Post Name

Modern car keys are more than just simple tools to unlock doors—they're powerful components of your vehicle’s security system. Hidden inside many keys is a small yet crucial piece of technology known as a transponder chip.
But how can you tell if your car key has one?

Whether you’ve lost your key, are looking to replace it, or simply want to understand your vehicle better, knowing if your key contains a transponder chip is essential. This guide will explain what a transponder is, why it matters, and how you can easily check if your key is equipped with one.

What Is a Transponder Chip?

A transponder chip, short for "transmitter + responder," is a small electronic microchip embedded inside the plastic head of the car key or within a smart key fob.
When you insert the key into the ignition—or have it nearby in a push-button start system—the chip emits a unique signal. The vehicle’s onboard computer must recognize this signal before it will allow the engine to start.

Without the correct signal, even if the key physically fits into the ignition, the car won’t move. Transponders have been a game-changer in reducing car theft, and today, nearly all vehicles produced after the late 1990s are equipped with them.

Learn more about how modern keys work and find replacement options in our car keys collection.

Why It’s Critical to Know If Your Key Has a Chip

If your key has a hidden transponder chip, replacing it is more complicated than simply cutting a new metal key. You will need a key that not only matches the cut but also includes the correct programming to communicate with your car’s immobilizer system.
Failing to recognize this can lead to frustration, extra dealership fees, or even being stranded.

Moreover, understanding your key's technology helps you make smarter choices when buying a spare, upgrading your security setup, or troubleshooting ignition issues.

How to Check If Your Car Key Has a Transponder Chip

Fortunately, you don’t need expensive equipment to find out. Start by considering the age of your vehicle: if your car was manufactured after 1995 (in Europe) or 1998 (in the USA), chances are very high it uses a transponder system.

Next, examine the physical key. Keys with large, bulky plastic heads usually house a chip inside. In contrast, purely metallic keys without plastic parts tend to belong to older, non-transponder vehicles.

You can also perform a simple foil test. Wrap the head of your key in aluminum foil and try to start the car. Since foil blocks radio frequencies, if the car refuses to start, it’s likely that a transponder chip is present.

If you want absolute certainty, consult your vehicle’s manual or speak with a professional locksmith. Many locksmiths use specialized tools to detect whether a chip exists. For additional technical explanation, you can refer to this guide on how immobilizer systems work.

What Happens If the Transponder Signal Is Missing?

If you try to start your car without the proper transponder signal, the immobilizer system kicks in.
Most vehicles will either not crank at all or crank without allowing the engine to fire. Some models will display a warning light on the dashboard, often shaped like a padlock or a car with a key icon.

Without a valid transponder signal, you won't be going anywhere—no matter how new or well-cut the key is.

Can You Program a Transponder Key Yourself?

Depending on the make and model of your car, some basic keys can be programmed at home—especially if you already have one working key available.
However, many newer vehicles require professional diagnostic tools connected directly to the car’s computer to program keys securely. Attempting DIY programming on these systems without the right knowledge can lock your car’s immobilizer and lead to expensive repairs.

Always consult your car’s manual or seek professional help before attempting any programming yourself.

Knowledge = Protection

Understanding whether your car key contains a hidden transponder chip isn’t just a fun fact—it's essential for protecting your vehicle and saving yourself time, money, and hassle.
Whether you're planning to replace a worn-out key, add a backup, or upgrade your security, knowing what’s inside your key helps you make better, safer decisions.

If you ever need a spare key, a battery replacement, or advice on key maintenance, you can explore more in our online store at Mr Key.

Remember: a smart driver is a secure driver. Stay informed, stay prepared, and you'll always stay one step ahead.

