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In modern vehicles, the once simple car key has evolved into a sophisticated piece of technology. With built-in electronics, anti-theft features, and remote functions, today’s car key is part of a broader ecosystem designed for both convenience and security.

Yet with all this advancement comes confusion. Many drivers aren’t sure what terms like immobilizer, transponder chip, and key fob actually mean—or how they relate to one another.

This guide breaks down these components in detail, explains how they work together, and clarifies why it matters when you’re replacing, reprogramming, or troubleshooting your car key.

What Is an Immobilizer?

An immobilizer is an electronic security device installed in most modern cars. Its purpose is to prevent the engine from starting unless the correct key—specifically, the correct coded signal—is detected.

When you attempt to start your vehicle, the system searches for a signal from a registered transponder chip. If that signal is missing or incorrect, the immobilizer blocks the ignition system. This means the engine won’t crank or turn over, even if the physical key fits.

Immobilizers are embedded in the car’s engine control unit (ECU) and became standard in vehicles after the late 1990s in many countries, in response to rising car theft.

They offer a silent, invisible layer of protection against common theft techniques like hotwiring. Without the correct digital authentication, the car simply will not start.

What Is a Transponder Chip?

The transponder chip is a small electronic microchip located inside the car key or key fob. The word “transponder” is a combination of “transmitter” and “responder.” It is designed to emit a unique code that the car's immobilizer can recognize.

When you insert the key into the ignition or bring a key fob close to a push-start system, the chip sends a signal to the car’s ECU. If the code matches the one stored in the car’s database, the immobilizer disables itself and allows the engine to start.

Transponder chips are passive. They do not require a battery and are activated by electromagnetic energy from the ignition coil or receiver unit inside the vehicle.

Without a functioning or correctly programmed transponder chip, your car will not start—even if the metal key turns in the ignition.

What Is a Key Fob?

A key fob is the remote control device you carry that allows you to perform functions like locking or unlocking your car, opening the trunk, and activating panic alarms. In modern vehicles, key fobs may also control remote start or proximity-based unlocking features.

While key fobs often include a transponder chip inside them, they serve a different function. The key fob operates remote commands via short-range radio signals. The transponder chip, on the other hand, is responsible for enabling or disabling the engine.

Smart key fobs, found in many recent vehicles, don’t require insertion into the ignition. Instead, the car detects the fob nearby and permits the engine to start with a button press.

If your key fob battery dies, you might still be able to start the car manually if the transponder chip is present and recognized. Most fobs also have a hidden mechanical key inside, which can be used to unlock the door if the electronics fail.

How They Work Together

Although they are distinct components, the immobilizer, transponder chip, and key fob all work in harmony to secure and operate your vehicle.

The immobilizer controls whether the engine is allowed to start.

The transponder chip provides the digital identity that must be verified by the immobilizer.

The key fob provides wireless control of non-engine functions like locking, unlocking, and trunk access.

In most modern cars:

You approach the vehicle with the key fob.

The fob unlocks the doors.

When you start the vehicle, the transponder chip sends a signal to the immobilizer.

If the code matches, the engine is authorized to start.

If the code doesn’t match, or if the chip is missing or damaged, the engine remains disabled—even if the rest of the key’s functions work perfectly.

Why This Knowledge Matters

Understanding how your car key works is essential when:

Replacing a lost or broken key

Buying a spare or duplicate

Diagnosing why your car won’t start

Choosing between locksmith and dealership services

For example, if your key fob unlocks your car but won’t start it, the issue may lie with the transponder chip, not the battery. Conversely, if your fob doesn’t lock or unlock the car remotely, the chip may still be functional, and the issue could simply be a dead battery.

Replacing a key without properly programming the transponder chip will result in a non-starting vehicle, even if the key physically fits and the remote works.

For reliable replacement keys, fobs, batteries, and accessories, visit our Car Key Collection.

Car keys are no longer just mechanical tools. They’re complex, multi-function devices that combine security, convenience, and connectivity. By understanding the role of the immobilizer, transponder chip, and key fob, you’ll not only protect your vehicle better, but also avoid costly mistakes when dealing with repairs or replacements.

Whether you’re troubleshooting a non-starting car or simply trying to replace a damaged key, knowing the difference between these three elements gives you the clarity and confidence to take the right action.

