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Car theft has entered the digital age — and unfortunately, so have the thieves. As car manufacturers move toward keyless technology, a new type of threat has emerged: the relay attack. Unlike traditional break-ins, this high-tech method allows criminals to steal a vehicle without touching the keys — or even breaking a window.

Imagine this: your car is parked safely outside your house. Your key fob is inside, hanging on a hook by the front door. You're fast asleep. But outside, two individuals with small electronic devices are working together. One stands near your front door, scanning for a signal from your key fob. The other waits by your car. Within seconds, your key’s signal is captured, extended, and transmitted to your car. It unlocks, starts, and drives away — and you might not notice until morning.

This is not science fiction. It's called a relay attack, and it's one of the fastest-growing vehicle theft methods worldwide.

Why Relay Attacks Are So Effective

The key to this technique is exploiting the constant communication between your car and its fob. Most keyless entry systems are designed for convenience — you don’t even need to press a button. The car automatically detects the presence of the key fob and unlocks when you approach.

This convenience is exactly what makes it vulnerable. Relay devices — which are cheap, portable, and easy to use — can mimic the signal and trick the car into thinking the key is nearby, even when it’s inside your home.

Security experts have raised the alarm about this method for years, but many drivers still don’t realize how easily their vehicles can be accessed. In the UK alone, keyless car theft now accounts for more than 90% of vehicle thefts involving high-end models, according to the AA. And with the rise of online tutorials and black-market tools, the problem is growing globally.

So, What Can You Do to Stay Safe?

Fortunately, protecting your vehicle doesn’t require advanced tech or a huge investment — just awareness and a few smart habits.

One of the most effective ways to block relay attacks is also the simplest: store your keys in a signal-blocking container. Often called a Faraday pouch or Faraday box, this lined case prevents radio signals from escaping. When your keys are stored inside, they can’t be scanned or cloned, no matter how close a thief gets to your home.

Placement also matters. Many drivers leave their keys near the front door or on an entryway table — spots that are easy to access from outside. Moving your keys to the center of your home, an upper floor, or even a metal box can reduce signal exposure dramatically.

Some newer key fobs allow you to manually disable the signal when it’s not in use. This feature is often hidden in the manual and rarely mentioned by dealers. Taking a moment to learn whether your key supports this — and how to activate it — can make a big difference.

It’s also worth checking whether your vehicle’s software is up to date. Many automakers periodically release firmware updates that strengthen encryption or reduce signal range. In some cases, updates can even detect and block suspicious unlock attempts.

And while it may seem old-fashioned, physical security still works. Devices like steering wheel locks or gear shift immobilisers can be powerful visual deterrents. Even if a thief manages to unlock your vehicle, the sight of a bulky lock inside may be enough to send them looking for an easier target.

If you're looking for practical solutions beyond GPS, check out our blog: Do Car Keys Have GPS? What You Need to Know About Key Tracking.

In summary, here are a few key takeaways to keep your keys and vehicle safer:

Store your fob in a signal-blocking pouch or metal container

Keep keys away from entry points like doors or windows

Disable keyless signals if your fob supports it

Update your car’s firmware regularly

Use visible anti-theft devices as a deterrent

Looking Ahead: Smarter Cars, Smarter Drivers

Relay attacks are part of a larger trend — one where modern technology makes life more convenient, but also creates new risks. Just like we’ve learned to secure our phones and passwords, we now need to think about how we secure our vehicles.

As carmakers explore more secure solutions — like Ultra Wideband (UWB) tech and biometric verification — drivers still need to take responsibility for their vehicle’s safety. The tools are already out there, and many of them cost less than a meal out. It’s not just about avoiding theft; it’s about peace of mind.

So next time you get home, before tossing your keys on the hallway table, take a second to think: are they really safe there?