Related Posts

5 Signs Your Car Key Battery Needs Replacement – Don’t Get Locked Out!

5 Signs Your Car Key Battery Needs Replacement – Don’t Get Locked Out!

Have you ever pressed your car key fob multiple times without an immediate response? It’s frustrating, right? A drained key fob battery can cause unexpected issues, and if you don’t replace it in time, you might find yourself locked out of your car at the worst moment. Fortunately, there are some telltale signs that indicate your car key battery is running low – and replacing it is a quick and cost-effective fix. Your car key is one of the most essential accessories you use daily, yet we often overlook its maintenance. While it may seem small, the proper functioning of your key fob is crucial for your convenience and security. Here are five signs that it’s time to replace your key battery before it stops working completely. 1. Your Key Works Intermittently One of the first signs of a weakening battery is an inconsistent key fob response. If it works fine sometimes but requires multiple button presses at other times, the battery is likely running low. A new battery will restore the key’s normal sensitivity. This issue can be especially frustrating when you're in a hurry or carrying items and need your car to unlock instantly. If you notice your key fob working intermittently, don’t wait until you get locked out—replace the battery promptly. 2. The Signal Range Has Decreased A brand-new car key fob allows you to lock and unlock your vehicle from a considerable distance. If you’ve noticed that you now need to be much closer for the key to work, this is a clear sign that the battery is weakening. Modern key fobs can control your vehicle from as far as 15 meters or more. When you find yourself needing to be right next to the car for it to respond, it’s time to replace the battery. A weak signal can lead to access and ignition problems, which can be inconvenient in daily use. 3. You Need to Press the Buttons Harder A properly functioning car key should respond immediately to a simple press of a button. If you need to press harder or hold the button longer for it to work, the battery is no longer providing enough power to send a strong signal. Beyond just being inconvenient, this can also damage the key fob itself due to increased pressure on the electronic components. Replacing the battery will help you avoid additional wear and tear and ensure your key works smoothly without extra effort. 4. Your Car No Longer Recognizes the Key For vehicles with push-button start systems, the key fob must be close enough for the car to detect it. If your car struggles to recognize the key and you have to bring it closer to the dashboard or ignition button, this is a clear sign of a low battery. This can be particularly annoying on rainy days or when you’re in a hurry. A properly functioning key fob should allow seamless use of your vehicle without delays or the need to adjust its position. 5. The Key Stops Working Completely If your key fob suddenly stops working and you have ruled out other possible causes, such as a damaged circuit or faulty buttons, the battery is most likely completely drained. Before you panic and assume the key fob is broken, try replacing the battery first. It’s a simple and inexpensive solution that restores your key’s functionality in seconds. How to Replace Your Car Key Battery Changing your car key battery is usually a straightforward task that only requires a small screwdriver and a new CR2032 battery. Locate the seam along the key fob’s edge and carefully pry it open. Remove the old battery and observe its position, then insert the new battery in the same orientation. In less than five minutes, your key will work like new again. There’s no need to spend money on a replacement key when a battery swap is a quick and affordable fix. Don’t Wait Until It’s Too Late! Preventative maintenance is key to avoiding unnecessary hassles. If your key is showing signs of weakness, don’t ignore them! Replace the battery in time and ensure your vehicle operates flawlessly.

What You Need To Know About BMW  Swirl Flaps and How To Solve The Problem With Them

What You Need To Know About BMW  Swirl Flaps and How To Solve The Problem With Them