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5 Common Car Key Problems and Easy Fixes to Get You Back on the Road

5 Common Car Key Problems and Easy Fixes to Get You Back on the Road

Losing or encountering issues with your car key can feel like a nightmare, especially when you’re in a hurry. From unresponsive key fobs to stuck keys, these problems are more common than you might think. The good news? Most of these issues have simple, affordable fixes that you can address quickly. This guide will help you identify common car key problems and provide solutions to get you back on track without breaking the bank. 1. Key Won’t Turn in the Ignition Why It Happens: When your car key refuses to turn, it’s often due to a worn-out key, a damaged ignition cylinder, or a locked steering wheel. How to Fix It: Check the Steering Wheel: If the wheel is locked, try gently turning the steering wheel left and right while turning the key in the ignition. Inspect the Key: A bent or worn-out key can cause alignment issues. Try a spare key if you have one. Lubricate the Ignition: Use a small amount of graphite lubricant (avoid oil-based products) to loosen the ignition cylinder. If All Else Fails: Consult a professional to replace the key or ignition lock. Tip: Avoid forcing the key, as this could damage the ignition further. 2. Car Key Fob Isn’t Responding Why It Happens: Modern key fobs are convenient, but they rely on batteries and electronic components that can fail. A dead battery is the most common culprit. How to Fix It: Replace the Battery: Open your key fob (usually with a small screwdriver) and swap out the old battery for a fresh one. Most fobs use coin-shaped batteries like CR2032. Reprogram the Key Fob: If changing the battery doesn’t work, your fob may need reprogramming. Follow your car manual’s instructions or consult a professional locksmith. Check for Damage: Inspect the buttons and internal components for signs of wear or moisture. Tip: Always keep a spare battery on hand to avoid unexpected key fob failures. 3. Key Stuck in the Ignition Why It Happens: This issue often stems from a locked transmission, dirt in the ignition, or a worn-out key that doesn’t align properly. How to Fix It: Ensure the Car Is in Park: For automatic cars, check that the gear shifter is fully in the “Park” position. Clean the Ignition: Use compressed air to remove dirt or debris from the keyhole. Jiggle the Key: Gently wiggle the key while applying light pressure to help free it. Inspect for Damage: If the key is bent, avoid forcing it. A professional can help safely extract it. Tip: If the problem persists, you may need to replace the ignition cylinder or key to prevent further damage. 4. Worn or Damaged Car Key Why It Happens: Over time, constant use can wear down the grooves on your key, making it difficult to start the car or open the doors. How to Fix It: Get a Duplicate Key: If your key is showing wear, have a duplicate made while it still works. Replace the Key: A locksmith can create a new key based on your car’s lock or key code. Upgrade to a Modern Key: If you’re using an older mechanical key, consider upgrading to a transponder key or key fob for added convenience and security. Tip: Don’t wait until your key stops working entirely. Replacing a worn key early can save you time and stress. 5. Key Fob Signal Interference Why It Happens: Sometimes, your car key fob may not respond due to signal interference from nearby electronics or a faulty antenna. How to Fix It: Move Away from Interference: Check for other devices nearby, such as Wi-Fi routers or radios, which may disrupt the signal. Inspect the Fob: Ensure the key fob’s battery is working and the buttons are functional. Reset the Key Fob: Follow your car manual’s instructions to reset or resynchronize the fob. Test the Car’s Receiver: If the problem persists, there may be an issue with your car’s signal receiver. Tip: Parking in a location free from electronic interference can help diagnose if this is the root cause. Preventing Car Key Problems: Simple Tips Taking care of your car key now can save you from bigger headaches later. Here are some quick maintenance tips: Keep Keys Clean: Avoid exposing keys to water, dirt, or chemicals. Store Spare Keys Safely: Always have a backup key in a secure and accessible place. Replace Batteries Regularly: Change key fob batteries annually to prevent unexpected failures. Inspect Your Keys: If you notice wear, cracks, or loose buttons, address the issue early. Why Addressing Car Key Problems Early Saves You Money Ignoring small car key problems can lead to more expensive repairs down the road. For example: A damaged ignition can cost far more to replace than addressing a stuck key early. Reprogramming a lost or broken key fob is more costly than simply replacing a battery. Getting a duplicate key before the original breaks ensures you’re not left stranded. By staying proactive, you can keep your car keys functioning smoothly without spending a fortune.

