. Receive and test the key – Shipping is typically quick (a few days within Europe). Once it arrives, test the replacement towbar key in your detachable towbar’s lock. It should turn smoothly and unlock the mechanism just like the original. Problem solved. Product Link: https://mr-key.com/product/spare-key-for-acs-a50-x-brink-thule-towbar-codes-acs01-acs10 You can order the correct replacement key here: Spare Key for ACS A50-X / Brink / Thule Towbar – Codes ACS01–ACS10. Simply select your code from ACS01 up to ACS10 and choose the key with the matching number. The new key will be cut to that code and sent to you ready to use. Ordering online is not only convenient but also ensures you get the precise key you need. These keys are cut by code using professional tools, so you don’t have to worry about tracing an old key or guesswork. As long as the code you provide is correct, the new key will fit perfectly or you can get your money back. Make a Spare Key Now to Avoid Future Stress Once you have your new key in hand (or if you still have your original), it’s time to think ahead. Don’t wait until you’ve lost the only key to take action. Cutting a spare key while you still have a working one is quick and inexpensive, and it can save you a lot of trouble down the road. Here are some benefits of having a spare towbar key: No more last-minute panic: If one key goes missing, you’ll have a backup ready. This means no frantic searches the night before your trip and no postponed travel plans due to a missing key. Avoid costly lock replacements: Losing the only towbar key can be expensive – you might be forced to drill out the lock or replace the entire detachable neck mechanism. A spare key (which typically costs under £10) is far cheaper than a new lock or towbar. Keep your holiday on track: A Thule towbar spare key or Witter towbar spare key tucked in your glove box ensures that a lost key won’t derail your caravan holiday or trailer rental schedule. You can continue towing without delay. Fast & affordable peace of mind: Ordering an extra key by code is both fast and affordable. Many drivers are surprised at how easy it is – often it’s just a couple of clicks online and a short wait for delivery. It’s a small investment for the security of knowing you’re covered. Consider ordering two keys when you get your replacement. Many suppliers even offer a deal on a second key (or include a pair by default), so you can keep one spare at home and one in the vehicle. Having multiple keys means you’re highly unlikely to ever be locked out of your own towbar again. Losing your towbar key can be a frustrating experience, especially when it happens right before you need to use it. But if your detachable towbar uses the ACS lock system (codes ACS01–ACS10), solving the problem is straightforward. With a visible ACS key code and a reliable online key-cutting service, you can quickly get a new replacement towbar key cut to code and delivered. There’s no need for costly new locks or last-minute cancellations of your towing plans. Don’t let a lost towbar key ruin your trip. Take a moment to check your towbar for an ACS code. If it’s there, you can have a new key on the way in no time. And even if your current key is in hand, think ahead – get a spare made now to save yourself stress later. With fast online ordering and prices that won’t break the bank, getting an ACS towbar key replacement is the easiest way to ensure you’re never stuck without the key to your adventures. Safe towing.

What You Need To Know About BMW Swirl Flaps and How To Solve The Problem With Them
28.05.2024

What You Need To Know About BMW Swirl Flaps and How To Solve The Problem With Them