Swirl flaps are a BMW system that has been introduced to help burn the fuel mixture in the cylinder better due to the fact that diesel engines do not have throttle valves and it is not possible to adjust the air-fuel ratio. A diesel engine without vortex valves operates between a poor and a rich fuel mixture, because the only way to regulate it is through fuel injection. Design of the first generation swirl flaps that are made of made of metal. Unfortunately, swirl flaps are responsible for countless damaged engines and costly repairs due to design errors or metal fatigue. Once damaged, the cylinder sucks them in and causes great damage. This is how damaged valves damage the cylinder. Typical swirl flaps suction damage. The vortex valves are positioned in the inlet and are controlled by vacuum (DDE 4.0) or electrically (DDE5.0 / DDE6.4) by the engine ECU. Effects of malfunctioning valves: Swirl valves are stuck in open position: Deterioration of exhaust gas performance at lower speeds. Swirl valves are stuck in closed position: Approximate power loss of 10% at high engine speeds. How swirl flaps work: Performance characteristics: The vortex valves are in the closed position, at low engine speeds and small amounts of fuel injected (controlled by the ECU card). They open under the following conditions: coolant temperature <14 ° C OR * fuel quantity> 24 mg OR 2. engine speed 2250 rpm OR 3. inlet air temperature <-5 ° C. BMW and Pierburg have decided to produce diesel engines with metal vortex valves. The speed at which the pistons in the diesel engine operate is at least 60 rpm, so a sucked vortex valve will break and cause a number of damages inside the engine. In most cases, one or more pistons are severely damaged, as a bonus you get valves, in some cases a head or turbocharger. And this combination with a BMW engine is like a cumulative jackpot 🙂 In 2004, BMW began work on the problem and improved the design, however, a number of owners reported ongoing problems in this area. The solution to this problem is by removing the vortex valves and plugging, which does not affect the performance of the engine and at the same time, you can safely pass the exhaust test. Engines: M47 (136hp VP44 fuel pump) has no valves. M47N common rail engine (including M47N / M47TU / M47TUD20) (150hp. Face lift model from 2001 -) has valves. M57 engines (M57D) (525d & 187hp. 330d) cars with manual transmission do not have valves, but those with automatic have. M57N engines (M57TUD) (525d & 330d 204hp) have vortex valves. Ruined swirl flapss: The plugs that replace the vortex valves are easy to find on the internet, but you can also find them here on our website. Typical plugs: Disassembly of vortex valves: The vortex valves can be safely dismantled and in most cases if they are removed properly no loss of power is felt. Final list of models for which vortex valves are installed: Engine: M47N/M47TU/M47TUD20 Applications: * 110 kW (148 hp) and 330 N·m (243 lb·ft) o E46 320d 2001-2005 o E83 X3 2.0d (up to end of 2006) Engine: M47TU2D20 The engine was updated again in 2004 as the M47TU2D20. Still at 1995 cc, it produced more power across the range. Applications: * 120 kW (161 hp) and 340 N·m (251 lb·ft) E60/E61 520d E87 120d E90/E91 320d E83 X3 2.0d (end of 2006 onwards) Engine: M57/M57D25 M57D25 was introduced in 2000. Applications: * 166 PS (122 kW; 164 hp) at 4000 rpm, 350 N·m (260 lb·ft) at 2000-2500 rpm with a 4750 rpm redline, models: 2000-2003 E39 525d *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY* Engine: M57N/M57TU/M57TUD25 M57TUD25 was introduced in 2004. Applications: * 177 PS (130 kW; 175 hp) at 4000 rpm, 400 N·m (300 lb·ft) at 2000-2750 rpm models: E60/E61 525d Engine: M57/M57D30 M57D30, also called M57D29, was introduced in 1998. Applications: * 184 PS (135 kW; 181 hp)@4000, 390 N·m (290 lb·ft)@1750-3200 models: E39 530d *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY* E46 330d/330xd *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY* * 184 PS (135 kW; 181 hp)@4000, 410 N·m (300 lb·ft)@2000-3000 models: E38 730d *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY* E53 X5 3.0d * 193 PS (142 kW; 190 hp)@4000, 410 N·m (300 lb·ft)@1750-3000 models: E38 730d E39 530d Engine: M57N/M57TU/M57TUD30 M57TUD30 was introduced in 2002. It originally produced 160 kW (215 hp) at 4000 rpm and 500 N·m (370 lb·ft) at 2000-2750 rpm, but was tweaked for 150 kW (201 hp) at 4000 rpm and 410 N·m (300 lb·ft) at 1500-3250 rpm for 2003 and again for 200 kW (268 hp) at 4000 rpm and 560 N·m (410 lb·ft) at 2000-2250 rpm in 2004. Applications: * 204 PS (150 kW; 201 hp)@4000, 410 N·m (300 lb·ft)@1500-3250 models: E46 330d/330Cd/330xd E83 X3 3.0d * 218 PS (160 kW; 215 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2750 models: E53 X5 3.0d E60/E61 530d/530xd E65 730d * 272 PS (200 kW; 268 hp)@4000, 560 N·m (410 lb·ft)@2000-2250 E60/E61 535d * 245 PS (180 kW; 242 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2250 * 286 PS (210 kW; 282 hp)@4000, 580 N·m (430 lb·ft)@2000-2250 Engine: M57TU2D30 M57TU2D30 was introduced in 2007, making its debut in the facelifted E60 and E61. * M57TU2D30-UL: 197 PS (145 kW; 194 hp) * M57TU2D30-OL: 235 PS (173 kW; 232 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2750 * M57TU2D30-TOP: 286 PS (210 kW; 282 hp), 580 N·m (430 lb·ft) Applications: * 197 PS (145 kW; 194 hp), 400 N·m (300 lb·ft) models: E90/E91/E92 325d E60/E61 525d/525xd * 231 PS (170 kW; 228 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2750 models: E65 730d E90/E91 325d E90/E91 330d/330xd * 235 PS (173 kW; 232 hp) models: E60/E61, BMW E70, BMW E71 * 286 PS (210 kW; 282 hp), 580 N·m (430 lb·ft) models: E60/E61 535d E70 X5 3.0sd E71 X6 xDrive35d E83 X3 3.0sd E90/E91 335d The above models are listed for information only if you want to to make sure your engine has valves installed, please contact a competent person. Please note that the information described above is for informational purposes only and does not claim to be reliable. Mr-key.com is not responsible for any repair work you undertake that is related to the topic described in this article.