5 Signs Your Car Key Battery Needs Replacement – Don’t Get Locked Out!

5 Signs Your Car Key Battery Needs Replacement – Don’t Get Locked Out!

Have you ever pressed your car key fob multiple times without an immediate response? It’s frustrating, right? A drained key fob battery can cause unexpected issues, and if you don’t replace it in time, you might find yourself locked out of your car at the worst moment. Fortunately, there are some telltale signs that indicate your car key battery is running low – and replacing it is a quick and cost-effective fix. Your car key is one of the most essential accessories you use daily, yet we often overlook its maintenance. While it may seem small, the proper functioning of your key fob is crucial for your convenience and security. Here are five signs that it’s time to replace your key battery before it stops working completely. 1. Your Key Works Intermittently One of the first signs of a weakening battery is an inconsistent key fob response. If it works fine sometimes but requires multiple button presses at other times, the battery is likely running low. A new battery will restore the key’s normal sensitivity. This issue can be especially frustrating when you're in a hurry or carrying items and need your car to unlock instantly. If you notice your key fob working intermittently, don’t wait until you get locked out—replace the battery promptly. 2. The Signal Range Has Decreased A brand-new car key fob allows you to lock and unlock your vehicle from a considerable distance. If you’ve noticed that you now need to be much closer for the key to work, this is a clear sign that the battery is weakening. Modern key fobs can control your vehicle from as far as 15 meters or more. When you find yourself needing to be right next to the car for it to respond, it’s time to replace the battery. A weak signal can lead to access and ignition problems, which can be inconvenient in daily use. 3. You Need to Press the Buttons Harder A properly functioning car key should respond immediately to a simple press of a button. If you need to press harder or hold the button longer for it to work, the battery is no longer providing enough power to send a strong signal. Beyond just being inconvenient, this can also damage the key fob itself due to increased pressure on the electronic components. Replacing the battery will help you avoid additional wear and tear and ensure your key works smoothly without extra effort. 4. Your Car No Longer Recognizes the Key For vehicles with push-button start systems, the key fob must be close enough for the car to detect it. If your car struggles to recognize the key and you have to bring it closer to the dashboard or ignition button, this is a clear sign of a low battery. This can be particularly annoying on rainy days or when you’re in a hurry. A properly functioning key fob should allow seamless use of your vehicle without delays or the need to adjust its position. 5. The Key Stops Working Completely If your key fob suddenly stops working and you have ruled out other possible causes, such as a damaged circuit or faulty buttons, the battery is most likely completely drained. Before you panic and assume the key fob is broken, try replacing the battery first. It’s a simple and inexpensive solution that restores your key’s functionality in seconds. How to Replace Your Car Key Battery Changing your car key battery is usually a straightforward task that only requires a small screwdriver and a new CR2032 battery. Locate the seam along the key fob’s edge and carefully pry it open. Remove the old battery and observe its position, then insert the new battery in the same orientation. In less than five minutes, your key will work like new again. There’s no need to spend money on a replacement key when a battery swap is a quick and affordable fix. Don’t Wait Until It’s Too Late! Preventative maintenance is key to avoiding unnecessary hassles. If your key is showing signs of weakness, don’t ignore them! Replace the battery in time and ensure your vehicle operates flawlessly.

What You Need To Know About BMW  Swirl Flaps and How To Solve The Problem With Them

What You Need To Know About BMW Swirl Flaps and How To Solve The Problem With Them