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Simple Tips to Free a Stuck Lock: What You Need to Know

Simple Tips to Free a Stuck Lock: What You Need to Know

Locks are meant to provide security, but when they seize up, they can leave you feeling frustrated and helpless. Dealing with a stuck lock is more common than you might think, and thankfully, there are affordable and effective solutions to get it working smoothly again. Whether it's a car door, trunk, or your home lock, here are some tried-and-true methods to free up a jammed lock. Why Locks Seize Up Understanding the causes behind a stuck lock can help you prevent it from happening in the future. Locks can seize up for various reasons: Dirt and Debris : Over time, dust, grime, or even small particles can accumulate inside the lock mechanism, making it harder for the internal parts to move smoothly. Rust and Corrosion : Exposure to moisture, humidity, or salty air can lead to rust buildup on metal parts within the lock, which can prevent movement. Lack of Lubrication : Locks need to be lubricated occasionally to ensure smooth operation. Without lubrication, friction increases, and the lock may eventually jam. Now, let’s look at some simple steps to tackle a seized lock. Step 1: Use Graphite Powder or Dry Lubricant The first thing to try is applying a lubricant, but be careful about what type you use. Wet or oil-based lubricants can attract dust, which eventually clogs the lock. Graphite Powder : This is one of the best options for freeing up a stuck lock. Sprinkle a small amount of graphite powder into the keyhole, insert the key, and gently move it back and forth. This spreads the graphite, reducing friction and allowing the lock components to move more freely. Dry Lubricants : These are specifically designed for locks and are ideal for situations where you want to avoid residue buildup. Spray a small amount into the lock, then insert the key and gently turn it. Pro Tip : Avoid using regular WD-40 or other oil-based products, as they may lead to a buildup over time, making the problem worse. Step 2: Try the Key with Gentle Force If lubrication alone doesn’t do the trick, the next step is to use a little gentle force with your key. Be cautious here; applying too much force could break the key inside the lock. Insert the Key : Once the lubricant has been applied, insert the key fully into the lock. Wiggle Carefully : Gently wiggle and turn the key without applying too much force. This movement may help distribute the lubricant further and gradually loosen up any stuck components. Caution : If you feel excessive resistance, don’t force the key. Forcing it can cause damage or even snap the key, which would require additional assistance to remove. Step 3: Warm Up the Lock (Especially Useful for Cold Weather) Cold temperatures can cause locks to seize due to ice or metal contraction. If you suspect the cold is the issue, warming up the lock can be effective. Use a Hair Dryer : Direct warm air onto the lock for several minutes to allow the metal to expand and the ice (if any) to melt. Heat the Key : You can also try warming the key slightly with a lighter, but exercise caution and make sure it isn’t too hot before inserting it into the lock. Safety Note : Avoid open flames directly on the lock itself, as this can damage surrounding surfaces or even warp the lock mechanism. Step 4: Use a Vinegar Solution for Corroded Locks If rust is the culprit, vinegar is a great household solution for loosening rust and corrosion in a lock. Apply Vinegar : Put a few drops of vinegar on the key, insert it into the lock, and let it sit for a minute or two. Vinegar can help dissolve light rust, making it easier to turn the key. Follow with Lubricant : After using vinegar, apply a small amount of graphite powder or dry lubricant to ensure the lock remains smooth and functional. Step 5: Work with Compressed Air to Remove Debris If dirt or debris has accumulated inside the lock, compressed air is a quick and efficient way to clear it out. Blow Out Dust : Use a can of compressed air and direct the nozzle into the keyhole. Short bursts of air can blow out dust and small debris that may be obstructing the mechanism. Follow Up : After using compressed air, it’s a good idea to add a dry lubricant to prevent any remaining dust from causing future jams. How to Prevent Lock Seizure in the Future Once you’ve successfully freed a seized lock, it’s helpful to take steps to prevent it from happening again. Here are some preventive tips: Regularly Lubricate : Use a dry lubricant or graphite powder once or twice a year, especially if you live in a humid or dusty area. Keep Locks Clean : Wipe off any visible dirt or dust around the lock mechanism. If the lock is exposed to elements (like outdoor or car locks), covering it can help keep debris and moisture out. Avoid Overusing Keys : If your key shows signs of wear, consider getting a replacement. Worn-out keys can cause more friction inside the lock, leading to jams. When to Seek Professional Help Sometimes, despite your best efforts, a lock just won’t budge. In cases where the lock is significantly damaged, heavily corroded, or if the key breaks inside, it’s best to reach out for professional assistance. A professional has specialized tools and expertise to address these issues without causing further damage. Taking Care of Your Locks A stuck lock can be an inconvenience, but by following these simple steps and using a little patience, you can often resolve the issue without professional help. Keeping locks in good condition with regular care is the key to ensuring they function smoothly for years to come.