The Ultimate Guide to Opel, Peugeot, and Citroën Car Keys: Battery Replacement, Flip Key Issues, and Shell Compatibility

The Ultimate Guide to Opel, Peugeot, and Citroën Car Keys: Battery Replacement, Flip Key Issues, and Shell Compatibility

Car keys have come a long way from simple metal tools to advanced electronic devices. While they offer convenience and security, they're also prone to wear and tear over time. If you own an Opel, Peugeot, or Citroën, you've likely encountered a dead battery, faulty buttons, or a cracked key shell. These issues, though frustrating, are easy to fix with the right approach. This guide explores everything you need to know to maintain or restore your car key's functionality—without unnecessary expense. From understanding how these keys work, to step-by-step maintenance practices, we'll walk you through all the essentials to keep your keys working like new. How Car Keys Work Today Modern car keys are more than just tools to unlock and start your vehicle. They are miniaturized computers embedded with microchips, transponders, and signal systems that communicate with your car's onboard electronics. Most Opel, Peugeot, and Citroën models feature flip keys with integrated remote buttons, and inside each key fob lies a delicate configuration of electronics that perform critical functions like remote unlocking and engine ignition authorization. These keys depend heavily on power from a small coin-cell battery, usually the CR2032. While small and seemingly insignificant, the battery is the heart of your key fob. When it begins to fail, even slightly, the symptoms can range from reduced signal range to complete unresponsiveness. That’s why it’s crucial to replace it in time. Replacing the Battery in Opel Car Keys Your Opel car key is essential to your daily routine. Over time, the lithium CR2032 battery inside may weaken, resulting in slower response or reduced range. The good news is that replacing it is straightforward and requires only a few tools. Once you identify your key type—typically a flip key with two or three buttons—you can open the casing using a small screwdriver or plastic tool. Inside, you'll find a battery nestled within the key's internal framework. Carefully remove the old battery and insert a new CR2032, ideally a reliable model like the Panasonic CR2032 . Proper alignment is crucial; the wrong orientation can prevent the key from functioning entirely. Align the shell halves carefully and press them back together until they click into place. If your key shell is also showing signs of damage or wear, consider replacing it with this Opel 3-button key housing . Replacing the battery is a quick job, but it makes a world of difference in reliability and peace of mind. Plus, it spares you the inconvenience of getting stranded or needing dealer intervention. Common Peugeot Flip Key Issues and How to Fix Them Peugeot flip keys are compact and stylish, but frequent use can expose a few recurring problems. The flip mechanism may lose tension, buttons may stop responding, or the outer shell may crack. In many cases, the spring inside wears down, and the plastic buttons may degrade over time. Exposure to moisture, dirt, or accidental drops can also damage the key fob. These symptoms can often be resolved by replacing both the battery and the key shell. Thankfully, most replacement shells come with a new flip mechanism already installed, making the process quick and cost-effective. If you're dealing with a damaged shell or non-functional buttons, a compatible Peugeot key shell can restore both the look and performance of your key. To repair your key, begin by opening the shell using a thin screwdriver. Remove the internal circuit board and transponder chip carefully. Transfer them into the new shell, ensuring everything fits snugly. Insert a fresh CR2032 battery before closing the key shell, then test all functions. Unlike dealer replacements, this DIY approach is affordable and efficient, putting the control in your hands. Understanding Citroën Key Shell Compatibility Citroën keys often resemble Peugeot models but feature subtle design differences that can impact shell compatibility. Before purchasing a replacement shell, it's important to examine a few key details. First, confirm that the button layout matches exactly—some models include a trunk release, while others do not. Next, check the blade type, usually HU83 or VA2, and make sure your new shell supports that configuration. You’ll also need to ensure there’s a space for the transponder chip, as without it, your car won’t start. Lastly, confirm that your circuit board (PCB) fits securely in the new housing. If you're unsure, compare your key with this Citroën 3-button shell for reference. A mismatched shell can result in poor fitment, misaligned buttons, or failure to lock and unlock your car. That’s why it's important to compare your current key closely to any replacement product. Shell replacements are not one-size-fits-all—small deviations in size or design can render them useless. Going Beyond: Caring for Your Car Key Long-Term Maintaining your car key goes beyond occasional repairs. Think of it as part of your overall vehicle care routine. Keep your key clean by regularly wiping it down with a soft cloth. Avoid exposing it to moisture or extreme temperatures, which can damage the battery and internal electronics. If your key starts to feel loose or if the blade no longer flips smoothly, it's a sign that maintenance is due. Another often-overlooked aspect is the condition of your key ring. Overloaded or heavy keychains can put unnecessary strain on the ignition switch and the key’s blade over time. Keeping your key light and secure can prolong both the key and the ignition system’s lifespan. If you find yourself frequently pressing buttons or experiencing lag in signal response, don't ignore it. These early symptoms are usually signs that a new battery is needed, or the shell's contacts are worn. Addressing small problems before they escalate can save you from full key failure. Car Key Maintenance Caring for your car key doesn’t have to be a daunting task. Whether you drive an Opel, a Peugeot, or a Citroën, regular maintenance and minor DIY repairs can significantly extend the life of your key. Replacing a worn battery and upgrading a broken shell not only restores functionality but also revives the overall appearance of your key. Use quality components, take your time during repairs, and always test your key before final assembly. By taking these small steps, you can avoid costly replacements and enjoy reliable key performance for years to come. Explore trusted replacement parts and accessories online at mr-key.com to keep your car keys in top condition year-round.