Swirl flaps are a BMW system that has been introduced to help burn the fuel mixture in the cylinder better due to the fact that diesel engines do not have throttle valves and it is not possible to adjust the air-fuel ratio. A diesel engine without vortex valves operates between a poor and a rich fuel mixture, because the only way to regulate it is through fuel injection. Design of the first generation swirl flaps that are made of made of metal. Unfortunately, swirl flaps are responsible for countless damaged engines and costly repairs due to design errors or metal fatigue. Once damaged, the cylinder sucks them in and causes great damage. This is how damaged valves damage the cylinder. Typical swirl flaps suction damage. The vortex valves are positioned in the inlet and are controlled by vacuum (DDE 4.0) or electrically (DDE5.0 / DDE6.4) by the engine ECU. Effects of malfunctioning valves: Swirl valves are stuck in open position: Deterioration of exhaust gas performance at lower speeds. Swirl valves are stuck in closed position: Approximate power loss of 10% at high engine speeds. How swirl flaps work: Performance characteristics: The vortex valves are in the closed position, at low engine speeds and small amounts of fuel injected (controlled by the ECU card). They open under the following conditions: coolant temperature <14 ° C OR * fuel quantity> 24 mg OR engine speed 2250 rpm OR inlet air temperature <-5 ° C BMW and Pierburg have decided to produce diesel engines with metal vortex valves. The speed at which the pistons in the diesel engine operate is at least 60 rpm, so a sucked vortex valve will break and cause a number of damages inside the engine. In most cases, one or more pistons are severely damaged, as a bonus you get valves, in some cases a head or turbocharger. And this combination with a BMW engine is like a cumulative jackpot 🙂 In 2004, BMW began work on the problem and improved the design, however, a number of owners reported ongoing problems in this area. The solution to this problem is by removing the vortex valves and plugging, which does not affect the performance of the engine and at the same time, you can safely pass the exhaust test. Engines: M47 (136hp VP44 fuel pump) has no valves. M47N common rail engine (including M47N / M47TU / M47TUD20) (150hp. Face lift model from 2001 -) has valves. M57 engines (M57D) (525d & 187hp. 330d) cars with manual transmission do not have valves, but those with automatic have. M57N engines (M57TUD) (525d & 330d 204hp) have vortex valves. Ruined swirl flaps: The plugs that replace the vortex valves are easy to find on the internet, but you can also find them here on our website. Typical plugs: Disassembly of vortex valves: The vortex valves can be safely dismantled and in most cases if they are removed properly no loss of power is felt. Final list of models for which vortex valves are installed: Engine: M47N/M47TU/M47TUD20 Applications: * 110 kW (148 hp) and 330 N·m (243 lb·ft) o E46 320d 2001-2005 o E83 X3 2.0d (up to end of 2006) Engine: M47TU2D20 The engine was updated again in 2004 as the M47TU2D20. Still at 1995 cc, it produced more power across the range. Applications: * 120 kW (161 hp) and 340 N·m (251 lb·ft) E60/E61 520d E87 120d E90/E91 320d E83 X3 2.0d (end of 2006 onwards) Engine: M57/M57D25 M57D25 was introduced in 2000. Applications: * 166 PS (122 kW; 164 hp) at 4000 rpm, 350 N·m (260 lb·ft) at 2000-2500 rpm with a 4750 rpm redline, models: 2000-2003 E39 525d *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY* Engine: M57N/M57TU/M57TUD25 M57TUD25 was introduced in 2004. Applications: * 177 PS (130 kW; 175 hp) at 4000 rpm, 400 N·m (300 lb·ft) at 2000-2750 rpm models: E60/E61 525d Engine: M57/M57D30 M57D30, also called M57D29, was introduced in 1998. Applications: * 184 PS (135 kW; 181 hp)@4000, 390 N·m (290 lb·ft)@1750-3200 models: E39 530d *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY* E46 330d/330xd *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY* * 184 PS (135 kW; 181 hp)@4000, 410 N·m (300 lb·ft)@2000-3000 models: E38 730d *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY* E53 X5 3.0d * 193 PS (142 kW; 190 hp)@4000, 410 N·m (300 lb·ft)@1750-3000 models: E38 730d E39 530d Engine: M57N/M57TU/M57TUD30 M57TUD30 was introduced in 2002. It originally produced 160 kW (215 hp) at 4000 rpm and 500 N·m (370 lb·ft) at 2000-2750 rpm, but was tweaked for 150 kW (201 hp) at 4000 rpm and 410 N·m (300 lb·ft) at 1500-3250 rpm for 2003 and again for 200 kW (268 hp) at 4000 rpm and 560 N·m (410 lb·ft) at 2000-2250 rpm in 2004. Applications: * 204 PS (150 kW; 201 hp)@4000, 410 N·m (300 lb·ft)@1500-3250 models: E46 330d/330Cd/330xd E83 X3 3.0d * 218 PS (160 kW; 215 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2750 models: E53 X5 3.0d E60/E61 530d/530xd E65 730d * 272 PS (200 kW; 268 hp)@4000, 560 N·m (410 lb·ft)@2000-2250 E60/E61 535d * 245 PS (180 kW; 242 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2250 * 286 PS (210 kW; 282 hp)@4000, 580 N·m (430 lb·ft)@2000-2250 Engine: M57TU2D30 M57TU2D30 was introduced in 2007, making its debut in the facelifted E60 and E61. * M57TU2D30-UL: 197 PS (145 kW; 194 hp) * M57TU2D30-OL: 235 PS (173 kW; 232 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2750 * M57TU2D30-TOP: 286 PS (210 kW; 282 hp), 580 N·m (430 lb·ft) Applications: * 197 PS (145 kW; 194 hp), 400 N·m (300 lb·ft) models: E90/E91/E92 325d E60/E61 525d/525xd * 231 PS (170 kW; 228 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2750 models: E65 730d E90/E91 325d E90/E91 330d/330xd * 235 PS (173 kW; 232 hp) models: E60/E61, BMW E70, BMW E71 * 286 PS (210 kW; 282 hp), 580 N·m (430 lb·ft) models: E60/E61 535d E70 X5 3.0sd E71 X6 xDrive35d E83 X3 3.0sd E90/E91 335d The above models are listed for information only if you want to to make sure your engine has valves installed, please contact a competent person. Please note that the information described above is for informational purposes only and does not claim to be reliable. Mr-key.com is not responsible for any repair work you undertake that is related to the topic described in this article.