What You Need To Know About BMW  Swirl Flaps and How To Solve The Problem With Them

What You Need To Know About BMW Swirl Flaps and How To Solve The Problem With Them

Swirl flaps are a BMW system that has been introduced to help burn the fuel mixture in the cylinder better due to the fact that diesel engines do not have throttle valves and it is not possible to adjust the air-fuel ratio. A diesel engine without vortex valves operates between a poor and a rich fuel mixture, because the only way to regulate it is through fuel injection. Design of the first generation swirl flaps that are made of made of metal. Unfortunately, swirl flaps are responsible for countless damaged engines and costly repairs due to design errors or metal fatigue. Once damaged, the cylinder sucks them in and causes great damage. This is how damaged valves damage the cylinder. Typical swirl flaps suction damage. The vortex valves are positioned in the inlet and are controlled by vacuum (DDE 4.0) or electrically (DDE5.0 / DDE6.4) by the engine ECU. Effects of malfunctioning valves: Swirl valves are stuck in open position: Deterioration of exhaust gas performance at lower speeds. Swirl valves are stuck in closed position: Approximate power loss of 10% at high engine speeds. How swirl flaps work: Performance characteristics: The vortex valves are in the closed position, at low engine speeds and small amounts of fuel injected (controlled by the ECU card). They open under the following conditions: coolant temperature <14 ° C OR * fuel quantity> 24 mg OR engine speed 2250 rpm OR inlet air temperature <-5 ° C BMW and Pierburg have decided to produce diesel engines with metal vortex valves. The speed at which the pistons in the diesel engine operate is at least 60 rpm, so a sucked vortex valve will break and cause a number of damages inside the engine. In most cases, one or more pistons are severely damaged, as a bonus you get valves, in some cases a head or turbocharger. And this combination with a BMW engine is like a cumulative jackpot 🙂 In 2004, BMW began work on the problem and improved the design, however, a number of owners reported ongoing problems in this area. The solution to this problem is by removing the vortex valves and plugging, which does not affect the performance of the engine and at the same time, you can safely pass the exhaust test. Engines: M47 (136hp VP44 fuel pump) has no valves. M47N common rail engine (including M47N / M47TU / M47TUD20) (150hp. Face lift model from 2001 -) has valves. M57 engines (M57D) (525d & 187hp. 330d) cars with manual transmission do not have valves, but those with automatic have. M57N engines (M57TUD) (525d & 330d 204hp) have vortex valves. Ruined swirl flaps: The plugs that replace the vortex valves are easy to find on the internet, but you can also find them here on our website. Typical plugs: Disassembly of vortex valves: The vortex valves can be safely dismantled and in most cases if they are removed properly no loss of power is felt. Final list of models for which vortex valves are installed: Engine: M47N/M47TU/M47TUD20 Applications: * 110 kW (148 hp) and 330 N·m (243 lb·ft) o E46 