What You Need To Know About BMW  Swirl Flaps and How To Solve The Problem With Them

What You Need To Know About BMW Swirl Flaps and How To Solve The Problem With Them

Swirl flaps are a BMW system that has been introduced to help burn the fuel mixture in the cylinder better due to the fact that diesel engines do not have throttle valves and it is not possible to adjust the air-fuel ratio. A diesel engine without vortex valves operates between a poor and a rich fuel mixture, because the only way to regulate it is through fuel injection. Design of the first generation swirl flaps that are made of made of metal. Unfortunately, swirl flaps are responsible for countless damaged engines and costly repairs due to design errors or metal fatigue. Once damaged, the cylinder sucks them in and causes great damage. This is how damaged valves damage the cylinder. Typical swirl flaps suction damage. The vortex valves are positioned in the inlet and are controlled by vacuum (DDE 4.0) or electrically (DDE5.0 / DDE6.4) by the engine ECU. Effects of malfunctioning valves: Swirl valves are stuck in open position: Deterioration of exhaust gas performance at lower speeds. Swirl valves are stuck in closed position: Approximate power loss of 10% at high engine speeds. How swirl flaps work: Performance characteristics: The vortex valves are in the closed position, at low engine speeds and small amounts of fuel injected (controlled by the ECU card). They open under the following conditions: coolant temperature <14 ° C OR * fuel quantity> 24 mg OR engine speed 2250 rpm OR inlet air temperature <-5 ° C BMW and Pierburg have decided to produce diesel engines with metal vortex valves. The speed at which the pistons in the diesel engine operate is at least 60 rpm, so a sucked vortex valve will break and cause a number of damages inside the engine. In most cases, one or more pistons are severely damaged, as a bonus you get valves, in some cases a head or turbocharger. And this combination with a BMW engine is like a cumulative jackpot 🙂 In 2004, BMW began work on the problem and improved the design, however, a number of owners reported ongoing problems in this area. The solution to this problem is by removing the vortex valves and plugging, which does not affect the performance of the engine and at the same time, you can safely pass the exhaust test. Engines: M47 (136hp VP44 fuel pump) has no valves. M47N common rail engine (including M47N / M47TU / M47TUD20) (150hp. Face lift model from 2001 -) has valves. M57 engines (M57D) (525d & 187hp. 330d) cars with manual transmission do not have valves, but those with automatic have. M57N engines (M57TUD) (525d & 330d 204hp) have vortex valves. Ruined swirl flaps: The plugs that replace the vortex valves are easy to find on the internet, but you can also find them here on our website. Typical plugs: Disassembly of vortex valves: The vortex valves can be safely dismantled and in most cases if they are removed properly no loss of power is felt. Final list of models for which vortex valves are installed: Engine: M47N/M47TU/M47TUD20 Applications: * 110 kW (148 hp) and 330 N·m (243 lb·ft) o E46 320d 