What You Need To Know About BMW  Swirl Flaps and How To Solve The Problem With Them

What You Need To Know About BMW  Swirl Flaps and How To Solve The Problem With Them

Swirl flaps are a BMW system that has been introduced to help burn the fuel mixture in the cylinder better due to the fact that diesel engines do not have throttle valves and it is not possible to adjust the air-fuel ratio. A diesel engine without vortex valves operates between a poor and a rich fuel mixture, because the only way to regulate it is through fuel injection. Design of the first generation swirl flaps that are made of made of metal. Unfortunately, swirl flaps are responsible for countless damaged engines and costly repairs due to design errors or metal fatigue. Once damaged, the cylinder sucks them in and causes great damage. This is how damaged valves damage the cylinder. Typical swirl flaps suction damage. The vortex valves are positioned in the inlet and are controlled by vacuum (DDE 4.0) or electrically (DDE5.0 / DDE6.4) by the engine ECU. Effects of malfunctioning valves: Swirl valves are stuck in open position: Deterioration of exhaust gas performance at lower speeds. Swirl valves are stuck in closed position: Approximate power loss of 10% at high engine speeds. How swirl flaps work: Performance characteristics: The vortex valves are in the closed position, at low engine speeds and small amounts of fuel injected (controlled by the ECU card). They open under the following conditions: coolant temperature <14 ° C OR * fuel quantity> 24 mg OR 2. engine speed 2250 rpm OR 3. inlet air temperature <-5 ° C. BMW and Pierburg have decided to produce diesel engines with metal vortex valves. The speed at which the pistons in the diesel engine operate is at least 60 rpm, so a sucked vortex valve will break and cause a number of damages inside the engine. In most cases, one or more pistons are severely damaged, as a bonus you get valves, in some cases a head or turbocharger. And this combination with a BMW engine is like a cumulative jackpot 🙂 In 2004, BMW began work on the problem and improved the design, however, a number of owners reported ongoing problems in this area. The solution to this problem is by removing the vortex valves and plugging, which does not affect the performance of the engine and at the same time, you can safely pass the exhaust test. Engines: M47 (136hp VP44 fuel pump) has no valves. M47N common rail engine (including M47N / M47TU / M47TUD20) (150hp. Face lift model from 2001 -) has valves. M57 engines (M57D) (525d & 187hp. 330d) cars with manual transmission do not have valves, but those with automatic have. M57N engines (M57TUD) (525d & 330d 204hp) have vortex valves. Ruined swirl flapss: The plugs that replace the vortex valves are easy to find on the internet, but you can also find them here on our website. Typical plugs: Disassembly of vortex valves: The vortex valves can be safely dismantled and in most cases if they are removed properly no loss of power is felt. Final list of models for which vortex valves are installed: Engine: M47N/M47TU/M47TUD20 Applications: * 110 kW (148 hp) and 330 N·m (243 lb·ft) o E46 320d 