320d 2001-2005 o E83 X3 2.0d (up to end of 2006) Engine: M47TU2D20 The engine was updated again in 2004 as the M47TU2D20. Still at 1995 cc, it produced more power across the range. Applications: * 120 kW (161 hp) and 340 N·m (251 lb·ft) E60/E61 520d E87 120d E90/E91 320d E83 X3 2.0d (end of 2006 onwards) Engine: M57/M57D25 M57D25 was introduced in 2000. Applications: * 166 PS (122 kW; 164 hp) at 4000 rpm, 350 N·m (260 lb·ft) at 2000-2500 rpm with a 4750 rpm redline, models: 2000-2003 E39 525d *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY* Engine: M57N/M57TU/M57TUD25 M57TUD25 was introduced in 2004. Applications: * 177 PS (130 kW; 175 hp) at 4000 rpm, 400 N·m (300 lb·ft) at 2000-2750 rpm models: E60/E61 525d Engine: M57/M57D30 M57D30, also called M57D29, was introduced in 1998. Applications: * 184 PS (135 kW; 181 hp)@4000, 390 N·m (290 lb·ft)@1750-3200 models: E39 530d *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY* E46 330d/330xd *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY* * 184 PS (135 kW; 181 hp)@4000, 410 N·m (300 lb·ft)@2000-3000 models: E38 730d *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY* E53 X5 3.0d * 193 PS (142 kW; 190 hp)@4000, 410 N·m (300 lb·ft)@1750-3000 models: E38 730d E39 530d Engine: M57N/M57TU/M57TUD30 M57TUD30 was introduced in 2002. It originally produced 160 kW (215 hp) at 4000 rpm and 500 N·m (370 lb·ft) at 2000-2750 rpm, but was tweaked for 150 kW (201 hp) at 4000 rpm and 410 N·m (300 lb·ft) at 1500-3250 rpm for 2003 and again for 200 kW (268 hp) at 4000 rpm and 560 N·m (410 lb·ft) at 2000-2250 rpm in 2004. Applications: * 204 PS (150 kW; 201 hp)@4000, 410 N·m (300 lb·ft)@1500-3250 models: E46 330d/330Cd/330xd E83 X3 3.0d * 218 PS (160 kW; 215 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2750 models: E53 X5 3.0d E60/E61 530d/530xd E65 730d * 272 PS (200 kW; 268 hp)@4000, 560 N·m (410 lb·ft)@2000-2250 E60/E61 535d * 245 PS (180 kW; 242 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2250 * 286 PS (210 kW; 282 hp)@4000, 580 N·m (430 lb·ft)@2000-2250 Engine: M57TU2D30 M57TU2D30 was introduced in 2007, making its debut in the facelifted E60 and E61. * M57TU2D30-UL: 197 PS (145 kW; 194 hp) * M57TU2D30-OL: 235 PS (173 kW; 232 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2750 * M57TU2D30-TOP: 286 PS (210 kW; 282 hp), 580 N·m (430 lb·ft) Applications: * 197 PS (145 kW; 194 hp), 400 N·m (300 lb·ft) models: E90/E91/E92 325d E60/E61 525d/525xd * 231 PS (170 kW; 228 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2750 models: E65 730d E90/E91 325d E90/E91 330d/330xd * 235 PS (173 kW; 232 hp) models: E60/E61, BMW E70, BMW E71 * 286 PS (210 kW; 282 hp), 580 N·m (430 lb·ft) models: E60/E61 535d E70 X5 3.0sd E71 X6 xDrive35d E83 X3 3.0sd E90/E91 335d The above models are listed for information only if you want to to make sure your engine has valves installed, please contact a competent person. Please note that the information described above is for informational purposes only and does not claim to be reliable. Mr-key.com is not responsible for any repair work you undertake that is related to the topic described in this article.