Swirl flaps are a BMW system that has been introduced to help burn the fuel mixture in the cylinder better due to the fact that diesel engines do not have throttle valves and it is not possible to adjust the air-fuel ratio. A diesel engine without vortex valves operates between a poor and a rich fuel mixture, because the only way to regulate it is through fuel injection. Design of the first generation swirl flaps that are made of made of metal. Unfortunately, swirl flaps are responsible for countless damaged engines and costly repairs due to design errors or metal fatigue. Once damaged, the cylinder sucks them in and causes great damage. This is how damaged valves damage the cylinder. Typical swirl flaps suction damage. The vortex valves are positioned in the inlet and are controlled by vacuum (DDE 4.0) or electrically (DDE5.0 / DDE6.4) by the engine ECU. Effects of malfunctioning valves: Swirl valves are stuck in open position: Deterioration of exhaust gas performance at lower speeds. Swirl valves are stuck in closed position: Approximate power loss of 10% at high engine speeds. How swirl flaps work: Performance characteristics: The vortex valves are in the closed position, at low engine speeds and small amounts of fuel injected (controlled by the ECU card). They open under the following conditions: coolant temperature <14 ° C OR * fuel quantity> 24 mg OR engine speed 2250 rpm OR inlet air temperature <-5 ° C BMW and Pierburg have decided to produce diesel engines with metal vortex valves. The speed at which the pistons in the diesel engine operate is at least 60 rpm, so a sucked vortex valve will break and cause a number of damages inside the engine. In most cases, one or more pistons are severely damaged, as a bonus you get valves, in some cases a head or turbocharger. And this combination with a BMW engine is like a cumulative jackpot 🙂 In 2004, BMW began work on the problem and improved the design, however, a number of owners reported ongoing problems in this area. The solution to this problem is by removing the vortex valves and plugging, which does not affect the performance of the engine and at the same time, you can safely pass the exhaust test. Engines: M47 (136hp VP44 fuel pump) has no valves. M47N common rail engine (including M47N / M47TU / M47TUD20) (150hp. Face lift model from 2001 -) has valves. M57 engines (M57D) (525d & 187hp. 330d) cars with manual transmission do not have valves, but those with automatic have. M57N engines (M57TUD) (525d & 330d 204hp) have vortex valves. Ruined swirl flaps: The plugs that replace the vortex valves are easy to find on the internet, but you can also find them here on our website. Typical plugs: Disassembly of vortex valves: The vortex valves can be safely dismantled and in most cases if they are removed properly no loss of power is felt. Final list of models for which vortex valves are installed: Engine: M47N/M47TU/M47TUD20 Applications: * 110 kW (148 hp) and 330 N·m (243 lb·ft) o E46 320d 2001-2005 o E83 X3 2.0d (up to end of 2006) Engine: M47TU2D20 The engine was updated again in 2004 as the M47TU2D20. Still at 1995 cc, it produced more power across the range. Applications: * 120 kW (161 hp) and 340 N·m (251 lb·ft) E60/E61 520d E87 120d E90/E91 320d E83 X3 2.0d (end of 2006 onwards) Engine: M57/M57D25 M57D25 was introduced in 2000. Applications: * 166 PS (122 kW; 164 hp) at 4000 rpm, 350 N·m (260 lb·ft) at 2000-2500 rpm with a 4750 rpm redline, models: 2000-2003 E39 525d *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY* Engine: M57N/M57TU/M57TUD25 M57TUD25 was introduced in 2004. Applications: * 177 PS (130 kW; 175 hp) at 4000 rpm, 400 N·m (300 lb·ft) at 2000-2750 rpm models: E60/E61 525d Engine: M57/M57D30 M57D30, also called M57D29, was introduced in 1998. Applications: * 184 PS (135 kW; 181 hp)@4000, 390 N·m (290 lb·ft)@1750-3200 models: E39 530d *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY* E46 330d/330xd *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY* * 184 PS (135 kW; 181 hp)@4000, 410 N·m (300 lb·ft)@2000-3000 models: E38 730d *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY* E53 X5 3.0d * 193 PS (142 kW; 190 hp)@4000, 410 N·m (300 lb·ft)@1750-3000 models: E38 730d E39 530d Engine: M57N/M57TU/M57TUD30 M57TUD30 was introduced in 2002. It originally produced 160 kW (215 hp) at 4000 rpm and 500 N·m (370 lb·ft) at 2000-2750 rpm, but was tweaked for 150 kW (201 hp) at 4000 rpm and 410 N·m (300 lb·ft) at 1500-3250 rpm for 2003 and again for 200 kW (268 hp) at 4000 rpm and 560 N·m (410 lb·ft) at 2000-2250 rpm in 2004. Applications: * 204 PS (150 kW; 201 hp)@4000, 410 N·m (300 lb·ft)@1500-3250 models: E46 330d/330Cd/330xd E83 X3 3.0d * 218 PS (160 kW; 215 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2750 models: E53 X5 3.0d E60/E61 530d/530xd E65 730d * 272 PS (200 kW; 268 hp)@4000, 560 N·m (410 lb·ft)@2000-2250 E60/E61 535d * 245 PS (180 kW; 242 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2250 * 286 PS (210 kW; 282 hp)@4000, 580 N·m (430 lb·ft)@2000-2250 Engine: M57TU2D30 M57TU2D30 was introduced in 2007, making its debut in the facelifted E60 and E61. * M57TU2D30-UL: 197 PS (145 kW; 194 hp) * M57TU2D30-OL: 235 PS (173 kW; 232 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2750 * M57TU2D30-TOP: 286 PS (210 kW; 282 hp), 580 N·m (430 lb·ft) Applications: * 197 PS (145 kW; 194 hp), 400 N·m (300 lb·ft) models: E90/E91/E92 325d E60/E61 525d/525xd * 231 PS (170 kW; 228 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2750 models: E65 730d E90/E91 325d E90/E91 330d/330xd * 235 PS (173 kW; 232 hp) models: E60/E61, BMW E70, BMW E71 * 286 PS (210 kW; 282 hp), 580 N·m (430 lb·ft) models: E60/E61 535d E70 X5 3.0sd E71 X6 xDrive35d E83 X3 3.0sd E90/E91 335d The above models are listed for information only if you want to to make sure your engine has valves installed, please contact a competent person. Please note that the information described above is for informational purposes only and does not claim to be reliable. Mr-key.com is not responsible for any repair work you undertake that is related to the topic described in this article.

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