2001-2005 o E83 X3 2.0d (up to end of 2006) Engine: M47TU2D20 The engine was updated again in 2004 as the M47TU2D20. Still at 1995 cc, it produced more power across the range. Applications: * 120 kW (161 hp) and 340 N·m (251 lb·ft) E60/E61 520d E87 120d E90/E91 320d E83 X3 2.0d (end of 2006 onwards) Engine: M57/M57D25 M57D25 was introduced in 2000. Applications: * 166 PS (122 kW; 164 hp) at 4000 rpm, 350 N·m (260 lb·ft) at 2000-2500 rpm with a 4750 rpm redline, models: 2000-2003 E39 525d *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY* Engine: M57N/M57TU/M57TUD25 M57TUD25 was introduced in 2004. Applications: * 177 PS (130 kW; 175 hp) at 4000 rpm, 400 N·m (300 lb·ft) at 2000-2750 rpm models: E60/E61 525d Engine: M57/M57D30 M57D30, also called M57D29, was introduced in 1998. Applications: * 184 PS (135 kW; 181 hp)@4000, 390 N·m (290 lb·ft)@1750-3200 models: E39 530d *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY* E46 330d/330xd *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY* * 184 PS (135 kW; 181 hp)@4000, 410 N·m (300 lb·ft)@2000-3000 models: E38 730d *Vehicles With Automatic Transmission ONLY* E53 X5 3.0d * 193 PS (142 kW; 190 hp)@4000, 410 N·m (300 lb·ft)@1750-3000 models: E38 730d E39 530d Engine: M57N/M57TU/M57TUD30 M57TUD30 was introduced in 2002. It originally produced 160 kW (215 hp) at 4000 rpm and 500 N·m (370 lb·ft) at 2000-2750 rpm, but was tweaked for 150 kW (201 hp) at 4000 rpm and 410 N·m (300 lb·ft) at 1500-3250 rpm for 2003 and again for 200 kW (268 hp) at 4000 rpm and 560 N·m (410 lb·ft) at 2000-2250 rpm in 2004. Applications: * 204 PS (150 kW; 201 hp)@4000, 410 N·m (300 lb·ft)@1500-3250 models: E46 330d/330Cd/330xd E83 X3 3.0d * 218 PS (160 kW; 215 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2750 models: E53 X5 3.0d E60/E61 530d/530xd E65 730d * 272 PS (200 kW; 268 hp)@4000, 560 N·m (410 lb·ft)@2000-2250 E60/E61 535d * 245 PS (180 kW; 242 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2250 * 286 PS (210 kW; 282 hp)@4000, 580 N·m (430 lb·ft)@2000-2250 Engine: M57TU2D30 M57TU2D30 was introduced in 2007, making its debut in the facelifted E60 and E61. * M57TU2D30-UL: 197 PS (145 kW; 194 hp) * M57TU2D30-OL: 235 PS (173 kW; 232 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2750 * M57TU2D30-TOP: 286 PS (210 kW; 282 hp), 580 N·m (430 lb·ft) Applications: * 197 PS (145 kW; 194 hp), 400 N·m (300 lb·ft) models: E90/E91/E92 325d E60/E61 525d/525xd * 231 PS (170 kW; 228 hp)@4000, 500 N·m (370 lb·ft)@2000-2750 models: E65 730d E90/E91 325d E90/E91 330d/330xd * 235 PS (173 kW; 232 hp) models: E60/E61, BMW E70, BMW E71 * 286 PS (210 kW; 282 hp), 580 N·m (430 lb·ft) models: E60/E61 535d E70 X5 3.0sd E71 X6 xDrive35d E83 X3 3.0sd E90/E91 335d The above models are listed for information only if you want to to make sure your engine has valves installed, please contact a competent person. Please note that the information described above is for informational purposes only and does not claim to be reliable. Mr-key.com is not responsible for any repair work you undertake that is related to the topic described in this article.

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