2001-2005 o E83 X3 2.0d (up to end of 2006) Engine: M47TU2D20 The engine was updated again in 2004 as the M47TU2D20. Still at 1995 cc, it produced more power across the range. Applications: * 120 kW (161 hp) and 340 N·m (251 lb·ft) E60/E61 520d E87 120d E90/E91 320d E83 X3 2.0d (end of 2006 onwards) Engine: M57/M57D25 M57D25 was introduced in 2000. Applications: * 166 PS (122 kW; 164 hp) at 4000 rpm, 350 N·m (260 lb·ft) at 2000-2500 rpm with a 4750 rpm redline, models: 2000-2003 E39 525d *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY* Engine: M57N/M57TU/M57TUD25 M57TUD25 was introduced in 2004. Applications: * 177 PS (130 kW; 175 hp) at 4000 rpm, 400 N·m (300 lb·ft) at 2000-2750 rpm models: E60/E61 525d Engine: M57/M57D30 M57D30, also called M57D29, was introduced in 1998. Applications: * 184 PS (135 kW; 181 hp)@4000, 390 N·m (290 lb·ft)@1750-3200 models: E39 530d *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY* E46 330d/330xd *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY* * 184 PS (135 kW; 181 hp)@4000, 410 N·m (300 lb·ft)@2000-3000 models: E38 730d *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY* E53 X5 3.0d * 193 PS (142 kW; 190 hp)@4000, 410 N·m (300 lb·ft)@1750-3000 models: E38 730d E39 530d Engine: M57N/M57TU/M57TUD30 M57TUD30 was introduced in 2002. It originally produced 160 kW (215 hp) at 4000 rpm and 500 N·m (370 lb·ft) at 2000-2750 rpm, but was tweaked for 150 kW (201 hp) at 4000 rpm and 410 N·m (300 lb·ft) at 1500-3250 rpm for 2003 and again for 200 kW (268 hp) at 4000 rpm and 560 N·m (410 lb·ft) at 2000-2250 rpm in 2004. Applications: * 204 PS (150 kW; 201 hp)@4000, 410 N·m (300 lb·ft)@1500-3250 models: E46 330d/330Cd/330xd E83 X3 3.0d * 218 PS (160 kW; 215 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2750 models: E53 X5 3.0d E60/E61 530d/530xd E65 730d * 272 PS (200 kW; 268 hp)@4000, 560 N·m (410 lb·ft)@2000-2250 E60/E61 535d * 245 PS (180 kW; 242 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2250 * 286 PS (210 kW; 282 hp)@4000, 580 N·m (430 lb·ft)@2000-2250 Engine: M57TU2D30 M57TU2D30 was introduced in 2007, making its debut in the facelifted E60 and E61. * M57TU2D30-UL: 197 PS (145 kW; 194 hp) * M57TU2D30-OL: 235 PS (173 kW; 232 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2750 * M57TU2D30-TOP: 286 PS (210 kW; 282 hp), 580 N·m (430 lb·ft) Applications: * 197 PS (145 kW; 194 hp), 400 N·m (300 lb·ft) models: E90/E91/E92 325d E60/E61 525d/525xd * 231 PS (170 kW; 228 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2750 models: E65 730d E90/E91 325d E90/E91 330d/330xd * 235 PS (173 kW; 232 hp) models: E60/E61, BMW E70, BMW E71 * 286 PS (210 kW; 282 hp), 580 N·m (430 lb·ft) models: E60/E61 535d E70 X5 3.0sd E71 X6 xDrive35d E83 X3 3.0sd E90/E91 335d The above models are listed for information only if you want to to make sure your engine has valves installed, please contact a competent person. Please note that the information described above is for informational purposes only and does not claim to be reliable. Mr-key.com is not responsible for any repair work you undertake that is related to the topic described in this article.

Chat with us