How to Remove or Change a Roof Rack Lock Barrel Easily

How to Remove or Change a Roof Rack Lock Barrel Easily

Changing or removing the lock barrel on your roof rack may seem like a daunting task, but it’s actually simpler than you might think. Whether you need a replacement due to a lost key, wear and tear, or just want to swap out an old lock for a new one, following the right steps can make the process hassle-free. This guide will walk you through everything you need to know about handling a roof rack lock barrel with ease. Why You Might Need to Change a Roof Rack Lock Barrel ? There are several reasons why you may want to replace or remove your roof rack lock barrel: Lost Key : If you've misplaced the key, replacing the lock barrel is often the most practical solution. Upgrading the Lock : Maybe you want a more secure lock for added peace of mind. Routine Maintenance : Over time, lock barrels can wear down, making it harder to insert or turn the key. Uniformity : If you've recently changed your car key, you may want to match your roof rack lock with it. Knowing why you’re changing the lock barrel will help you determine the steps you need to follow. What You’ll Need Before you start, gather these essential tools and items: Replacement Lock Barrel : Ensure it’s compatible with your roof rack model. Master Key or Removal Key : Often required to remove the old lock barrel. New Key : The key that corresponds to the replacement lock barrel. Flathead Screwdriver : To gently pry and release certain parts if needed. Step-by-Step Guide to Removing a Roof Rack Lock Barrel Removing a lock barrel from your roof rack doesn’t require extensive mechanical skills. Just follow these straightforward steps: 1. Locate the Lock Barrel The lock barrel is usually situated in the center or side of the roof rack. Look for the small lock with the keyhole, as this is where you'll be inserting the master or removal key. 2. Insert the Master Key or Removal Key If you have a master or removal key, insert it into the lock. This is often a universal key provided by the lock manufacturer specifically for removing lock barrels. Once it’s inserted, turn the key slightly to unlock the barrel. Tip: If you don’t have a removal key, contact a professional or see if you can order one specifically for your model. 3. Pull the Lock Barrel Out With the removal key still in place, gently pull the lock barrel out. If it’s resistant, try wiggling it slightly while pulling. Avoid forcing it, as this could damage the lock or roof rack. In some cases, you may need a flathead screwdriver to help pry it out, but be careful not to scratch the surrounding area. 4. Check the Casing After removing the lock barrel, inspect the casing where the barrel was installed. Make sure it’s clean and free of debris. Any dirt or rust could interfere with the new lock barrel, so it’s a good idea to clean this area before proceeding. Installing the New Lock Barrel Once the old barrel is removed, you’re ready to install the new one. Here’s how: 1. Align the New Lock Barrel Take your new lock barrel and align it with the casing where the old one was. Most barrels are designed to fit in only one direction, so make sure you align it properly to avoid jamming. 2. Insert the New Barrel Push the new lock barrel into the casing until it clicks into place. This might require a bit of pressure, but it should fit snugly without needing excessive force. 3. Test the New Key After installing the new lock barrel, insert the new key and turn it to ensure it’s working smoothly. The key should turn easily and lock securely. This step verifies that the new lock is properly aligned and functional. Common Challenges and Solutions While changing a roof rack lock barrel is generally straightforward, you might encounter some challenges. Here’s how to troubleshoot common issues: Stuck Barrel : If the old barrel is stuck, apply a lubricant like WD-40 around the lock to help loosen it. No Removal Key : If you don’t have a master or removal key, consider reaching out to a locksmith or checking if the manufacturer offers a replacement. Barrel Won’t Fit : Ensure you’ve purchased a compatible lock barrel. Even slight differences in design can prevent it from fitting properly. Tips for Maintaining Your Roof Rack Lock To keep your new lock barrel in good condition and prevent the need for frequent replacements, consider these maintenance tips: Regular Cleaning : Dirt and grime can accumulate inside the lock over time, making it harder to operate. Clean the lock regularly to prevent this. Use Lubricant : Apply a small amount of lubricant inside the lock barrel periodically to keep the key turning smoothly. Protect from Rust : If your roof rack is exposed to rain and humidity, use a protective cover or shield to keep moisture out of the lock barrel. Check Key Fit : Avoid using a damaged or bent key, as this can wear out the lock barrel more quickly. When to Seek Professional Help In some cases, removing or replacing a roof rack lock barrel might require assistance from a professional: Lost or Damaged Keys : If both your main key and master key are lost or damaged, a professional can help retrieve or replace the lock barrel. Damaged Lock Mechanism : If the lock itself is damaged or jammed, forcing it can make things worse. A professional locksmith can safely remove and replace it. Replacing or removing a roof rack lock barrel is an affordable and manageable task for most car owners. By following the right steps and keeping up with regular maintenance, you can ensure your roof rack lock stays functional and secure. Whether you’re upgrading for security or replacing a worn-out lock, a new lock barrel can make all the difference in keeping your roof rack safe. Effortless Key Replacement for a Variety of Locks Order 2x Union Keys FT Series, custom-cut to your original key code, for a hassle-free replacement. Compatible with a range of locks, including those from Aston Martin, Jaguar, Land Rover, and more, these keys are perfect for classic cars, caravans, petrol caps, roof racks, and truck canopies. Simply find your lock code (e.g., FT101-FT360) on the lock face and enjoy fast delivery of high-quality spare keys.

Which Cars Benefit Most From Hydrogel Navigation Protection? (2026 Overview)

Which Cars Benefit Most From Hydrogel Navigation Protection? (2026 Overview)

Modern cars rely heavily on large navigation and infotainment screens. These displays are used constantly and exposed to scratches, fingerprints, dust, heat and direct sunlight. Repairs are expensive, and replacement screens can cost several hundred euros. A hydrogel screen protector adds a thin, flexible layer that guards the display without affecting clarity or touch response. Premium and Luxury Models Premium brands adopted large infotainment screens early, making them among the most likely to benefit. BMW models such as the 3 Series , 5 Series and X5 use wide, high-resolution displays (up to 14.9”). Audi cars like the A4 , A6 and Q5 include 10–12” touchscreens. Mercedes-Benz models such as the C-Class , E-Class and GLC use vertically oriented 11–12” MBUX screens. Porsche vehicles (Cayenne, Macan, Panamera) and Tesla models (Model 3, Y, S) use some of the largest screens in Europe. These vehicles benefit significantly from a hydrogel protector thanks to their large surfaces and frequent touch use. Popular European Models Mainstream European cars now feature screens as large as luxury models. Volkswagen offers 10–15” displays in models such as the Golf , Tiguan and Passat . Škoda uses up to 13” screens in the Octavia , Superb and Kodiaq . Dacia equips models like the Jogger , Duster and Sandero with 7–10” displays. Toyota (Corolla, RAV4, Yaris Cross). Renault (Captur, Clio, Megane E-Tech). Peugeot (208, 3008, 5008) Citroën (C4, C5 Aircross) Nissan (Qashqai, Juke, Leaf) Ford (Focus, Kuga) Kia (Sportage, Ceed, Niro, Picanto, Stonic, Rio, Sorento) all rely on large central touchscreens. As screens grow in size across all price segments, protection becomes increasingly important. Benefits of Hydrogel Screen Protectors Hydrogel film is thin, flexible and adheres tightly. It works on flat and curved surfaces where tempered glass cannot. The material absorbs small impacts and can self-heal minor marks. With its anti-glare properties It keeps the display clear, maintains original brightness and preserves smooth touch performance. It also helps reduce smudges and makes daily cleaning easier. Once you’ve chosen a hydrogel protector for your car, the next step is applying it correctly. Follow our step-by-step guide on how to install a hydrogel navigation screen protector for a perfect bubble-free result. Who Needs Hydrogel Protection the Most? Any car with: a large touchscreen (8” or more) glossy glass prone to fingerprints curved edges high cabin sun exposure Hydrogel is especially useful for daily drivers, family cars and vehicles where multiple people interact with the system. Rental, Company and Service Vehicles Benefit Even More Cars used for business—such as rental cars , company vehicles , fleet cars , taxis , and service vehicles —experience significantly higher daily usage than private cars. Their navigation screens are touched constantly by different drivers, exposed to dust, temperature changes and frequent cleaning. Because of this heavy wear, screens in rental and company vehicles are far more likely to show scratches, fingerprints and long-term damage. A hydrogel dashboard screen protector adds a durable layer that absorbs daily abuse, keeps the display clear for every driver and reduces maintenance costs for fleet managers. For any vehicle that is shared or driven by multiple users, screen protection is not just useful—it’s essential . FAQ What is a hydrogel screen protector? A thin, flexible film that protects a car’s navigation or dashboard display. How is it installed? Clean the screen, align the film and press it down. Dry installation is recommended. What are the benefits? Scratch resistance, impact absorption, reduced fingerprints and full coverage on curved screens. Is it compatible with all cars? Yes, if you choose a protector cut for your specific model. Does it affect touch response? No. Hydrogel keeps full touch accuracy. How long does it last? Usually 1–3 years, depending on use. Easy to replace. Hydrogel vs tempered glass? Hydrogel fits curved screens and absorbs impacts. Glass is harder but can crack and does not cover complex shapes. For more in depth guide check out Hydrogel vs Tempered Glass Navigation Protectors Comparison How can I protect my car’s navigation screen from scratches and fingerprints? If you want to know more about How to Protect Your Car’s Navigation Screen from Scratches and Fingerprints check out our guide. Visit mr-key.com to find a custom-cut hydrogel protector for your car model. Related Guides How to Install a Hydrogel Navigation Screen Protector How to Protect Your Car’s Navigation Screen from Scratches, Glare & Fingerprints Hydrogel vs Tempered Glass Navigation Protectors Comparison

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